Camaro detailed using Chemical Guys

adamgayton81

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Definitely can't wait to see the finished product. Here's a question, my Camaro looked very close to the same with swirls. I typically use Chemical Guys products...so I started with V36 cutting compound and a medium cutting pad. The car turned out great with a gloss shine and very smooth...
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and the best show of the finish is on the trunk...
0b4da8f1756f552d7973bddf5a0be84b.jpg

I ran out of time and didn't get to polish so I just went ahead and threw wax on it and was happy. Should I have went ahead and used the V38 polish and a finishing pad and then waxed or am I ok with what I did? Oh and here's a before that was after Clay
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and after cutting
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Just to chime in...


"Yes" if it were me and I was using CG products I would have definitley finished out with their finest/best finishing polish before sealing the paint.




:)
 
So with that said, would I be safe to dish soap wash the wax off and finish polishing or what should I do? Thanks by the way.


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I know a lot of people aren't fans of chemical guys products but I like their polishes. The reason is its water based so it's a lot easier to clean up and no dusting. Their finishing polish v38 is basically the best paint cleaning polish you can find in my opinion. With v38 I would use a white polishing pad so you can really work the micro abrasives down for a very nice finish. Nothing wrong with a finishing pad but I find you'll be still working the product after about 7 passes when their products are a recommended 4 passes with pressure and 2 passes with no pressure and slower buffer speed.
 
So with that said, would I be safe to dish soap wash the wax off and finish polishing or what should I do? Thanks by the way.


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Dish soap (Dawn) will not remove all the wax and is not necessary..the polishing step will remove the wax.
 
Looking good.

As mentioned above, go back over it with the V38 and a finishing pad to really clear up the paint. Mechanical abrasion such as polishing is what removes the wax. Not dawn dish soap.
 
So just go ahead and polish, then re-wax correct?


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That's right, if you go over it with V38, you'll really see a difference in the paint. It'll pop quite nicely especially with that beautiful red. Now mind you, you don't need to do an IPA wipe down after with CG polishes as they are water based but you can. I always do because I mostly use coatings as a LSP as opposed to wax or sealants.
 
That's right, if you go over it with V38, you'll really see a difference in the paint. It'll pop quite nicely especially with that beautiful red. Now mind you, you don't need to do an IPA wipe down after with CG polishes as they are water based but you can. I always do because I mostly use coatings as a LSP as opposed to wax or sealants.

Stupid question, but if those polishes are water based, what else are you looking to remove with the IPA wipedown prior to applying a coating?
 
Well the polishes that are water based don't have the same kind of oil as say Menzerna or the others and so they're fine for wax or sealants because the little bit they leave behind in the form of a bit of polish dust and the like won't hinder LSP bonding generally. When you apply the wax or sealant, the solvents in there will remove whatever small bit of polish that might still be on there but with coatings, I use CarPro Eraser just in case. I use it also for the anti-static effect to keep the surface dust free. Coatings basically require a 100% surgical surface for them to bond, but for wax and sealants, you don't need bare paint. In fact with some sealants, it's even better to not do a IPA wipe down prior to applying it, the polishing oils left behind will encourage the oils in the sealant to bond better. Example for you is using Meguiars Ultimate Polish and then moving to Meguiars Ultimate Wax. Product synergy works better for LSP bonding than a surgical surface.
 
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