How to fix disastrous touch-up paint job

CarefulCleaner

CarefulCleaner

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I asked for some paint from my dealer, so I could touch-up my car manually, but they "took away the trouble" and did it for me---with disastrous results:
View attachment 53399

So...I've got an assortment of #1000-#3000 grit sand paper and additional touch-up paint from my dealer.

How can I make the best of this situation now? Should I paint over areas where my dealer missed, let the paint dry, then wet sand the area, until it's level with the surrounding area, then compound/polish/wax? In what order of grit should I wet sand the touch-up paint? How many layers of touch-up paint do I need?

It seems like I can also try to compound some of the other scratches that were not treated with the touch-up paint...

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. This is a 2004 Honda CR-V (single stage paint, I think, since compounding rubs off some white paint onto my applicator pads).
 
If that's factory paint, you should be able to wipe off/out the touchup with lacquer thinner, if that helps you.

Disclaimer: I haven't tried this with single-stage paint, although I believe any single-stage from that era would still be a catalyzed urethane paint and therefore chemical resistant.
 
CarefulCleaner said:
I asked for some paint from my dealer, so I could touch-up my car manually, but they "took away the trouble" and did it for me---with disastrous results:
Click to expand...

If THEY did it and you didn't approve or aren't happy, I'd make them fix it. IMO I would have them respray that bumper entirely.
 
CarefulCleaner said:
I asked for some paint from my dealer, so I could touch-up my car manually, but they "took away the trouble" and did it for me---with disastrous results:
View attachment 53399

So...I've got an assortment of #1000-#3000 grit sand paper and additional touch-up paint from my dealer.

How can I make the best of this situation now? Should I paint over areas where my dealer missed, let the paint dry, then wet sand the area, until it's level with the surrounding area, then compound/polish/wax? In what order of grit should I wet sand the touch-up paint? How many layers of touch-up paint do I need?

It seems like I can also try to compound some of the other scratches that were not treated with the touch-up paint...

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. This is a 2004 Honda CR-V (single stage paint, I think, since compounding rubs off some white paint onto my applicator pads).
Click to expand...

Is this your Honda Dealer or a Dealer from which you bought the car? In any event, the car is 12 years old.
 
CarefulCleaner said:
I asked for some paint from my dealer, so I could touch-up my car manually, but they "took away the trouble" and did it for me---with disastrous results:
View attachment 53399

So...I've got an assortment of #1000-#3000 grit sand paper and additional touch-up paint from my dealer.

How can I make the best of this situation now? Should I paint over areas where my dealer missed,Yes let the paint dry,Yes[/COLOR] then wet sand the area, Yesuntil it's level with the surrounding area,Yes then compound/polish/wax?Yes In what order of grit should I wet sand the touch-up paint?Start with 1000, 1500 and finish with 3000 How many layers of touch-up paint do I need?This is where most fail..do light coats and let dry for at least 24 hrs between coats. Build up until slightly higher than the surrounding area.

It seems like I can also try to compound some of the other scratches that were not treated with the touch-up paint...If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail, the scratch is too deep to be buffed out and needs touch up paint.

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. This is a 2004 Honda CR-V (single stage paint, I think, since compounding rubs off some white paint onto my applicator pads).[/QUOTE
:props:
Click to expand...
 
This is the work of *the* Honda Dealer. And yes, it's an old car, so I wanted to avoid a confrontation/claim (despite my misgivings), thinking I might as well take this opportunity to learn how to do the job right myself.

Thanks rsurfer, I will give it a try. Just still a little uncertain about when to stop layering paint and whether or not I should, as Setec Astronomy suggests, remove the paint first and start all over again, or layer upon the (factory) paint that's already been put on.
 
Dr. Colorchip should be able to give you a better color match. I would try to remove the touch up paint applied by the dealer, then apply new touch up paint that matches, then sand, buff, seal as necessary.
 
Its an easy fix if you have the right tools. You are going to at least do a blended fade and repaint the damaged area. I would never let that dealer touch the car again. There are many touchup paint suppliers that can provide you the paint.

A touchup automotive paint gun is best but there are many reallly good rattle can Arneson cans out there today. Feather sand the ares back mask and shoot it with thin layers building it up. 4-48 hours later cut and buff the area then wax it about 4-5 weeks later.

rsurfer gave you sone sound advise above.
 
You can fix this.

Don't spray any paint or you will have to clear the whole panel.

Put touch up paint in with small light coats - let dry 24 hrs between coats (not kidding here it's key). Repeat until paint is slightly above defect.

Sand with 3000 grit to level to existing paint.

If there is an edge that doesn't look right put on more paint and wait 24 hours.

Repeat the sanding step.

Compound and Polish to restore.

Care on factory finishes is advised.

Fill first and sand later to just the original level.
 
Although not sold here, you might wish to try that Langka stuff in the little bottles. Yes, the blob remover, and a little pricey, but it can often work to remove touch up paints without any harm to the original factory paint. I know, I've done such with it.

Sanding papers can be dangerous in the wrong hands. Ask me how I know.
 
Crispy said:
You can fix this.

Don't spray any paint or you will have to clear the whole panel.

Put touch up paint in with small light coats - let dry 24 hrs between coats (not kidding here it's key). Repeat until paint is slightly above defect...
Click to expand...

Thanks, very encouraging and helpful.

MarkD51 said:
Although not sold here, you might wish to try that Langka stuff in the little bottles. Yes, the blob remover, and a little pricey, but it can often work to remove touch up paints without any harm to the original factory paint. I know, I've done such with it.

Sanding papers can be dangerous in the wrong hands. Ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Please, do share. I'm trying to be as circumspect and cautious as possible, so I haven't proceeded with this wet sanding project yet. So far, the tips I've accumulated are:
- Make sure there are sufficient layers of paint
- Use 3000 grit or above
- Soak the sand paper in water for a couple of hours prior to sanding, ideally overnight
- Wrap the sand paper in a pad to apply even pressure
- Use plenty of soapy water to avoid clogging
 
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