What can I do about static?

Laura

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Feed back pleaseCan you tell me what I'm doing wrong? Buffing creates an incredible amount of static on my plastic front and rear bumpers. I use indigo mf towels with Wolfgang products; the worst is DGPS, but it happens with Fuzion, too. This causes not only the wax dust but also every air-borne particle in a 10 mile radius to stick to the car and the towel. Is this a common problem? What can I do differently?
 
I have some FK 425 due in today. I'm hoping that using it as Loudog2 recommends, right after the LSP cures, will help keep some of dust and airborne particles off my black Camry a little longer than I'm getting.

Mike
 
Water removes static. So wiping with water would remove static. Wiping with water doesn't usually make the paint look glossy and clear.

Quick detailers, or spray detailers make paint look clear and glossy. Quick detailers or spray detailers contain water. Most any quick detailer will remove static electricity because they contain water and water removes static electricity.

Lots of rubbing with a dry cloth makes static electricity for do only a final wipe with your spray detailer to remove static electricity, don't wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe, etc.


For what it's worth, you can also ground out your car, this isn't a perfect solution but it can help. I've used Jumper cables because they're a great conduit for electricity and already have a built in clamp at both ends.

Clamp one end to car and clamp the other end to something that's grounded to the ground like a metal water pipe or a steel stake in the yard, use your imagination.

:)
 
Water removes static. So wiping with water would remove static. Wiping with water doesn't usually make the paint look glossy and clear.

Quick detailers, or spray detailers make paint look clear and glossy. Quick detailers or spray detailers contain water. Most any quick detailer will remove static electricity because they contain water and water removes static electricity.

Lots of rubbing with a dry cloth makes static electricity for do only a final wipe with your spray detailer to remove static electricity, don't wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe, etc.


For what it's worth, you can also ground out your car, this isn't a perfect solution but it can help. I've used Jumper cables because they're a great conduit for electricity and already have a built in clamp at both ends.

Clamp one end to car and clamp the other end to something that's grounded to the ground like a metal water pipe or a steel stake in the yard, use your imagination.

:)

I love the grounding idea...I use QD also.
 
Water removes static. So wiping with water would remove static. Wiping with water doesn't usually make the paint look glossy and clear.

Quick detailers, or spray detailers make paint look clear and glossy. Quick detailers or spray detailers contain water. Most any quick detailer will remove static electricity because they contain water and water removes static electricity.

Lots of rubbing with a dry cloth makes static electricity for do only a final wipe with your spray detailer to remove static electricity, don't wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe, etc.


For what it's worth, you can also ground out your car, this isn't a perfect solution but it can help. I've used Jumper cables because they're a great conduit for electricity and already have a built in clamp at both ends.

Clamp one end to car and clamp the other end to something that's grounded to the ground like a metal water pipe or a steel stake in the yard, use your imagination.

:)

Mike,

Speaking of using your imagination. Here is one of the replies you made to a thread I started over a year ago on MOL on the exact same subject.

"Part of the problem is air-borne dust particles have their own static charge and you can't remove this static charge from all the dust in the air.

Been told clear coats style paints also have their own level of static charge too...

Need a Forcefield of some kind... someting you can turn on and off like a car alarm..."

Great Idea. Too bad nobody ran with the idea. :laughing:

:)

Mike
 
I maybe having a mental fart..it has been known to happen but what does LSP stand for?

LSP = Last Step Product

That would be the last thing you apply and then remove from the paint and afterwards you stand back and say,

"It is finished"


Some people think it means Last Step Protectant as in a finishing wax, either a Carnauba type wax or a synthetic Paint Sealant but that's not the true meaning.

Some people use a one-step wax when they detail for money for daily drivers, for them their AIO or One-Step Cleaner/Wax would be their LSP

Some people are working on fresh paint and won't apply any type of product that seals paint at all but instead may just apply something like #7 Show Car Glaze, for the the #7 would be their LSP

It's the last thing you apply and then remove from the paint and then afterwards your done. time to take the car for a spin and show it off or hand the keys back to the owner and collect your money.


:)
 
Mike,

Speaking of using your imagination. Here is one of the replies you made to a thread I started over a year ago on MOL on the exact same subject.

"Part of the problem is air-borne dust particles have their own static charge and you can't remove this static charge from all the dust in the air.

Been told clear coats style paints also have their own level of static charge too...

Need a Forcefield of some kind... something you can turn on and off like a car alarm..."

Great Idea. Too bad nobody ran with the idea. :laughing:

:)

Mike

You're a pretty good Super Searching Sleuth!


:)
 
LSP = Last Step Product

That would be the last thing you apply and then remove from the paint and afterwards you stand back and say,

"It is finished"


Some people think it means Last Step Protectant as in a finishing wax, either a Carnauba type wax or a synthetic Paint Sealant but that's not the true meaning.

Some people use a one-step wax when they detail for money for daily drivers, for them their AIO or One-Step Cleaner/Wax would be their LSP

Some people are working on fresh paint and won't apply any type of product that seals paint at all but instead may just apply something like #7 Show Car Glaze, for the the #7 would be their LSP

It's the last thing you apply and then remove from the paint and then afterwards your done. time to take the car for a spin and show it off or hand the keys back to the owner and collect your money.


:)

Great explanation. thank you. While I have your attention please answer something. What is the rule on applying paint sealant or a wax over a Glaze?
 
I also have a black car and fight the dreaded static monster (everything shows worse on black!!) I have found in my case that when applying my LSP that if I use a real plush MF towel like the Cobra 530 it seems to generate more static then if I use my Cobra waffle weave guzzlers. I now use my WW's not only to dry my car but also to wipe off (GENTLY) my LSP. I still use my 530's for removing/buffing paint cleansers, sealants,waxes,etc.; but I now use my WW's to (GENTLY) remove my LSP. This seems to cut down on the static as well as what looks like very small pieces of lint that are left behind with the 530's but not the WW's. This works so well for me that I have orderd another set of WW's just for the LSP.

Shine On!!!
 
This is an interesting thread. I never really thought about static on my cars paint, but it makes a lot of sense. 2 weekends ago I did my LC Hydro-tech pad comparison on my Jeep. I polished and waxed the hood in my pole barn. The first two days that I came out there (and while I was working) my hood would accumulate a ton of dog hair (both my dogs where helping me detail). I thought it was because of the fan, but the second day the fan wasn't on. On day 3 when I came out (and while working) I didn't really have to deal with much dog hair; even though the fan WAS on... At the time I didn't give it much thought, I just kept a clean MF to lightly wipe the hood off (when blowing on it didn't work). Thinking back now, I remember the last thing I did on day 2 was hit it with a coat of DP Final Gloss... That must have removed the static charge, and thats why it wasn't an issue on day 3. :nomore:

Thanks for the info!Im the MAN:buffing:Im the MAN:buffing:
 
The first two days that I came out there (and while I was working) my hood would accumulate a ton of dog hair (both my dogs where helping me detail). I thought it was because of the fan, but the second day the fan wasn't on. On day 3 when I came out (and while working) I didn't really have to deal with much dog hair; even though the fan WAS on...

:laughing: Dog hair was exactly the issue I was having this weekend! It exists everywhere at my house right now. I couldn't keep it off the fascia. I'm doing everthing by hand, so it was really bad when I was removing the DGPS. The dust would just stay on the car, then the hair would appear. I've got some FK425 on its way to me. Would it hurt anything if I removed the sealant and wax with a mf that I'd lightly misted with QD?
 
Interesting thread. I've been running into horrific dust from static on a new Vivid Black Harley. After a couple hundred mile ride on relatively clean roads it resembles the thick crud I pick up riding in March or April in NE Ohio when all the salt dust is still all over the roads. Dressers tend to have that station-wagon effect where huge amounts of road grime blow forward from the back and coat the rear of the bike. I first noticed the increase of really heavy dust accumulations when I started doing UQD wipedowns and using UQW after a wash in an attempt to keep that new, pristine black finish the way it came out of the box. I used my fluffiest Cobras for the task to try and prevent marring as Harley's black is as soft and miserable as any you'll find.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Lots of rubbing with a dry cloth makes static electricity for do only a final wipe with your spray detailer to remove static electricity, don't wipe and wipe and wipe and wipe, etc.

Same conclusion I came to. I began using some less-plush MFs and the dust attraction decreased noticeably.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Water removes static. So wiping with water would remove static. Wiping with water doesn't usually make the paint look glossy and clear.

Quick detailers, or spray detailers make paint look clear and glossy. Quick detailers or spray detailers contain water. Most any quick detailer will remove static electricity because they contain water and water removes static electricity.

I noticed whether I used PB's S&W, UQD or others or UQW there wasn't much difference until I started using my less plush MFs. I then noticed after a wet wash and dry using WW I wasn't getting the thick dusting. I cut up some of my older WWs, VERY lightly misted them with water and used them with UQD. Little to no dusting! At this point I've concluded the plusher, fluffier MFs were contributing to the worst static.


Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
For what it's worth, you can also ground out your car, this isn't a perfect solution but it can help. I've used Jumper cables because they're a great conduit for electricity and already have a built in clamp at both ends.

Clamp one end to car and clamp the other end to something that's grounded to the ground like a metal water pipe or a steel stake in the yard, use your imagination.

Dunno if that'd work too well for vehicles with a lot of painted fiberglass, would it?

TL
 
I also have a black car and fight the dreaded static monster (everything shows worse on black!!) I have found in my case that when applying my LSP that if I use a real plush MF towel like the Cobra 530 it seems to generate more static then if I use my Cobra waffle weave guzzlers. I now use my WW's not only to dry my car but also to wipe off (GENTLY) my LSP. I still use my 530's for removing/buffing paint cleansers, sealants,waxes,etc.; but I now use my WW's to (GENTLY) remove my LSP. This seems to cut down on the static as well as what looks like very small pieces of lint that are left behind with the 530's but not the WW's. This works so well for me that I have orderd another set of WW's just for the LSP.

Shine On!!!


Interesting thread. I've been running into horrific dust from static on a new Vivid Black Harley. After a couple hundred mile ride on relatively clean roads it resembles the thick crud I pick up riding in March or April in NE Ohio when all the salt dust is still all over the roads. Dressers tend to have that station-wagon effect where huge amounts of road grime blow forward from the back and coat the rear of the bike. I first noticed the increase of really heavy dust accumulations when I started doing UQD wipedowns and using UQW after a wash in an attempt to keep that new, pristine black finish the way it came out of the box. I used my fluffiest Cobras for the task to try and prevent marring as Harley's black is as soft and miserable as any you'll find.



Same conclusion I came to. I began using some less-plush MFs and the dust attraction decreased noticeably.



I noticed whether I used PB's S&W, UQD or others or UQW there wasn't much difference until I started using my less plush MFs. I then noticed after a wet wash and dry using WW I wasn't getting the thick dusting. I cut up some of my older WWs, VERY lightly misted them with water and used them with UQD. Little to no dusting! At this point I've concluded the plusher, fluffier MFs were contributing to the worst static.





TL

:whs::whs::whs::whs::whs::iagree::iagree::iagree:
 
I know this is an old thread. But I am having problems with static. I am about to apply WGDGPS and I got lint and some light WG glaze dust. Having a hard time time removing it before the sealant. Grounding the car is unlikely. I don't really want to use plain water. Mext option is a qd wipe down? My question is, the only qd I have is one I can make up using WG rinsless solution. If I use this will it leave anything behind that will interfere with sealant bonding to the paint.
 
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