Lite coatings vs. MK36 10 min paint sealant vs sealants

MrOneEyedBoh

MrOneEyedBoh

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Not looking to go down that coating lane again... I see these newish lite coatings. GYEON Can coat , cquartz Lite, PNS etc. But how do they fair against standard coatings? Same water spots? I hated them for that reason.

Maybe I can apply one and then throw a selaant on top or a wax?

What about 10 min paint sealant? Is that a lite coatii in a sense?

Then I was thinking about going back to square one... Just use a sealant or a sealant with a wax topper...

Thoughts?


It's on a new truck, so I'm thinking out loud here. Not sure what route to take...
 
I’ll let the coating guys speak for lites vs real coatings, but I’ve been using SiO2 maintenance sprays for a bit now and have experienced no spotting problems, nothing close yet. The ones I’ve tried include BF SiO2 Spray, BF Coating Booster, Pinnacle SiO2 Spray, Mother’s CMX, PA High Gloss/Cosmic Spritz/Black Wulfenite/Rapidwaxx, and a few non-AG brands.

Granted some/most of these SiO2 toppers have polymers included which could add to the spotting defense?

I do consider M37 10 Min Sealant as a SiO2 maintenance spray... Polymers and SiO2, easy application and great beading plus glassy looks.

Anyways, I wouldn’t use Sealant/wax on top of these as it defeats the biggest strength of the toppers. If anything, some of them, especially the PBMG brands seem to work well on top of sealants and even some waxes. Check to see which ones have directions that don’t much emphasis on a clean surface before use.

But again, no spotting issues in my experience with using these as standalone or toppers.
 
I really like the results I get with Polish Angel master sealant with high gloss as a topper. Its quite remarkable.

I use it on my 1995 Porsche 968, original paint. I use coatings some, but this has good durability with extreme gloss.

You use such a small amount, it is not as expensive to use as some here think.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
Not looking to go down that coating lane again... I see these newish lite coatings. GYEON Can coat , cquartz Lite, PNS etc. But how do they fair against standard coatings? Same water spots? I hated them for that reason.

Maybe I can apply one and then throw a selaant on top or a wax?

What about 10 min paint sealant? Is that a lite coatii in a sense?

Then I was thinking about going back to square one... Just use a sealant or a sealant with a wax topper...

Thoughts?


It's on a new truck, so I'm thinking out loud here. Not sure what route to take...
Click to expand...

PNS is not a coating lite. It’s a polymer sealant and a very good one. Has Coating like water behavior. CC36 is PNS on steroids.

Let me just say this and get it out of the way. If you are going to tip a coating with a wax or polymer sealant then what’s the point? The benefits of the coating have been masked. At that point stick with a sealant or wax and call it a day.

Coating lite products are going to have a closer behavior to a coating. Meaning self cleaning effect and durability.

Water spotting is going to be area dependent. I have never experienced water spotting with a coating. On the other hand I have with a coating maintenance product in C2V3.

This will answer your question on 10 min paint sealant

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Thanks guys. Reason for topping a coating would be to gain the protection of a coating as a sacrificial layer, protect better against acids, bird poop etc but have the behavior of the sealant or wax.

I get spots bad on my hood when I used a coating. The truck only moves 1-3 times a week so the water sets on the paint.

I could've sworn that years ago, when I use colli or WDGPS I had far less spotting.
 
Just a question is water spot in the sense of dust and pollen and other dirt that is the problem when they dry?

Or is it actually water spot where minerals is left on the paint and if extreme it's even etching the paint when the minerals is desolved?

Is the water spots easy to wash off or is there residue off them left? Do you have hard water where you wash?

If it's the first question answer. The problem could be your environment and the kind of airbourne dirt you have. In combo with the higher contact angle on a coatings beads that takes longer to evaporate from your paint. That makes it to accumulate more dirt during this time and when dried it looks and is more concentrated dirt spots that has the shape of a water spot. I would look at a protection product that leaves smaller beads and tight together. Then also the sheeting is important to have. Then what kind of protection this is I will let others to chaim in on. As I have not so much of experience with AGO sold products. And also have not been aware on this ability from protection that I want.

Otherwise if it's actually water spots you have. It can also be from the environment where you have a lot of fumes from vehicals that in the air transform to acid rain. And here it's also the shape of the beads that is a bigger or less of a problem. The beads is like a magnifying glass when it's hit by the sun. And the easiest would be to find a place where you have shade when the sun is at it's highest 9am to 3pm. Or as mentioned before an LSP that gives you the smallest tightest beads possible with great sheeting. And also remember that this is from the actually LSP Last Step Product water behavior you will judge it from. With coatings this can be a problem these days as many don't actually have the coating as the LSP. But rather a topper or drying aid or SiO2 car soap or rinseless wash or waterless wash that is what you have as the LSP. There are a few that leave the actually coating being what is the LSP on their paints. Some products with protection abilities in them don't alter the coating behavior. But just a little change of that can be a big difference in certain environments.

If you have hard water where you wash and maybe sprinklers that you get mist from or overspray from them from your neighbor. It's not much you can do but park the vehical at another place. Or find a LSP where fresh water spots is easier to be washed off. And same here with the beading and sheeting shapes and behavior. With washing in hard water it's a LSP killer in the longrun. This is not visual in that it's looks dirty or something. But sooner you experience that the water behavior degrading faster than it should be. And since coatings are made to be last long. This will often happens. So here it's much which minerals you have in your water. If I would have a ceramic coating and had hard water. I would use the water spot remover or an acid based cleaner every 3 months or so. To not get a to high of a build up of minerals on your paint that cloggs your coating over time. This is going to happen even if you are quick to dry when washing or not over time.
 
I was a huge fan of the Blackfire Crystal Seal when it was available as it was stupid easy to apply, looked great and did it's job. Since then, I've moved onto McKee's Hydro Blue Si02 and it's been pretty darn sweet. Hoping to apply their Paint Sealant this weekend, but I've been saying that for the last year and a half... I do have a bottle of the new Meguiars HCW to put on the wife's ride, but it's been nothing but rain and no real time with other projects and the kids.

If McKee's 37 10 min paint sealant is as good as BFCS was for me, then you'll be more than happy with it IMO.
 
SWETM said:
Just a question is water spot in the sense of dust and pollen and other dirt that is the problem when they dry?

Or is it actually water spot where minerals is left on the paint and if extreme it's even etching the paint when the minerals is desolved?

Is the water spots easy to wash off or is there residue off them left? Do you have hard water where you wash?

If it's the first question answer. The problem could be your environment and the kind of airbourne dirt you have. In combo with the higher contact angle on a coatings beads that takes longer to evaporate from your paint. That makes it to accumulate more dirt during this time and when dried it looks and is more concentrated dirt spots that has the shape of a water spot. I would look at a protection product that leaves smaller beads and tight together. Then also the sheeting is important to have. Then what kind of protection this is I will let others to chaim in on. As I have not so much of experience with AGO sold products. And also have not been aware on this ability from protection that I want.

Otherwise if it's actually water spots you have. It can also be from the environment where you have a lot of fumes from vehicals that in the air transform to acid rain. And here it's also the shape of the beads that is a bigger or less of a problem. The beads is like a magnifying glass when it's hit by the sun. And the easiest would be to find a place where you have shade when the sun is at it's highest 9am to 3pm. Or as mentioned before an LSP that gives you the smallest tightest beads possible with great sheeting. And also remember that this is from the actually LSP Last Step Product water behavior you will judge it from. With coatings this can be a problem these days as many don't actually have the coating as the LSP. But rather a topper or drying aid or SiO2 car soap or rinseless wash or waterless wash that is what you have as the LSP. There are a few that leave the actually coating being what is the LSP on their paints. Some products with protection abilities in them don't alter the coating behavior. But just a little change of that can be a big difference in certain environments.

If you have hard water where you wash and maybe sprinklers that you get mist from or overspray from them from your neighbor. It's not much you can do but park the vehical at another place. Or find a LSP where fresh water spots is easier to be washed off. And same here with the beading and sheeting shapes and behavior. With washing in hard water it's a LSP killer in the longrun. This is not visual in that it's looks dirty or something. But sooner you experience that the water behavior degrading faster than it should be. And since coatings are made to be last long. This will often happens. So here it's much which minerals you have in your water. If I would have a ceramic coating and had hard water. I would use the water spot remover or an acid based cleaner every 3 months or so. To not get a to high of a build up of minerals on your paint that cloggs your coating over time. This is going to happen even if you are quick to dry when washing or not over time.
Click to expand...
Hey so I think it's hard rain/minerals or whatever from the power plant that's close by.
 
Coating lite easy to apply. Easy as a sealant with better water behavior and can coat has that sexy hard candy gloss. Maintain with sio2 sealant if you want like gyeon cure or cp Reload. If don’t mind spending more on topping I feel kamikaze overcoat (using v1, thanks Budget!) and PA cosmic have destroyed anything I used. Good visuals and amazing hydrophobicity.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
Coating lite easy to apply. Easy as a sealant with better water behavior and can coat has that sexy hard candy gloss. Maintain with sio2 sealant if you want like gyeon cure or cp Reload. If don’t mind spending more on topping I feel kamikaze overcoat (using v1, thanks Budget!) and PA cosmic have destroyed anything I used. Good visuals and amazing hydrophobicity.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Does can coat streak easily when applying? Or is there a large-ish window to deal with those when applying? Hows the application when dealing with heat and humidity?
 
I am on my 4th coating "test" and the previous 3 had water spotting issues for me. Mostly rain water induced but occasionally an errant sprinkler head from the neighbor and our subdivision uses reclaimed water and that stuff's wicked!

I am currently testing GTechniq CSL (Crystal Serum Lite) +EXO and it is clearly better with minimizing water spotting. I still get some minor spotting but they wash right off clear. They weren't easily removed with the other 3 coatings.

I will add, I've never been a "topper" fan but that's just me.
 
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