Hey everyone, I have a question on clear coat failure and I was curious for your thoughts.
I have a 2011 Altima that has clear coat failure on the trunk and rear bumper. There's also some on both rear passenger door handles and some may be on the verge of forming on the roof.
I'm a big noob when it comes to anything cars so I've been researching a lot lately trying to understand the problem and possible solutions. I recently took the car to a local, very reputable body shop and they estimated just doing the trunk and rear bumper would be a five day, $1500 job. I understand it's a thorough job, and Googling has made it clear that the only true solution for clear coat failure is to fully repaint the area - meaning, the $1000-$1500 job.
Since this car is mainly just transportation and not anything I'm in love with, $1500 toward the appearance just isn't happening. I don't know if I'd even spend $250 on this. I figure it's much smarter to save that for a serious, expensive engine issue if that were to unexpectedly pop up.
So in trying to find a solution, I came across this video on YouTube. If I understand what this individual did, his process was:
1. Scrub affected area with Scotch Brite Pad
2. Spray on new clear coat
I don't believe he does anything after that - no additional sanding or polishing.
However, on these forums I came across this thread where user asianisafish suggested a similar, but slightly different procedure:
1. Spray on new clear coat
2. After it hardens, sand it
Also, in this thread, I believe Mike suggests as an affordable option to just put new paint on it:
Since I don't understand the processes behind these suggestions, I was curious if anyone could elaborate on which of these options makes the most sense, and what's the best procedure for me to follow. Do I sand/scrub first or last? Should I put on clear coat or the enamel paint? Do you guys agree these are good options for fixing this problem as best as possible on a budget?
I have a 2011 Altima that has clear coat failure on the trunk and rear bumper. There's also some on both rear passenger door handles and some may be on the verge of forming on the roof.
I'm a big noob when it comes to anything cars so I've been researching a lot lately trying to understand the problem and possible solutions. I recently took the car to a local, very reputable body shop and they estimated just doing the trunk and rear bumper would be a five day, $1500 job. I understand it's a thorough job, and Googling has made it clear that the only true solution for clear coat failure is to fully repaint the area - meaning, the $1000-$1500 job.
Since this car is mainly just transportation and not anything I'm in love with, $1500 toward the appearance just isn't happening. I don't know if I'd even spend $250 on this. I figure it's much smarter to save that for a serious, expensive engine issue if that were to unexpectedly pop up.
So in trying to find a solution, I came across this video on YouTube. If I understand what this individual did, his process was:
1. Scrub affected area with Scotch Brite Pad
2. Spray on new clear coat
I don't believe he does anything after that - no additional sanding or polishing.
However, on these forums I came across this thread where user asianisafish suggested a similar, but slightly different procedure:
1. Spray on new clear coat
2. After it hardens, sand it
Also, in this thread, I believe Mike suggests as an affordable option to just put new paint on it:
You might look into the Rustoleum Roll On option if this car is just transportation to you. After rolling on a good thick coat of Rustoleum Enamel Paint you can wetsand, cut and buff the paint to look pretty darn good.
Since I don't understand the processes behind these suggestions, I was curious if anyone could elaborate on which of these options makes the most sense, and what's the best procedure for me to follow. Do I sand/scrub first or last? Should I put on clear coat or the enamel paint? Do you guys agree these are good options for fixing this problem as best as possible on a budget?