12 month old car with good paint - what correction steps ?

stylo

stylo

New member
Joined
Oct 14, 2018
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Hi guys,

I kinda think I know what the answer to this, but would like your opinions on this.

Have a 12 month old car that I previously corrected and can-coated. Now the can coat is probably gone and there are a few swirls here and there.

I am going to correct and apply Gyeon MOHS on it but have a question on the correction. I have the Menzerna pack with:

1) 400 (heavy cut)
2) 2400 (medium polish)
3) 3500 (finish)

This pack (Menzerna 3 - Step Polishing Kit - Apex Customs)

And have the corresponding MF cut pad, polish pad, finish pad.

Being time poor, I want to get the most out of my time but at the same time want an awesome finish !

I have a feeling that I can't get away without doing a 2 step correction (2400/polish pad) and finish (3500/finish pad) but was wondering if I can skip a step ....

Can I go straight to the 3500 and see if the swirls are removed and if not, go the the 2400 and back to the 3500 (a bit of double handling).

Or should I start on and 2400 and just do it as a one step correction i.e. not finishing with the 3500.

Will the paint look OK without the 3500 finishing ?

Ps: It's a dark coloured car - Lapiz blue....
 
IMO:
Doing the obligatory “Test Spot” is
your best bet in order to fine tune
the paint correction processes.


Bob
 
Thanks Bob

Found this in my search through autogeek from Mike Phillip - all my questions have been answered - test spot like you mentioned.

YouTube
 
Do test spots as Bob mentioned.

You can try the finishing pad and SF3500. If you don't get enough cut but close try the polishing pad and the SF3500. Before you move up to the polishing or finishing pad and PF2400. It depends on the hardness of the clearcoat how aggressive combo you get away with finishing your paint. Then how deep defects you have in the paint and if it's enough for the combo that you can finishing LSP ready to level down the defects
 
SWETM said:
Do test spots as Bob mentioned.

You can try the finishing pad and SF3500. If you don't get enough cut but close try the polishing pad and the SF3500. Before you move up to the polishing or finishing pad and PF2400. It depends on the hardness of the clearcoat how aggressive combo you get away with finishing your paint. Then how deep defects you have in the paint and if it's enough for the combo that you can finishing LSP ready to level down the defects
Click to expand...

Ah great! Thanks for the tips


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
From what you wrote, it appears as though you have 1 of each type of pad.

That is really not going to (pun) 'cut it'. The pads get wet and saturated w/ product and lose their cutting ability.

You'll need/want more pads, esp! the cutting and/or polishing pads (like 6 of them for the polishing process).
You don’t want to run out of fresh pads while you're doing this. Oh, and some pad cleaner.
 
I only have 2 of each ... been meaning to get more, but managed to get through the car last time round ... but had to do a lot of pad cleaning / dust removalthroughout !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
howardm4 said:
From what you wrote, it appears as though you have 1 of each type of pad.

That is really not going to (pun) 'cut it'. The pads get wet and saturated w/ product and lose their cutting ability.

You'll need/want more pads, esp! the cutting and/or polishing pads (like 6 of them for the polishing process).
You don’t want to run out of fresh pads while you're doing this. Oh, and some pad cleaner.
Click to expand...

Another thing to consider beyond pads becoming saturated is heat. Pads will heat up while being used and you need to rotate them. Over time constant heating will break down the foam of the pad and the adhesive holding the velcro to the pad. Having lots of pads allows you to keep them from getting too hot and having fresh pads as described above.
 
This video is the best or at least one of the best videos Yancy and I ever churned out.

It's complete and does 2 things,

  1. Shows you what to do.
  2. Explains WHY to do it.


Most videos like this one just show you what to do. It's the part that explains WHY you're doing something PLUS the "what to do part", that makes the mental connection in your brain to enable you to do something successfully.




:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
This video is the best or at least one of the best videos Yancy and I ever churned out.

It's complete and does 2 things,

  1. Shows you what to do.
  2. Explains WHY to do it.


Most videos like this one just show you what to do. It's the part that explains WHY you're doing something PLUS the "what to do part", that makes the mental connection in your brain to enable you to do something successfully.




:)
Click to expand...

That’s the video I found when I was searching earlier Mike and it was extremely helpful !

Just seems that I need to pick up a few more pads before I start to make life a little bit easier.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all your tips and help guys. I definitely need need a few more cutting pads for the next job I do - I spent all my money on polishing pads which I didn't end up using.

For the amateurs out there, I have included the time I spent doing this as this is a proper reflection of how long it really takes to do the job properly at home, in the garage, with kids and wife yelling at me :)

1) Full decontamination wash and masking up (4 hours)
2) Correction done with Menzerna polish products and DA (9.5 hours)
3) 2 layers of Gyeon Mohs + 1 layer of Gyeon CanCoat (7 hours including curing time between coats)
4) Gyeon Cure the next morning 45 minutes

There really isn't much time to stop and take photos, when you're in the groove. Only enough time to stop for water breaks and lunch. 20+ hours of back breaking work (and that's not doing the wheels and B pillars).

Respect for the pros out there ! Will I do this again ? Probably not .. I think I said this the last time I worked on one of my cars...

View attachment 68587View attachment 68588View attachment 68589
 
stylo said:
Thanks for all your tips and help guys. I definitely need need a few more cutting pads for the next job I do - I spent all my money on polishing pads which I didn't end up using.

For the amateurs out there, I have included the time I spent doing this as this is a proper reflection of how long it really takes to do the job properly at home, in the garage, with kids and wife yelling at me :)

1) Full decontamination wash and masking up (4 hours)
2) Correction done with Menzerna polish products and DA (9.5 hours)
3) 2 layers of Gyeon Mohs + 1 layer of Gyeon CanCoat (7 hours including curing time between coats)
4) Gyeon Cure the next morning 45 minutes

There really isn't much time to stop and take photos, when you're in the groove. Only enough time to stop for water breaks and lunch. 20+ hours of back breaking work (and that's not doing the wheels and B pillars).

Respect for the pros out there ! Will I do this again ? Probably not .. I think I said this the last time I worked on one of my cars...

View attachment 68587View attachment 68588View attachment 68589
Click to expand...

Looks good though. Nice color. I said the same but after comments I get I’m ok with once every 2 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great work and write up and pictures Stylo!

Now if you have a great maintance washes and decon wash when needed and topped again if the performance degrade a little with CanCoat again. And you don't need to be polishing it again for 2-3 years. Yeah it's a hard physical work to detailing and I also have the fullest respect for those that does this full time and more!

/ Tony
 
Car looks great. Something to think about down the road when you feel you may want to touch up any marring or swirls is to look into CarPro Essence +. Would save a lot of time by not having to completely strip and re polish your car.
 
fly07sti said:
Car looks great. Something to think about down the road when you feel you may want to touch up any marring or swirls is to look into CarPro Essence +. Would save a lot of time by not having to completely strip and re polish your car.
Click to expand...

Have looked into essence + and will definitely get some for when the time comes to renew the coating, thanks.
 
Hi all an update

Not happy with the bonnet and going to polish and redo. Went to the shop and I managed to pick up some Gyeon Skin with some other stuff.

Now the rest of the car is perfect but has 2xMohs and 1x layer CanCoat (and cure) applied about a month ago.

What’s the process to lay down the skin on the rest of the car where the Mohs has cured ? (Or should I not put skin over cured Mohs ?)

Can I just apply it over the top of the cured Mohs and CanCoat after a decontamination wash with Gyeon Bathe and IPA wipe ?
 
stylo said:
Hi all an update

Not happy with the bonnet and going to polish and redo. Went to the shop and I managed to pick up some Gyeon Skin with some other stuff.

Now the rest of the car is perfect but has 2xMohs and 1x layer CanCoat (and cure) applied about a month ago.

What’s the process to lay down the skin on the rest of the car where the Mohs has cured ? (Or should I not put skin over cured Mohs ?)

Can I just apply it over the top of the cured Mohs and CanCoat after a decontamination wash with Gyeon Bathe and IPA wipe ?
Click to expand...

This should help

Applying Skin Down the Road
 
I asked Gyeon ... they said Skin is redundant on top of cancoat and cure.

I’ll just leave the rest of the car alone and just use it on the bonnet after I polish and mohs it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top