Best topper for 4* UPP?

bandgeek99

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I'm finally getting around to doing the summer detail on my car and I've decided to use the Pinnacle Twins (Swirl Remover & Finishing Polish) and 4* UPP w/Polycharger.

I'm already done with that and the UPP is curing as we speak, but I can't decide what to put on top of the UPP. I know there was some debate as to how long the UPP would last, and I'm hoping to get to October/November, so I'm thinking I need a sacrificial layer of carnuaba or a second coat of UPP. Though, this is the summer detail so I'm going for a great look (as opposed to the winter detail where I shot for most protection/durability).

The car is an 06 Charger with Magnesium Pearl Paint, and during the summer it'll see at least bi-weekly washing (usually weekly, but sometimes life gets in the way) and the wax can be maintained with Liquid Souveran Spray, Aquawax, Optimum Instant Gloss Enhancer, and Meg's UQD.

So the question:
What should I top the UPP with? Available stock includes and is limited to:
  • A second coat of UPP
  • Liquid Souveran (w/o Polycharger)
  • XMT180
  • Pinnacle Souveran
  • Duragloss 101 (Cleaner so I would assume not, but I have it)
  • Duragloss 105
  • Aquawax
  • Nothing! 1 coat of UPP is enough.
Follow up question is what maintenance spray wax do I use to keep it up?
  • LSS
  • AW
  • Optimum Instant Gloss
  • Meg's UQD
Thanks - All of your input is appreciated. I'm going to be hitting this fresh at 3 o'clock so post up!
 
I also have some of the new UPP coming in. I plan on doing a test side by side with older UPP to see the differences.

Back to your question, even though you don't have this, I would use 4* UPPS - the UPP spray sealant. It is a very cool product and is very similar to UPP just in spray form. You spray on, wipe off, bring vehicle into the sun and as it cures in the sun it gets very very slick. You don't need to bring it in the sun but when it first came out that was the neat thing about it, it gets very slick from the heat of the sun.

But anything you use is going to work fine. The LS and LS spray sounds like a nice combo. But then again UPP is nice by itself and adding another layer every 2-3 months and maintaining in between with OID.
 
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Souveran and UPP are a beautiful combo. You could maintain with LSS, AW, or OIG. From my experience AW will alter the depth of the finish and make it a little more reflective, but still beautiful. I haven't tried OIG yet.
 
Every time I see UPP I think of Killr's Vette that is topped with Souveran. It's impressive, however black, and you're working with pearl. Think that I'd try a little side by side with the Souveran and LS to see.
 
Back to your question, even though you don't have this, I would use 4* UPPS - the UPP spray sealant. It is a very cool product and is very similar to UPP just in spray form. You spray on, wipe off, bring vehicle into the sun and as it cures in the sun it gets very very slick. You don't need to bring it in the sun but when it first came out that was the neat thing about it, it gets very slick from the heat of the sun.

How long does the UPPS take to cure?

Souveran and UPP are a beautiful combo. You could maintain with LSS, AW, or OIG. From my experience AW will alter the depth of the finish and make it a little more reflective, but still beautiful. I haven't tried OIG yet.

I used the AW on top of the Klasse twins and XMT180 for my winter detail this past year, and was amazed at how much the AW put back in the depth of the car & helped bring out some of the pearl. But I am afraid the AW will really change the look, as you've mentioned.

Every time I see UPP I think of Killr's Vette that is topped with Souveran. It's impressive, however black, and you're working with pearl. Think that I'd try a little side by side with the Souveran and LS to see.

How can I remove the 'loser' (so to speak) without removing the underlying sealant?

Thanks guys - keep the thoughts comin!
 
My last purchase was the Souveran Liquid w/ polycharge. I topped it with Danase Wet Glaze. I Like the "Wet Look"
Has anyone tried the Danase Wet Glaze,and if so what's your take on it?
 
I would use AW every other wash. This will prolong the UPP. But if your set on topping it I would use a nuba such as P21 100%
 
with the newer version of UPP all you need is the Spray Wax for a topper. Its a quick and beautiful combo.
 
hey bandgeek99 - how was it working with 4*UPP? Was it easy to apply and wipe off?

Howard
 
My last purchase was the Souveran Liquid w/ polycharge. I topped it with Danase Wet Glaze. I Like the "Wet Look"
Has anyone tried the Danase Wet Glaze,and if so what's your take on it?
DWG is nice, but its a glaze and wont last. I would top it with a nuba or LS.
 
Thanks Rsurfer. I don't clam to know half of the good or great products or processes. But I will ask and take advise.
 
Well, I went with the new UPP 1-coat and Liquid Souveran 1-coat. I'll be maintaining with LSS every two-weeks, I think. We'll see at the first few washings. Right now the car is laid up on jack stands in the garage waiting on some replacement parts to finish out a brake upgrade, so no pictures yet. First opinions are that it's awesome, but until its outside I won't commit. Also, the XMT polishes didn't do much to a lot of the minor scratches I have (they're in the clear but not in the paint), so I'm convinced it's time to try Menz, or it's time to add a glaze to my routine. . . I'm accepting opinions on that if you have any. . .

Using the 4* was cake. Went on really easy and came off really easy, easier than the LS came off actually. Only catch was with the 70/30 plush Cobra MF, it developed a static charge that was pretty annoying and eventually I was just pushing some of the residue powder around and the MF wouldn't pick it up. Had the same problem taking the LS off as well, so I don't know if this is a problem with the MF or if the 4* is supposed to be statically charged like that.
 
I would go with Menz for polishing. As far as pushing dust around with your MF, try using a QD on the 2nd wipe down.
 
Well, I went with the new UPP 1-coat and Liquid Souveran 1-coat. I'll be maintaining with LSS every two-weeks, I think. We'll see at the first few washings. Right now the car is laid up on jack stands in the garage waiting on some replacement parts to finish out a brake upgrade, so no pictures yet. First opinions are that it's awesome, but until its outside I won't commit. Also, the XMT polishes didn't do much to a lot of the minor scratches I have (they're in the clear but not in the paint), so I'm convinced it's time to try Menz, or it's time to add a glaze to my routine. . . I'm accepting opinions on that if you have any. . .

Using the 4* was cake. Went on really easy and came off really easy, easier than the LS came off actually. Only catch was with the 70/30 plush Cobra MF, it developed a static charge that was pretty annoying and eventually I was just pushing some of the residue powder around and the MF wouldn't pick it up. Had the same problem taking the LS off as well, so I don't know if this is a problem with the MF or if the 4* is supposed to be statically charged like that.


Use dryer balls as possible, you might see less static charge from your MF towels. I find an Indigo works great with UPP and remember the sealant can be put on quite light.
 
I use dryer balls and they seem to reduce wrinkles and static cling.
 
You're using the Pinnacle twins, make it the triplets--pinnacle sov paste--sure bet.
 
Thanks for the help. I'll be picking up some Menz and some glaze (just in case), and I'll be digging around the garage from some old tennis balls to throw in the dryer with the clothes.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the help. I'll be picking up some Menz and some glaze (just in case), and I'll be digging around the garage from some old tennis balls to throw in the dryer with the clothes.

Thanks again!
I wouldnt use tennis balls as they have little hairy fuzz that will cling to your mfs. Get the regular dryer balls at Wal Mart.
 
Another way to reduce the static is to let the towels air dry and not use a dryer at all. If you don't like that, put them in the drier for 10 - 15 mins and then let them air dry. The static cling should be greatly reduced compared to drying them on a full cycle.
 
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