URGENT need help! Correcting 2011 Mustang.

R

RusWolf

New member
Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone!
My first time doing full paint correction however i have read alot and watched alot of videos prior to doing this.
However, i am running into some issues.

I am using a long throw 15mm Maxshine M15 polisher. Mequires M105 and M205 with lake country Orange pads.
I am NOT getting the result i wanted, basically i had my hood repainted at the body shop and obviously i have alot of swirls and holograms on the whole car because the shop decided to do me a favor and poliah my whole car with a rotary.

Not only am i not getting rid of the swirls and holograms i feel like i just created few more holograms.
I am working on a small section of the hood. Also my orange pad turned black.. the car IS black and I believe a single stage color Ford black code UA.

can someone PLEASE tell what am i doing wrong here?!
 
How long ago was the car repainted? If it is single stage paint it is normal to see your pad change to the color of the paint as you are removing paint while polishing.
 
lane5515 said:
How long ago was the car repainted? If it is single stage paint it is normal to see your pad change to the color of the paint as you are removing paint while polishing.
Click to expand...

The car was painted in the fall.. so its been good 6 month at least.

Here are some pics.

00910cfdfcbbd756312e4ed4829a7166.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
f523b32c5533831c68f939c8196d165f.jpg
 
Are those pictures after 105 and an orange pad? If so, that looks like hazing left from the 105. Try 205 with a white pad and see if the haze is removed.
 
lane5515 said:
Are those pictures after 105 and an orange pad? If so, that looks like hazing left from the 105. Try 205 with a white pad and see if the haze is removed.
Click to expand...

Thats orange pad after 105 and 205.
My noob butt didn’t purchase a white pad.
I have orange, blue and black.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Do you guys suggest ordering white pad and wait until than?
Also, is white pad more aggressive than orange pad?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Orange is more aggressive than white. I don't use 105 or 205 so someone else that uses those two products might have better suggestions for moving forward. Do you have any other polishes besides 105/205?
 
It shouldn't be single stage on a 2011. You said the hood was repainted, if your getting black from other parts of the car that are factory paint something isn't right. Did you clay the car? Is the entire face of the pad covered in black?
 
DaveT435 said:
It shouldn't be single stage on a 2011. You said the hood was repainted, if your getting black from other parts of the car that are factory paint something isn't right. Did you clay the car? Is the entire face of the pad covered in black?
Click to expand...

Yes i clayed the car and used iron remover as well.. it was probably 70% of the pad got black.

I also have ultimate compound.
Which seems to make the paint shine..
but it seems like i am NOT going anywhere with the swirls.. I’m confused


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
By the way:
Is there a way to determine if i burned through a clearcoat?
Also, would that even be possible with a DA long throw?
I do not remember standing at 1 spot.

I checked the area and all looks shiny.. and swirly under LED spot light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Try M205 and your black pad on a section thats already been worked with 105/orange.
 
Paul A is correct, 205 on the black bad. I'm assuming the hood was repainted due to the TSB where the aluminum hood bonded to the steel hood frame due to improper priming done by Ford and corrosion/chemical reaction between the improper primed parts started? The TSB called for repainting or replacing the hoods on 2005 - 2014 Mustangs due to the defect. I'm holding my breath that my 2005 doesn't develop this issue...

Regardless, I have worked on several Mustangs with this issue, including Black ones. The fact is you're using the same color pad (orange) to cut and polish? That may be your problem. Second problem is the respray may be a bit on the soft side. You need to water down your 205.

Cut with the 105, using a somewhat aggressive pad. If it was a respray, odds are they laid down a heavy base and clear coat. Then refine with the 205. The paint is probably super soft, so try the black pad, put a few drops of 205 on it, then rinse it off in water (distilled preferably). Make sure you ring out the pad so it's not dripping and can cause sling. Using a spray bottle filled with distilled water spray the hood, and start doing your section passes with black pad. (Same pad you rinsed and rung...) Do not apply more 205. Since 205 is SMAT, it will continue working in a watered down state.

Make sure you use the softest, highest, cleanest quality towels to wipe with. You may pre-treat them with some ONR or Rinsless Wash to soften the towel before you wipe.

I suspect you are dealing with super soft paint, and are marring it as you're polishing it. After you get it cleaned up as much as you can, go get a full frontal of Clear Bra. This will hide the blems and protect this super-soft paint.
 
LSNAutoDetailing said:
Paul A is correct, 205 on the black bad. I'm assuming the hood was repainted due to the TSB where the aluminum hood bonded to the steel hood frame due to improper priming done by Ford? The TSB called for repainting or replacing the hoods on 2005 - 2014 Mustangs due to the defect.
Click to expand...

Yes that was the reason for the hood repaint.
When did they come out with that TSB?
Last when i was getting something done at the dealer like 1-1,5 years ago they had no recall/TSB to repaint hoods and pretty much to me unless there is a hole in the hood Ford unfortunately would not cover it under corrosion warranty.

Basically i had to repaint the hood on my own dime.

Should i call and ask the body shop if they painted it as a single stage or as base color plus clear separately?

Yes i was using 1 new orange pad for 105 and 1 new pad for 205.

BTW i was NOT able to replicate the paint on the pad again in the same spot.
So i hope I didn’t burn anything, otherwise if i did my pad would be black every time i go over that spot right?

Ok i will take your pointers and will go to town again next weekend!
Thank you!

If you have more suggestions on how to be more efficient and get results i’m all ears!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Like LSN mentioned, your paint is probably very soft. Use a black finishing pad with the 205 and water it down as LSN mentioned. If that still doesnt work try out a bottle of menzerna 3500 or 3800 with a black pad. I recently had an issue with very soft paint on my black car and found that the menzerna 3500 had enough cut to remove moderate swirls and finish down very nicely. Good luck !

And yes, if you burnt through the paint then it would turn black after every pass in the suspected area. maybe there was some form of contamination that you missed?

-James
 
Thank you for replies guys!

I will try that water-down method..
Also, about the pad: I am using Lake Country light orange pad that i ordered from amazon (3 pack).
Are they enough of a pad for the job or should i get something more aggressive such as a yellow pad?

@LSNAutoDetailing: What's an ONR? I have CG V07 quick detailer, would that work?
So basically put 2-3 drops on the pads, work them into the pad, run through distilled water.

By ring out do you mean like squeeze it few times or blow compressed air on it?

BTW: After each pass to clean out pads i use air compressor and spun the pad on the machine by air.
And black marring washed off pretty easily from the pad by way of warm water and soap.


@james751993: Yes hopefully it was just dirt from the paint or something and not actually burned paint... I know i tried to replicated it in the same area and could not.. Also visually by eye I do not see any blemishes.. I assume i would be able to notice burned clear/paint?
 
Guys ok i’m back to polishing..

Well i think i burned through clear on one of the “ribs” have not idea how it happened. I was trying to remove a small scratch on it and was moving the polisher horizontal and than vertical.. small section probably around 8x8....
here is a picture. If you guys can see it.


Also! Can someone PLEASE tell why does it look like the pad is not rotating in circles when polishing vertical panel such as a door?
Thanks!

6def6a6a5d75ddbf85eb943bd4834e6e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another shot.

Is that a burn through clearcoat?

9facd5a788934d0b63b0099349f47478.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
RSAUTOSPA said:
from the picture it looks like burn through clearcoat.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
Well since I messed up, blame is on me.
Other than painting the whole panel.
Is there a way to fix it?
If not.. is there anything i can do to make it A) less obvious B) Protect what is exposed now?
Thank you.

Also.. why is the polisher doesn’t look like its spinning when polishing the door or any other vertical panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
RusWolf said:
Thank you!
Well since I messed up, blame is on me.
Other than painting the whole panel.
Is there a way to fix it?
If not.. is there anything i can do to make it A) less obvious B) Protect what is exposed now?
Thank you.

Also.. why is the polisher doesn’t look like its spinning when polishing the door or any other vertical panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You can put a coating on it. That would hold it temporarily. Since no moisture or anything got under the edges of the clear coat depending on the coating you might get a year before those edges start lifting. Where are your located? If you were in the DFW area I could help you out, both with the coating and/or painting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top