Drying Agent - Why Not?

Route246

Route246

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For those who have a daily driver that gets washed weekly or semi-weekly, is there any reason why you would not use a drying agent and just wipe the rinse water with a dry towel?

Let me characterize a drying agent. Any quick detailer, spray wax, diluted rinseless wash, etc. qualifies.

I use ONR+W and OCW as drying agents. There are many alternatives.

The advantages?

1. Breakdown the surface tension of water, less water streaking
2. Increased absorption of the MF towel
3. Lubricate the surface
4. If spray wax is included provide an extra layer of protection
5. Clean any remaining residue or contaminates that the wash may have missed

I don't see many disadvantages other than additional cost (negligible), additional time (a few minutes, perhaps?), overspray onto glass. I don't believe it adds "too many layers of wax" on the paint. Others?

Since I started using spray wax my paint is always pristine and brilliant on Monday mornings after a wash on the weekends. I clay and apply paste wax (476s or Fuzion) about every six months.
 
The downside is that the drying agent will be a 'topper' for your underlying LSP. So if you like your current LSP you may not want to cover it up.
 
I, for one, would never begin
to wipe rinse-water from any
vehicle using a dry towel.


Bob
 
I use a damp WW MF Towel to dry my ride. I use no Detail/Spray Wax Spray as my drying agent. It took me a while to find out about how to dry a vehicle (for me at least), and the damp WW MF Towel technique is what I prefer. Save a lot of headaches too!

Your drying technique may be different and I say whatever technique you use is probably a good one!
 
boomdone said:
The downside is that the drying agent will be a 'topper' for your underlying LSP. So if you like your current LSP you may not want to cover it up.
Click to expand...

What about using a drying agent that is not a topper? ONR or quick detailer without the wax or sealant, for example?
 
I have gotten lazy and stopped using a drying aid. It really isn't that difficult or time consuming to grab some D156 or QD.

I do dry very gently on my RX330 and Sienna and I haven't seen any toweling marring on clear coat. I do use a drying aid on the Trans Am.
 
I use a WW method, so need need for drying agents for me.
Just use a D156 XPress spray wax after the WW and good for another 1-2 weeks.

However, if I did need to do traditional wash of my car... I would use NO drying agent... and my intent would be to put on a new Sealant/Wax after the wash.
 
Route246 said:
What about using a drying agent that is not a topper? ONR or quick detailer without the wax or sealant, for example?
Click to expand...

Yea that should work just fine. Would make sure the QD doesn't have anything in it or at least something that would wear off relatively quickly.
 
Depends on what's on top of your paint.

Coating? Use ECH2O or Aqua WW as your drying aid. Final buff adds SiO2.
 
I just washed and dried my car using an aid (UWW+) yesterday, and today noticed a disadvantage.

It must have been a bit windy because as I was drying the opposite side of the car overspray from the drying aid settled on the opposite side of the car and I didn't notice. I came out to my car today and noticed "water spots" from where the overspray drying aid landed on on the already dried paint.

Maybe I'm just sloppy. How can I prevent this in the future? My current technique is after final rinsing, spray the section with the drying aid, pass the towel over it, then move to a new section. As I type this I realize that perhaps the solution is to apply drying aid to the entire vehicle before starting with the towel.
 
derass said:
I just washed and dried my car using an aid (UWW+) yesterday, and today noticed a disadvantage.

It must have been a bit windy because as I was drying the opposite side of the car overspray from the drying aid settled on the opposite side of the car and I didn't notice. I came out to my car today and noticed "water spots" from where the overspray drying aid landed on on the already dried paint.

Maybe I'm just sloppy. How can I prevent this in the future? My current technique is after final rinsing, spray the section with the drying aid, pass the towel over it, then move to a new section. As I type this I realize that perhaps the solution is to apply drying aid to the entire vehicle before starting with the towel.
Click to expand...

A controlled environment is helpful to ensure a proper result. It's not always possible to use a garage or a shop of course, but cutting down on variables is paramount.

If, for example, atomized product makes its way to dry panels then think of ways to avoid over spray - hold the spray nozzle closer to the surface, reduce the size of the spray pattern, use the "stream" setting on the nozzle, spray the drying towel with product instead, use a different method of application such as a dropper bottle or a small pump sprayer (something similar to Opti-Seal). Sometimes I will put my hand in front of the the spot that is about it to be sprayed so any sort of errant particulate is caught.
 
I use N-914 as a drying aid. I chose it because I want to lubricate any dirt that may remain, as well as break the surface tension of the water, without adding any additional "Protection" at that stage. I'd rather do a second wipedown with D156 or another spray wax if I want to add protection.
 
osiapstndp said:
A controlled environment is helpful to ensure a proper result. It's not always possible to use a garage or a shop of course, but cutting down on variables is paramount.

If, for example, atomized product makes its way to dry panels then think of ways to avoid over spray - hold the spray nozzle closer to the surface, reduce the size of the spray pattern, use the "stream" setting on the nozzle, spray the drying towel with product instead, use a different method of application such as a dropper bottle or a small pump sprayer (something similar to Opti-Seal). Sometimes I will put my hand in front of the the spot that is about it to be sprayed so any sort of errant particulate is caught.
Click to expand...

If the nozzle is atomizing too much then you need to adjust it when it is windy outside. That is why I do the windows last because they get atomized over spray from the drying agent.
 
I use DuraGloss AquaWax as a drying agent. It has a ton of lubricity. It drys the vehicle streak free while providing some protection.
 
eff said:
I use DuraGloss AquaWax as a drying agent. It has a ton of lubricity. It drys the vehicle streak free while providing some protection.
Click to expand...

Exactly my sentiment using ONR+W and OCW. On white and silver paint it is streak free and provides SOME protection while providing a moderate amount of lubrication.
 
I use a drying lubricant, I can't really call it an aid as it's adding to the wetness and counterproductive out of the gate IMO. But, I start with a pat dry of the bigger panels, this usually adds plenty of wetness to the towel, so come time for final dry it's nice and damp. Before I start wipe-drying I mist the panel with a mix of CarPro Reload and ECO2o, as Reload is my topper right now.

I like this method. Makes the towel feeler slicker over the panel and refreshes my topper. 2 tasks with one towel. If there is any hazing left anywhere after, I hit those spots with a dry edge-less plush towel.
 
Just wanted to update the problem I was having with overspray.

Today after washing and the final rinse, I sprayed my drying aid all over the car before using my drying towel. That worked perfectly. Obviously there was still overspray, but because I left the car wet, it all came off with the towel; a perfect finish.
 
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