Noob question re: clear coat failure

gogiants

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Hey everyone, I have a question on clear coat failure and I was curious for your thoughts.

I have a 2011 Altima that has clear coat failure on the trunk and rear bumper. There's also some on both rear passenger door handles and some may be on the verge of forming on the roof.

I'm a big noob when it comes to anything cars so I've been researching a lot lately trying to understand the problem and possible solutions. I recently took the car to a local, very reputable body shop and they estimated just doing the trunk and rear bumper would be a five day, $1500 job. I understand it's a thorough job, and Googling has made it clear that the only true solution for clear coat failure is to fully repaint the area - meaning, the $1000-$1500 job.

Since this car is mainly just transportation and not anything I'm in love with, $1500 toward the appearance just isn't happening. I don't know if I'd even spend $250 on this. I figure it's much smarter to save that for a serious, expensive engine issue if that were to unexpectedly pop up.

So in trying to find a solution, I came across this video on YouTube. If I understand what this individual did, his process was:
1. Scrub affected area with Scotch Brite Pad
2. Spray on new clear coat
I don't believe he does anything after that - no additional sanding or polishing.

However, on these forums I came across this thread where user asianisafish suggested a similar, but slightly different procedure:
1. Spray on new clear coat
2. After it hardens, sand it

Also, in this thread, I believe Mike suggests as an affordable option to just put new paint on it:
You might look into the Rustoleum Roll On option if this car is just transportation to you. After rolling on a good thick coat of Rustoleum Enamel Paint you can wetsand, cut and buff the paint to look pretty darn good.

Since I don't understand the processes behind these suggestions, I was curious if anyone could elaborate on which of these options makes the most sense, and what's the best procedure for me to follow. Do I sand/scrub first or last? Should I put on clear coat or the enamel paint? Do you guys agree these are good options for fixing this problem as best as possible on a budget?
 
For $1,500 on a 2011 Nissan Altima he better be painting the whole dang car... Anything much more than that and it's nearing show car quality results or else... [and I'm talking bout the entire car].

I don't really like most paint guys. A few years ago I had a Cadillac that needed just the hood, fenders, and front bumper painted to match the original pearl white paint on the rest of the car... I took his original estimate home to look at over lunch, and I myself was able to knock off over $700 of unnecessary stuff from his estimate.. And I knew little to nothing about that type of work. Lol.

In the end I paid $1,700 but it was a very reputable shoppe and they matched it perfectly. But dang they sure try to get over on people.


Sent from my iPhone
 
You may want to check out other paint and body shops.

I had a front bumper painted on a '94 Camry for about $150 by a reputable paint and body shop in town and they did a good job.

They quoted me $1600 for the whole car - base coat/clear coat.
 
That's an absolutley ridiculous quote.

My buddy just bought a 2002 LS-6 Trans Am and had it repainted by a really good guy and he paid $2,500. He's done a few cars for him before and I've seen the work. He does a first class job. I have pics of the whole process but not going to post. He took body panels, bumpers off, straightened lines, trim etc. And he did this whole job in three days. I'll be going to see him Saturday to inspect the paint job.

 
Not too long ago I was outside getting in my car when some dude pulled up [my neighbors brother, who I had never met before] and asked me if I was interested in getting my hood and fender painted to match the rest of the car... Just out of curiosity I asked how much? He said "I could probably hook you up for $700"... I nearly laughed in his face. Lol. I thought to myself, "hell I only paid $1,000 for the whole car, and you think I'm interested paying you $700 to slap some low quality paint on my front end? Especially after I've already got the current original paint on the panels 100% corrected? Heck no!

I just told him, "it's ok, I kinda like my 2 tone Cadillac"

8cb09c7fbcdff9f9a491ac68c7690912.jpg


$700 bucks to paint my hood & fenders... What a clown. Lol. I should've offered to charge him $700 for a quik 1 step in return. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone
 
That's an absolutley ridiculous quote.

My buddy just bought a 2002 LS-6 Trans Am and had it repainted by a really good guy and he paid $2,500. He's done a few cars for him before and I've seen the work. He does a first class job. I have pics of the whole process but not going to post. He took body panels, bumpers off, straightened lines, trim etc. And he did this whole job in three days. I'll be going to see him Saturday to inspect the paint job.


Wow He did all that in 3 days?! They had my car for nearly a month! Smh.
Looks great.
 
Man I wouldn't pay any less than 2k for a high quality respray.

OP, if it does not bother you at all, leave it be. As the doc says..."if it aint broke..dont fix it."

One the other hand, if you really would like to "improve".....PlastiDip it.
 
Wow He did all that in 3 days?! They had my car for nearly a month! Smh.
Looks great.

It was during the holidays and it was slow so he and his crew could knock it out. The guy does amazing work for a more than fair price.

He had the paint body work done, installed new drilled, slotted rotors, new break lines, pads etc. and the sweet wheels and new rubber all done in about 3 weeks.
 
Man I wouldn't pay any less than 2k for a high quality respray.
.

True. Anything less and you can almost always expect to be disappointed in the quality all around.. But for that money it outta be going towards a real nice vehicle, i.e. a garage queen instead of a daily driver.



Sent from my iPhone
 
What`s a garage queen? Lol. I am that guy who would daily drive one of those nasty twin turbo ed R8`s or Lambo`s from Underground Racing if I could afford to buy one.
 
What`s a garage queen? Lol. I am that guy who would daily drive one of those nasty twin turbo ed R8`s or Lambo`s from Underground Racing if I could afford to buy one.

Yea but when you got back home, you'd at least park the dang thing in the garage. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone
 
Googling has made it clear that the
only true solution for clear coat failure
is to fully repaint the area...
^^^ :iagree: ^^^

Anything short of a re-spray
is just an exercise in futility.


Bob
 
Thanks for the replies guys, but as stated in the original post, I don't think I'd even consider spending $250 on this. Even if I shopped around for another shop that would do a 100% legit quality paint job for $1000 or even $500, I don't think I'd do it.

Anyone have any thoughts on if any of the budget options I mentioned would work?

EDIT: I guess for $250 Maaco might be able to paint the affected areas, but from my research, it sounds like spraying paint on clear coat failure is the dumbest thing to do. Hence the other options I was looking at in the original post.
 
That's an absolutley ridiculous quote.

My buddy just bought a 2002 LS-6 Trans Am and had it repainted by a really good guy and he paid $2,500. He's done a few cars for him before and I've seen the work. He does a first class job. I have pics of the whole process but not going to post. He took body panels, bumpers off, straightened lines, trim etc. And he did this whole job in three days. I'll be going to see him Saturday to inspect the paint job.


it also depends on where this guy lives, u live in florida i think things are cheaper in general then say new york
 
To answer your question OP, you sand both before and after.

Before to remove old decaying paint and provide a good surface for the primer to bond to.

Next step is to prime with sandable filler primer.

This provides a smooth surface and a good bonding base for the coloured paint (you can sand the primer too after 30 minutes).

Finally spray at least 2 coats single stage paint that matches your current colour.

After 24 hrs wet sand if you like and compound to return shine.

Costs:

Wet/dry assorted sandpaper $10.00

1-2 cans primer $10.00/can

2-3 cans single stage paint $12.00/can

$40.00-$60.00 plus elbow grease.

Can be done in 4-6 hours.

This is a quick down and dirty job.

If you want to do bodyshop quality that's an entirely different ball game.
 
To answer your question OP, you sand both before and after.

Before to remove old decaying paint and provide a good surface for the primer to bond to.

Next step is to prime with sandable filler primer.

This provides a smooth surface and a good bonding base for the coloured paint (you can sand the primer too after 30 minutes).

Finally spray at least 2 coats single stage paint that matches your current colour.

After 24 hrs wet sand if you like and compound to return shine.

Costs:

Wet/dry assorted sandpaper $10.00

1-2 cans primer $10.00/can

2-3 cans single stage paint $12.00/can

$40.00-$60.00 plus elbow grease.

Can be done in 4-6 hours.

This is a quick down and dirty job.

If you want to do bodyshop quality that's an entirely different ball game.

So for clear coat failure, you recommend applying new paint to the affected areas, as opposed to a new layer of clear coat?
 
it also depends on where this guy lives, u live in florida i think things are cheaper in general then say new york

I don't think that is true at all when it comes to quality body work.

My buddy has resoted numerous project cars and he's gotten quotes all over th epalce, but i'm not going to take the time to post all the jibberish. Suffice it to say he found a guy who does quality work at a reasonable price.
 
Please see the below excerpt
from your OP:


IMG_20841.JPG



Bob

Yeah but can you elaborate why any remedy short of a full repaint is an exercise in futility? What does that mean? We're not talking a showroom car here, we're talking just transportation. There's absolutely no affordable option to make it look better? I get that a full repaint is the best choice, but why? Help me understand why applying a new layer of paint or clear coat isn't a good enough affordable solution, especially when the other individuals I linked to in the original post suggest that they are?
 
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