Time to buff/polish....
- Thread starter Bdubbs
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dcjredline
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- Mar 26, 2012
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Can you feel the scratch with your fingernail?
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
If your fingernail doesn't drop INTO the scratch that's a good sign.
Often times you can improve a scratch but not entirely remove a scratch.
Watch this video, it will show you exactly what to do.
Often times you can improve a scratch but not entirely remove a scratch.
Watch this video, it will show you exactly what to do.
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
More...
More....
Be sure to read these two articles and do at least one of the things I show...
How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads
Use a combination of Sharpie Markers, both Black and Silver and also touch-up paint can be used.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
And here's my quote on this topic....
If the pad is not rotating on a free spinning random orbital polisher - you are not doing anything -Mike Phillips
Ha ha.... there used to be a couple of guys that would try to argue that a pad does not need to rotate in order to remove swirls and scratches, that oscillation was enough - but they've disappeared.
In reality, for any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher, if the pad is NOT rotating, then the oscillation isn't full or true oscillation but close to the pad simply vibrating against the paint. And while some people may try to argue that this vibration of a pad against the paint can and will ABRADE the paint - the abrading will be so minute that it will take you a million years to buff out one 16" by 16" area.
So from a practical point of view, and by this I mean, at some point I need to buff out the car, finish it, get my money, go home, take a shower, eat dinner and go to bed, from this practical point of view, having a pad ONLY oscillate or vibrate against paint with swirls, scratches, water spots and/or oxidation is a waste of time.
If you want to remove below surface paint defects in a sane manner and you're' going to use a free spinning random orbital polisher then the pad MUST rotate and oscillate. Anything else is just wasting time. And this is why I tell people to mark their backing plates or the sides of their buffing pads - so it's easy for your EYES to see what's happening at the surface level. Otherwise the action taking place at the pad-to-paint interface is just a blur.
More....
Be sure to read these two articles and do at least one of the things I show...
How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads
Use a combination of Sharpie Markers, both Black and Silver and also touch-up paint can be used.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
And here's my quote on this topic....
If the pad is not rotating on a free spinning random orbital polisher - you are not doing anything -Mike Phillips
Ha ha.... there used to be a couple of guys that would try to argue that a pad does not need to rotate in order to remove swirls and scratches, that oscillation was enough - but they've disappeared.
In reality, for any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher, if the pad is NOT rotating, then the oscillation isn't full or true oscillation but close to the pad simply vibrating against the paint. And while some people may try to argue that this vibration of a pad against the paint can and will ABRADE the paint - the abrading will be so minute that it will take you a million years to buff out one 16" by 16" area.
So from a practical point of view, and by this I mean, at some point I need to buff out the car, finish it, get my money, go home, take a shower, eat dinner and go to bed, from this practical point of view, having a pad ONLY oscillate or vibrate against paint with swirls, scratches, water spots and/or oxidation is a waste of time.
If you want to remove below surface paint defects in a sane manner and you're' going to use a free spinning random orbital polisher then the pad MUST rotate and oscillate. Anything else is just wasting time. And this is why I tell people to mark their backing plates or the sides of their buffing pads - so it's easy for your EYES to see what's happening at the surface level. Otherwise the action taking place at the pad-to-paint interface is just a blur.
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #6
Not the best picture. This was my first time using a DA polisher. I have the porter cable.
I only did the hood and top fenders right now, I plan on doing the whole car soon.
I used Wolfgang products. First I used a orange pad, then a white pad.
I still have some small scratches, but it looks much better!
I'm wondering if I should use a little more aggressive pad or not?
I need to order up some black pads for laying down wax. After using the DA polisher, I really don't want to do anything by hand!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
I only did the hood and top fenders right now, I plan on doing the whole car soon.
I used Wolfgang products. First I used a orange pad, then a white pad.
I still have some small scratches, but it looks much better!
I'm wondering if I should use a little more aggressive pad or not?
I need to order up some black pads for laying down wax. After using the DA polisher, I really don't want to do anything by hand!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
LSNAutoDetailing
New member
- Jun 21, 2014
- 3,360
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A fox body Mustang. Gotta give it some love.
More picture please!!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More picture please!!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LSNAutoDetailing
New member
- Jun 21, 2014
- 3,360
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Thanks!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
That is awesome. I had an 89 LX 5.0 hatch. Please keep that ascetically stock as possible! Nothing worse than seeing the big gigantic fiberglass hoods and ground effects with big wings on the back.
My only recommendation is some mud flaps, those beefy tires will tear that undercarriage up... I know from experience.
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
Looks great for your first time.
Heck - better than the work some with the title, "Pro Detailer" put out for sure.
With the Total Swirl Remover, which is a "Medium Cut" polish, you could safely use a more aggressive pad to remove a little more of the defects. That's a very nice product, I just used it on the custom paint on a 1932 Ford Roadster.
From the pictures of the pads in the plastic packaging, looks like 6.5" CCS pads? If so - those are freaking HUGE for that machine. Before you invest any more money into huge pads, get a 5" backing plate and switch over to 5.5" pads. Smaller diameter and thinner pads WILL ROTATE so much better than those monsters. Those huge thick pads are great to learn on but once you are comfortable with machine polishing, you'll appreciate the smaller, thinner pads as they will enable YOU to get more out of that machine.
I need to remember where this thread is and the above comment for every time someone joins this forum and asks,
How do you remove swirls? And oh yeah, I'm working by hand.
How do you like your Moto phone?
It is one of the FEW phones manufactured in the United States of America.
I was researching American-made phones over the weekend.
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #11
Thank you for all the help! The pads are 5.5" smart pads from lake country. I have more on the way.
I am considering a more aggressive pad and a finishing pad for the sealant.
So what do you do with the hard to reach areas where the da polisher can't get to?
As far as my phone, no complaints. It's about two years old, bought it from Amazon during a Christmas special for 130 dollars!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
I am considering a more aggressive pad and a finishing pad for the sealant.
So what do you do with the hard to reach areas where the da polisher can't get to?
As far as my phone, no complaints. It's about two years old, bought it from Amazon during a Christmas special for 130 dollars!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Bdubbs
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- Apr 14, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #12
This past Sunday I ended up going over the whole car. Total time was around 8 hours.
I think it turned out great for my first time. I need to order up some more Wolfgang. I plan on doing my 03 cobra soon.
It definitely is a lot of work! I might do ceramic coating in the future.
Picture below is only after the first total swirl remover compound.
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
I think it turned out great for my first time. I need to order up some more Wolfgang. I plan on doing my 03 cobra soon.
It definitely is a lot of work! I might do ceramic coating in the future.
Picture below is only after the first total swirl remover compound.
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
It does look good, even GREAT! :dblthumb2:
But the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself is priceless.
I guarantee you - here's what's going to happen next....
Your friends, neighbors, co-workers, boss, family, etc. will say,
How much to do my car?
Right off the bat, tell them for outside only, $500.00.00
Drop the mic and walk away. If they're serious, they'll pay.
Bdubbs
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- Apr 14, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #14
Thank you! I've already had a couple people ask me LoL.It does look good, even GREAT! :dblthumb2:
But the satisfaction you get from doing it yourself is priceless.
I guarantee you - here's what's going to happen next....
Your friends, neighbors, co-workers, boss, family, etc. will say,
How much to do my car?
Right off the bat, tell them for outside only, $500.00.00
Drop the mic and walk away. If they're serious, they'll pay.
Will people actually pay that price?
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
First, nice work. Any finished pics?
Second, being a Mustang guy (I currently have a supercharged 89 5.0 coupe), just seeing the original pictures I had a good feeling it was a foxbody.
View attachment 69930
From your pictures, mine's not nearly as nice (MN winters and a crappy repaint did a number on it before I purchased it in ~2003).
Maybe some day I'll tackle body work. I do plan to try to do some paint correction on it in the near future.
As someone else said, keep any body mods minimal....i.e. don't do any.
The minimalist body on the LX coupe just makes it that much more desirable.
Second, being a Mustang guy (I currently have a supercharged 89 5.0 coupe), just seeing the original pictures I had a good feeling it was a foxbody.
View attachment 69930
From your pictures, mine's not nearly as nice (MN winters and a crappy repaint did a number on it before I purchased it in ~2003).
Maybe some day I'll tackle body work. I do plan to try to do some paint correction on it in the near future.
As someone else said, keep any body mods minimal....i.e. don't do any.
The minimalist body on the LX coupe just makes it that much more desirable.
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 364
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- Thread starter
- #16
Thank you. I'll try to get some better finished pictures. Unfortunately, I can't drive it right now. I sent the ECU out for repair. Hopefully that fixes some drivability issues I've been having.First, nice work. Any finished pics?
Second, being a Mustang guy (I currently have a supercharged 89 5.0 coupe), just seeing the original pictures I had a good feeling it was a foxbody.
View attachment 69930
From your pictures, mine's not nearly as nice (MN winters and a crappy repaint did a number on it before I purchased it in ~2003).
Maybe some day I'll tackle body work. I do plan to try to do some paint correction on it in the near future.
As someone else said, keep any body mods minimal....i.e. don't do any.
So are you from Minnesota? I live in southern Minnesota! Your car looks great!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Yup, MN native. I currently live in Falcon Heights (few blocks from State Fair Grounds).
The picture is deceiving. Many scratches and swirls, some rust spots and a few dents and dings. The drivetrain makes up for the less than stellar body.
. My car isn't perfect either. Just a HCI car, with a cobra IRS.The beautiful thing about putting in all the work the first time is you shouldn't have to do as much the second time. With proper wash technique and a little TLC you can usually get away with a light correction/polish once a year. I typically use an All in one in the spring, then a more durable sealant sometime in the fall.
I use a PC too. It's a good machine and will keep you from getting into too much trouble. I'd suggest switching from the CCS pads to thin pros. I was happy I did.
I use a PC too. It's a good machine and will keep you from getting into too much trouble. I'd suggest switching from the CCS pads to thin pros. I was happy I did.
Bdubbs
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- Apr 14, 2020
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- #20
Awesome. I wonder if I should continue with the final glaze for upkeep? Or should I be using the total swirl remover? Then hit the car up with a wax/sealant.
I'll have to look into the thin pro pads. Thank you.
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