Beginner question about M105

I would get a small spray bottle and fill it with water and mist the compound when it starts to dry, otherwise your probably going to end up with a lot of dust. 105 isn't the most user friendly product. I read on here quite a while ago that putting a few drops of baby oil on the pad will extend the working time, I've never done it though. Do you have a picture of the paint you're working on? Acura paint is usually a little on the soft side. 105 is a pretty aggressive compound. Unless the paint is in really bad shape it may be a little overkill

M105 can be made to work nicely but why bother? M101 is much easier to work with.

Many other compounds are much easier to work with. Ultimate Compound, Griot's, Menzerna or Jescar... many others. You can certainly learn how to use M105 and get good results, or get something else and not have to worry about it. For what Ultimate Compound costs it's hard to beat.

I use the old Kevin Brown method whenever I use M105 i.e. cover the pad with product, work it into the pad with my fingers and then 3 pea sized dabs of product to work the section. Remembering that it's a SMAT, it doesn't break down like DAT's, therefore no real "flashing" to indicate it's done. If I need to extend the work time I spritz the panel (not the pad) with distilled water and go another 2 passes or so.

Because of the dusting issue with it I am using Ultimate Compound more often now with my Flex 3401. I still occassionally use it with my rotary.

With that said, I don't reprime the pad after a quick cleanout after the first section passes however I change pads much more frequently when using M105 and never use the same pad for more than 2 sections. I use A LOT of pads with 105.

Very difficult product. Really surprised Megs still sells it with so many better options available. I have used water, baby oil, and mixed it with 205. But what worked best for me is a switch to FG400.

try using UC. it's derived from M105 and formulated to be used by DA and/or hand and it's a notch/step down in aggressiveness. here's a thread of UC when mike use to work for megs...

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forum...ultimate+compound+derived#ciZvoCX63s7vzBp0.97

No idea why Megs hasn’t either canned it or reformulated it. Much better options out there that doesn’t need the user to try and get it to play nicely. My guess is its bodyshop stuff that wasn’t intended for detailing and thats why its still in production.

I really still question whether you need something near that aggressive. I'm sure UC would do everything you need for that particular car. It the paint trashed, of in pretty decent shape??

Gradywhite3535 said:

Hey guys thanks for the responses, I would take a picture of it but I'm not by the car. The car is in pretty good shape but has some spots that has really bad oxidation and a few scratches( not swirl scratches). I figured since the car has never been compounded or polished since I owned the car(5-7 years, it's a 03) I would hit it with 105 then 205. I may just go buy some ultimate compound and hit it with that to see if I get better results then use 105 in the bad spots where there is oxidation on top of the door by roof. I will take some pics when I'm by the car.i did hear megs 100 and 101 are more user friendly. They make too many products lol.

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is it just drying out? is this what you are meaning by saying its done being worked?>

Gradywhite3535 said:

Hi all, first time user with portrait cable 7204 DA. I'm using a orange lake country pad, speed 5 on machine, using m105. I'm working on a silver Acura TL that is very hard to see when the compound has flashed and time to stop.also working outside it's hard to see against the silver paint. It seems to dry up really fast. I know there are many variables but how many section passes with M105 is good to start out with? It seems like it flashes with only 1 or 2section passes but like I said it's hard to See. I did read that you should spritz some water or detail spray to further your working time. Also when you clean the pad with a brush on the machine and then use compressed air should you reprime the pad or just use the same amount of polish you use to do your section passes? Is there a big difference using ultimate compound to M105 with ease of use, I'm thinking I should have tried the ultimate to start out with. Thank you

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I used to use M105 for years then move on to menzerna as find it hard to control. Few years back I started to re-explore m105 and now i loved it alot more than menzerna. My product preference changes when i started to use a different pad/machine. Both are quality products, just different stroke for different folks. Whenever I read about somebody recommend another compound over M105, it is always something with a longer work time and wetter emulsion so end of the day i believe it depends on your style of polishing.

You dont really need to spritz water or detail spray to increase your work time in my opinion. M105 is meant to work fast. Just add more compound if you finish your cycle. Prime the pad with m105 if you want to lengthen the cycle and change the pad if it become saturated. One con however is the compound might have difficulty abrading harder paint before it dust. Swap to a rotary with a suitable pad will help, if not prime the pad well and immediately add pressure when polishing.

With M105 on a d/a, I short cycle it, and keep the pad well brushed out after each section.

When short cycling, I only work the compound for maybe two or three passes before wiping off. I also work it in smaller sections. Sometimes this technique requires that I compound the area a second time.

Even with that technique, I still can't use M105 in the sun.

On a rotary with a wool pad, M105 is awesome! Cuts hard and fast.

If you want almost no dusting with a heavy cut try Meguiar's D300 on Meguiar's microfiber cutting discs. Incredible. Two of the most successful high profile, high end production shops in my area usually start any cutting process with the D300/Microfiber cutting discs, and a random orbital tool.

To test whether that spot is a strike through, use a darker color microfiber and rub it with m105. It should help to see better with that paint. No point to keep polishing that spot if the clearcoat is gone. Go with M105/205 if you have the time. As for switching to ultimate compound over m105, I would stick with what I already have. imo there are meant to do the same thing even though ultimate compound has a longer work time.