Flex 3401 DA Tips please

CEE DOG

CEE DOG

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Can anybody with experience offer me some advice on how you would handle the Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher in comparison to how you handle a more traditional DA like the Griots ROP. I would also be thankful for any tips in general related to the Flex using Menzerna and Wolfgang polishes with CCS pads.

Thanks in advance for all of your time and advice,
C
Im the MAN
 
Treat like any other Da with the exception it's more powerfull then the other da's.Still work a smaller area at a time ,Do a test spot and be prepared for it to correct swirls faster.Also don't use any pads that are smaller then the backing plate.Also i suggest that you lube the felt pad on the backing plate with some 3in1oil.Other then that you shouldn't have any problems
 
Harleyguy said:
Treat like any other Da with the exception it's more powerfull then the other da's.Still work a smaller area at a time ,Do a test spot and be prepared for it to correct swirls faster.Also don't use any pads that are smaller then the backing plate.Also i suggest that you lube the felt pad on the backing plate with some 3in1oil.Other then that you shouldn't have any problems
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And be sure to tighten the backing plate bolt.:buffing:
 
I went from using the older version Porter Cable to the Flex. The only significant difference I noticed right away was the need for TWO hands. Occassionally I'll reach out far on a big vehicle and do a one handed stint. But it's definitely a machine designed to be held on to! Much better balance with one hand on the bale handle.
 
I love my flex and will tell you from my previous experience with a PC, this is hands down the best DA I've owned. I also have the Griots 3" ROP and while it is great for it's intended purpose, the flex is phenomenal. I'd recommend taking a look at gloss-it.net and look at their 5.75 flat pads.

As for the flex use, I would +1 what some others have already said. You will still want to do a small section (2' x 2') at a time, maybe a bit bigger because the flex will correct quicker then a PC, but slower then a rotary, except with less chance of burning paint. Look for Mike's article on when paint gets too hot. I can't remember the name of the thread right now, but it talks about our natural instinct to remove our hand if something is too hot. He uses this as an example of when the paint is too hot underneath where you are buffing.

As for other tips and tricks. The flex is pretty straight forward. Work in overlapping fashion, across and down, then down and across. Hopefully that makes sense

>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<
>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<
V^V^V^V^
V^V^V^V^
V^V^V^V^
V^V^V^V^
V^V^V^V^

Repeat.
 
The biggest difference is the amount of pressure and using both hands. You just need to apply enough pressure to hold the pad flat against the paint and guide it.
 
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