Will Poorboys Professional Polish Clean panels well?

MrOneEyedBoh

MrOneEyedBoh

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Basically what I want to do is it polish my paint but don't really want to use anything abrasive. Ford clear is super thin, so I plan to only hit it with abrasive every few years. It's white the swirls are hidden well.

What I want to do is clean the paint to remove water stains, embedded dirt etc. I think Professional Polish on a white LC pad should be good. And I also want to clean the paint for the best chance of sealant to bond/lay down well.
 
It should do the trick for those purposes. With a white pad, you'll actually get some correction as well.

I used Pro Polish on my daughter's gray metallic Mazda3 many years ago and it actually did I pretty good job of increasing the shine and clarity of the paint. There wasn't any major correction going on, but it did remove light swirls from washing and add some gloss.
 
Thanks! So should I wash, chemical decontaminate, wash, clay then polish or can I wash clay and then polish?
 
What do you mean by chemical decontaminate? If you mean using a product like IronX, then yes, go ahead and do that step. Pro-polish won't act like an iron remover. If not, I don't know what you'd gain by doing that step and polishing.
 
Pro polish is great stuff. I use it a lot. Also a fantastic metal polish.

Sounds like it’s perfect for your situation here.
 
Sorry yeah I want to wash, iron x, clay, wash and polish. I just didn't know if I should do both since I just did iron x a few months back. Maybe clay is enough?

Basically I want to clean the paint, clear it up some make it shine and throw a sealant on it for winter.
 
When using a sealant, I've always taken the path of least resistance when going into winter. I look for protection over anything else. The car will be covered in grime and salt for most of the winter and any major amount of work won't be seen. I wait until spring to make the car look it's best.
 
What about people saying you need clean paint to allow it to bond , per-se. This time, since I bought the truck new and they're super expensive, I'm trying to do it all as right as possible....
 
The sealant will bond just fine if you don't use IronX. It would even work well if you don't clay. Heck, it would probably still work just fine if you simply washed the vehicle really well and jumped straight to the sealant. Sealants really don't need a carefully prepped surface like a coating does.

I have never used an iron remover on any car. Until I started using coatings, I never did a panel wipe before applying a sealant either. When I still used sealants my winter prep consisted of washing the car, applying a glaze like Prima Amigo to fill in any defects, and then I'd go straight to applying the Klasse twins or Collinite 845. I'd save the clay and a good polishing until the spring. I never had issues with the sealants not getting me through the winter. In fact, I never noticed any difference in sealant durability between my spring/fall routines even though they were slightly different. I'd always get around 5~6 months.
 
Thanks. I for some reasons always have a problem with the hood. I don't know why .. but it seems to fail there prematurely. Maybe it's just loaded with pollen and dirt from sitting outside? I don't drive it much just to work maybe a day or two and then on the weekend. So if it rains it sits in the driveway and dries off there too. So it kinda sucks but which is another reason I want to keep a good coat of wax/sealant on it.

I used a few different kinds and out of the common ones Fk great white lasted decently. And this time I'm using fusso coat. It's not nearly as bad to remove as others say and to me it looks to have made a visual difference versus other sealants. GW looked good too.... Must be the true synthetic sealant look...
 
Have you thought about using one of the new dr. beaseley's finishing primer polishes and ceramic coating the truck. Your maintenance will be a lot easier and you won't have to polish so often. Just an option.
 
I did ceramic a while back. I just felt like there was a level of uncertainty for me. Like the paint has to be ultra clean for the bond. When I wash it, I like to use something on the paint afterwards, BSD, Beadmaker, Aquawax etc. And over time it doesn't feel right to not put something on the paint like a sealant every 6 mths.

I guess it's a mental thing and I know there is something on the paint ( ceramic coating ) and doing it once and done but applying a sealant every 4-6 months and knowing something is there but diminishing.
 
Re: Will Poorboys Professional PolishClean panels well?

MrOneEyedBoh said:
Basically what I want to do is it polish my paint
but don't really want to use anything abrasive.

Ford clear is super thin, so I plan to only hit it
with abrasive every few years. It's white the
swirls are hidden well.

What I want to do is clean the paint to remove water
stains, embedded dirt etc. I think Professional Polish
on a white LC pad should be good. And I also want
to clean the paint for the best chance of sealant to
bond/lay down well.
Click to expand...
•IMO:
-Poorboy’s Professional Polish will clean
paint/panels quite well.

•In fact...(as far as I’m aware of):
-”cleaning the paint” is at least one of
the purposes behind every car polish’s
fundamental characteristics/qualities.


•Also, IMO:
-Your attempts at saving as much of your vehicle’s
CC as possible by using not-very-abrasive polishes
is a noble effort.
-Using products such as 3M IHG to “clean the paint”,
would be more in the not-very-abrasive polish
ballpark, than ‘Professional Polish’. {YMMV}


Bob
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
I did ceramic a while back. I just felt like there was a level of uncertainty for me. Like the paint has to be ultra clean for the bond. When I wash it, I like to use something on the paint afterwards, BSD, Beadmaker, Aquawax etc. And over time it doesn't feel right to not put something on the paint like a sealant every 6 mths.

I guess it's a mental thing and I know there is something on the paint ( ceramic coating ) and doing it once and done but applying a sealant every 4-6 months and knowing something is there but diminishing.
Click to expand...

No need to put a wax or sealant over the coating. Simple wash and the drying aid of your choice. Beadmaker is a favorite for those wanting to top their coatings. I just listened to a podcast (i forget which one) and it was mentioned that beadmaker can extend the life of a coating by 1.5 years using it as a drying aid. As I mentioned your maintenance will be a lot less and you won't be touching the paint that often.
 
Yes, Poorboy's World Pro Polish will work just fine for what you want.

It's a good product.
 
Guz, it's just that when I install it, I have my doubts that I did it correctly. Even though I'm pretty sure I did, there is always a bit in my head that I did it right
 
Re: Will Poorboys Professional PolishClean panels well?

The Guz said:
Beadmaker is a favorite for those wanting to top their coatings. I just listened to a podcast (i forget which one) and it was mentioned that beadmaker can extend the life of a coating by 1.5 years using it as a drying aid. As I mentioned your maintenance will be a lot less and you won't be touching the paint that often.
Click to expand...

Wow.

I remember a thread about BM as a coating topper, and commenting that it would "be funny if this worked" as a cheaper alliterative.

What is your take on this, Mike?
 
If you lack confidence in the Poor Boys Polish, you can rest easy that P21s Cleaner Polish will definitely clean the white paint on your Ford (and make it glossier).

34c61343c27af9ac1a22c8060117420c.jpg


Ford
White
Cleaner Polish

You tell me...
1e57c8ec03c6bc37f11698bd1e1e57a0.jpg


No clay bar
Mild use of an iron remover as it was easy to spot any particles on the surface.
Anything missed, the P21s on an LC white Polish pad took care of it.
 
Re: Will Poorboys Professional PolishClean panels well?

MrOneEyedBoh said:
Guz, it's just that when I install it, I have my doubts that I did it correctly. Even though I'm pretty sure I did, there is always a bit in my head that I did it right
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion and I have faith that you can apply it successfully to protect the paint for a longer period of time. Especially with the ease of use of coatings these days.

PaulMys said:
Wow.

I remember a thread about BM as a coating topper, and commenting that it would "be funny if this worked" as a cheaper alliterative.

What is your take on this, Mike?
Click to expand...

I never got sucked into the beadmaker bandwagon and have not used it to this day. It does contain a little SiO2 in the formula from what I have heard. Just not advertised. I imagine the same thing can be done with most coating maintenance products.
 
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