Can a ameteur do a swirl free polish with a rotary?

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TheTick

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I've been polishing cars for friends and family. PC works, but takes way too long. Did a ton of searching on rotary polishing and I'm thinking about stepping up to a makita 9227c and give it a shot.

I recently started searching the Meguiars forums and came across a lot of threads that say it is possible to do a swirl free finish, but extremely difficult. Many recommend following up with a PC. I've been using Menzerna power finish as a great one step. I figure using a rotary and then having to go over it again with a PC would not save me that much time.

Looking to save time and need some guidance. Thanks!
 
I think anyone can get a swirl free finish with a rotary if they take their time. You have to have a lot of care using a rotary and pay attention to what you're doing. I would buy a rotary and see if you can practice on an older car or any car for that matter (as long as the owner doesn't mind the consequences). You could use something like SIP and then follow that up with 85rd or Nano. Then you just have to choose your LSP.
 
It is very hard, that is why you will see alot of people fiinish with a DA. It will take quit a bit of practice to be able to achieve a hologram/swirl free finish with the roatary but there are a few that have it down. If you do get one I would suggest getting a wool pad to practice with since it will glide over the paint alot easier than a foam pad. This way you can get the feel of what the rotary acts like. The numerous people I have helped with a rotary I have suggested this to have said it helps a ton. Then you can try a polishing pad and move back. AN orange pad will be your toughest pad to deal with but if you need an orange pad just get a wool pad, easier to use and levels the paint better, which in the end gives the best gloss results.
 
Once you get the hang of the machine it is possible, but you really need to pay attention to your technique, arm speed, pressure, buffing time, RPM's all come in to play. Some paints are easier to get swirl free than others too. ;)

Since the purchase of my FLEX 3401, it has become my tool of choice for the final step. :cheers:
 
Its taking your time that is the key, first time I used a Rotary I was very surprised at how well it did turn out. I have used the PC for years but the rotary always had scared me off a bit. Just keep it moving....
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
It is very hard, that is why you will see alot of people fiinish with a DA. It will take quit a bit of practice to be able to achieve a hologram/swirl free finish with the roatary but there are a few that have it down. If you do get one I would suggest getting a wool pad to practice with since it will glide over the paint alot easier than a foam pad. This way you can get the feel of what the rotary acts like. The numerous people I have helped with a rotary I have suggested this to have said it helps a ton. Then you can try a polishing pad and move back. AN orange pad will be your toughest pad to deal with but if you need an orange pad just get a wool pad, easier to use and levels the paint better, which in the end gives the best gloss results.
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:iagree:
 
I think the problem with a newbie using a rotary instead of a PC or Flex even, is they won't know the correct pressure and movement you need to not burn paint or cause holograms and markings up the ying yang. Also depends on the car as ones with a lot of curves or angles, can make for easy paint damage with a rotary if not careful.
 
Well so far, I've had great results with the pc doing a one step polish. Sounds like a rotary will require a 2-3 step polish which probably won't save me any time unless the car needs a lot of correction.

If I'm just looking to save time, perhaps the flex DA would be a better choice.
 
TheTick said:
Well so far, I've had great results with the pc doing a one step polish. Sounds like a rotary will require a 2-3 step polish which probably won't save me any time unless the car needs a lot of correction.

If I'm just looking to save time, perhaps the flex DA would be a better choice.
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If you are trying to achieve the same level of correction, the rotary will be faster than a DA. How many buffing steps you do depends on the level of correction you want to achieve.
 
All the cars I seem to do have minor to medium swirls. PC worked great with one pass, but very time consuming. I know the Flex DA would save some time, but it's pretty pricey. I figured a rotary and pc would be the best of both worlds, but it seems that it may not save any time for minor correction.
 
TheTick said:
All the cars I seem to do have minor to medium swirls. PC worked great with one pass, but very time consuming. I know the Flex DA would save some time, but it's pretty pricey. I figured a rotary and pc would be the best of both worlds, but it seems that it may not save any time for minor correction.
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Same pad, same polish, the rotary should be faster, and better at defect removal.
 
From experience and all these other posts, if you really want to do it the correct way, whether using a PC, Flex, or rotary, you need to have the time to do it. You can't expect to rush through something and get the best results. If the best results aren't what you're looking for, then the real question is why even bother with a DA, let alone a rotary?
 
The rotary will be always faster, plus you are only doing one pass with an orange pad on a pc, it should be followed up anyway so the rotary/pc combo would be faster. As said in other post it depends how far you are going to take the correction, but once you see the difference after using the rotary you will be very happy after doing a couple steps vs. the one you are doing with a pc.
 
Its very hard to properly correct paint. Thats why there are so many hacks out there, and so many people charging $50+ an hour to do it.
 
joshs07redss said:
From experience and all these other posts, if you really want to do it the correct way, whether using a PC, Flex, or rotary, you need to have the time to do it. You can't expect to rush through something and get the best results. If the best results aren't what you're looking for, then the real question is why even bother with a DA, let alone a rotary?
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I don't understand your question. I'm getting fantastic results with a pc. Everyone so far has been totally blown away at the finish with one pass on a pc so we are all happy. I'm just trying to save time. Sounds like a rotary will force me to do another finishing pass with a pc which probably won't save that much time. Just looking for some guidance.
 
Like I have said before you need another step after the orange pad on a pc anyway. Plus the heat a rotary generates and speed will give you even better results, but it seems you are more worried about time than quality.
 
Thanks for the input Asphalt Rocket. I think I may just get a rotary to learn and have fun with it.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Like I have said before you need another step after the orange pad on a pc anyway. Plus the heat a rotary generates and speed will give you even better results, but it seems you are more worried about time than quality.
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Yes.. I am more concerned about time since everyone is totally happy with the quality.
 
I switched from a DA to a Rotary and haven't looked back. I get better results faster with a rotary.
 
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