Anyone Paint Corrected a Nissan Leaf before?

Maestro Sam

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2015
Messages
386
Reaction score
0
Just got a 2016 Black Nissan Leaf and trying to figure out the best combination pads/polish to correct the paint. I did some test spots but after removing most of the defects, small scratches still remain. I have used the lightest pads/polishes that I have with no avail. I will be probably do more test spots with different pads/polish but if anyone wants to chime in, that will help! Does this vehicle have self-healing paint?
Thanks
 
When you say small scratches still remain... are you referring to straight line scratches or marring? Do you have before/after pics to share?
 
the black nissan paint is super duper soft. What pad, speed, product are you using? Try a speed 2-3 on the lightest pad and about 3 section passes with almost no pressure.
 
the black nissan paint is super duper soft. What pad, speed, product are you using? Try a speed 2-3 on the lightest pad and about 3 section passes with almost no pressure.

I have dealth with Nissan black paints but the paint on the leaf is extra extra super soft. I am using a finishing pad with menzerna sf4500. I am using speeds 5 with moderate pressure to remove water spots and scratches then for the last couple pass, I bring it down to 3 with little pressure. Like you suggested, I will try putting no pressure.

When you say small scratches still remain... are you referring to straight line scratches or marring? Do you have before/after pics to share?

Straight line scratches, I will try and get some pictures tommorow!
 
Straight line scratches? Is your finger nail catching any of these scratches? Even if your nail isn't catching them, you may need a more aggressive pad/polish combination. While SF4500 is a great polish, it really doesn't have much cut. Do you have any FF3000 or FG400? What polisher are you using?

Sent via my mobile device...
 
If you still have straight line scratches remaining, then you're not being aggressive enough with your defect removal process. You have stated that you are using SF4500 and a finishing pad, so you really can only get more aggressive as this is one of the least aggressive polishes on the market.

If your scratches are isolated to a small area, spot compound the defects and then polish afterwards to restore gloss. If the entire car is trashed and has moderate scratches (that are removable) then you will likely have to do a multi-step correction on the entire vehicle to see the results you are looking for.

In any case, here is how I would proceed.

  • Begin your testing all over again
  • Start with an area that has these scratches, and use a medium polish (if you're a menzerna fan, grab some MC 2500) on a polishing pad and see what you get
  • If there was no noticeable improvement, move up to a cutting compound and a cutting pad. If there was an improvement, but you still faintly see the scratches, perhaps just use a more aggressive pad with the same medium polish and see if that produces a better result. If the scratches are gone, mission accomplished, you have removed the scratches with the least aggressive method.
  • Once the scratches are removed, you will need to evaluate your finish. Since it has been noted that the paint you are working on is quite soft, there will likely be micro marring. Proceed by testing various finishing polishes & pads to determine the best combination to produce a clear finish.


Hope that helps
-Zach
 
Be careful of Chlorophyll. Its a real issue with the leafs. It has a tendancy to turn things green.:laughing::laughing:
 
I like Zach's approach with a more aggressive abrasive but still with a finish pad and light pressure. I would then play with some pressure if the marring remains. If the marring remains after the second test area and some pressure on the pad i would go up one pad and go at it again.
 
Straight line scratches? Is your finger nail catching any of these scratches? Even if your nail isn't catching them, you may need a more aggressive pad/polish combination. While SF4500 is a great polish, it really doesn't have much cut. Do you have any FF3000 or FG400? What polisher are you using?

Sent via my mobile device...

Figured it out. Tried no pressure with diluted polish with water and worked like a charm!
 
If you still have straight line scratches remaining, then you're not being aggressive enough with your defect removal process. You have stated that you are using SF4500 and a finishing pad, so you really can only get more aggressive as this is one of the least aggressive polishes on the market.

If your scratches are isolated to a small area, spot compound the defects and then polish afterwards to restore gloss. If the entire car is trashed and has moderate scratches (that are removable) then you will likely have to do a multi-step correction on the entire vehicle to see the results you are looking for.

In any case, here is how I would proceed.

  • Begin your testing all over again
  • Start with an area that has these scratches, and use a medium polish (if you're a menzerna fan, grab some MC 2500) on a polishing pad and see what you get
  • If there was no noticeable improvement, move up to a cutting compound and a cutting pad. If there was an improvement, but you still faintly see the scratches, perhaps just use a more aggressive pad with the same medium polish and see if that produces a better result. If the scratches are gone, mission accomplished, you have removed the scratches with the least aggressive method.
  • Once the scratches are removed, you will need to evaluate your finish. Since it has been noted that the paint you are working on is quite soft, there will likely be micro marring. Proceed by testing various finishing polishes & pads to determine the best combination to produce a clear finish.


Hope that helps
-Zach

Hey Zach, thank you so much brother I really apreciate it. I knew from the start Nissan paints were very soft. The black leaf, which I have never detailed before, had the softest paint ever with so much defects. The paint looked like it was 5 years old even though the car was a new car. I first approached it with a lc thin light cutting pad with fg400, which left a lot of swirls. Then I proceded with a lc thin finishing pad with sf4500 and left more marring. After 3 hours of test spots, I used a Rupes Yellow Pad/FG400 with slow passes. Then I proceded with a "Detailers Domain" orange pad with diluted sonax paint cleaner 1:10 water, using light/no pressure at all when correcting. The paint looks flawless and most of the defects are out !
Thank you so much for your indepth steps.
Sam

Be careful of Chlorophyll. Its a real issue with the leafs. It has a tendancy to turn things green.:laughing::laughing:

Only the EV model I heard ;) and thank god.

I like Zach's approach with a more aggressive abrasive but still with a finish pad and light pressure. I would then play with some pressure if the marring remains. If the marring remains after the second test area and some pressure on the pad i would go up one pad and go at it again.

Thanks man. I used no pressure and diluted 1:10 polish "sonax paint cleaner" and worked like a charm! Thanks for the help
 
I had a 2013 leaf come through about a year ago. Light metallic blue. Soft paint, but some of the worst hard water spots I have ever seen. paint, windows, trim, all covered in them. Spent 14 hours with my flex 3401, various pads, and all the Wolfgang products. Looked like a million bucks when I was done, but it was a LOT of work.

Glad you got it sorted out.
 
I had a 2013 leaf come through about a year ago. Light metallic blue. Soft paint, but some of the worst hard water spots I have ever seen. paint, windows, trim, all covered in them. Spent 14 hours with my flex 3401, various pads, and all the Wolfgang products. Looked like a million bucks when I was done, but it was a LOT of work.

Glad you got it sorted out.

Definitely! This car had so much water spots on the car. It was literally everywhere on the vehicle. Glad you were ablexpecting to correct it and restore it!
 
Back
Top