Any tips for maxamizing iron remover supply?

Bill1234

Bill1234

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Iron remove can get expensive and it does take a decent amount in order to decontaminate a car. I usually will spray it on a lightly sprayed car and then let it dwell on a cool surface and then spread it out with a wet grout sponge. Now usually, Im doing large cuvs and suvs. That does in fact use a good amount of chemical. At 20 dollars a bottle in some cases, it can get expensive. I dont know if there is any way I can cut down on costs but hopefully there is.
 
I know a few brands say you can dilute with water. Like BDX rom 3D/HD.
But for me, if I am doing a chemical decon, it's factored into my pricing so it's covered.
 
BDX I dont think you can, I think they were going to and then they said no to doing that.


Iron x said you can but it significantly weakens the strength. The issue is im mostly doing this for a hobby, its rare im doing it for some funds but it does come from time to time.
 
You could always invest in the gallon size of one.
 
Bill1234 said:
BDX I dont think you can, I think they were going to and then they said no to doing that.


Iron x said you can but it significantly weakens the strength. The issue is im mostly doing this for a hobby, its rare im doing it for some funds but it does come from time to time.
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cut it 50/50 and let it dwell longer on the car.for severe decon straight will only do.
 
GSKR said:
cut it 50/50 and let it dwell longer on the car.for severe decon straight will only do.
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dont quote me necessarily on the iron remover from bdx. I just have had 3 bottles and none have had a dilution ratio
 
I find that you don't need a lot of iron x to get the job done. Just be careful to not over apply. IMO if you're spraying so much that it runs down the side as if the car is crying then perhaps back off on the amount you're using. It still works and does it's job.
 
Do not dilute an iron remover unless they specify to!!

Buying in bulk will save you money.

Remember, chemicals cost money. You need to know your costs in order to price your details accordingly.
 
I do agree 100 percent everything needs to be thought out. However. I do this mostly for a hobby rather than a full time business or a part time business
 
Find a local vendour and buy bulk.. it'll take a year to get through but you'll start using it as wheel cleaner weekly, and then for decontamination as and when required.

So write off your wheel cleaner cost..

With my local vendour it is 1/4 the price of 1ltr Iron-X.. (note process down under are markedly more than the US)...
 
Bill1234 said:
BDX I dont think you can, I think they were going to and then they said no to doing that.


Iron x said you can but it significantly weakens the strength. The issue is im mostly doing this for a hobby, its rare im doing it for some funds but it does come from time to time.
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I watched a video on YouTube or the 3D site and one of there reps said to use at 4:1 or just waste it by using it straight.
 
fly07sti said:
I watched a video on YouTube or the 3D site and one of there reps said to use at 4:1 or just waste it by using it straight.
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That was for the pre-release version. It is not an RTU (ready to use) product. That was a last minute change from my understanding.
 
Somehow we got by with just clay (and without clay before there was clay) for all those years before someone realized they could make money selling hair perm to detailers. Your paint isn't going to fall off if you fail to use an iron-eating chemical.
 
The Guz said:
That was for the pre-release version. It is not an RTU (ready to use) product. That was a last minute change from my understanding.
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It's possible. Now I have to go look at my McKees iron remover to see if it has any info about diluting 1:1. I believe Nick said it can't be used 1:1 even though it's not printed on the label to do so.
 
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