Pad/Polish combination on PC and Rotary

Bonifax

Bonifax

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Well today I decided it was time to use my rotary (I've been using the PC for three years now), and I found out that you can get great results with very different combination of pad/polish than the ones used on the PC due to the greater speed/temp generated by the rotary.

Using two test spots PC vs. Rotary the results are:

1.I used a white LC polishing pad with PB's SSR 1 to remove some medium swirls on my Ford Fusion (white) using the rotary at 1500 rpm.
2.To achieve similar (but not better) results using the PC I had to use an orange light cutting pad with PB's SSR 2.5 at 6 (PC speed).

My conclusion is that you can get awesome results by using the rotary with a less aggressive combination (pad/polish) than the PC.
Obviously I finished the entire car with the rotary buffer using the white LC polishing pad with SSR1 but here is the trick, afterwards I used my trusty PC with Megs yellow polishing pad and Menz Final Polish to leave a very glossy and almost flawless finish; so you can use the rotary AND the PC to leave a perfect finish ;)
 
I just found this out first hand myself. I have a Flex 3401 (DA) and just got a Flex L3403 (Rotary). My example is 3M Machine Polish w/ white polishing pad, the polish had never impressed me when used with my 3401, but when I tried the polish with the Rotary (first time ever using a Rotary) I was very impressed. It cut well and finished exceptionally. I can't wait to get some more time with the Rotary and try out some other polish pad combos! :props:
 
I use that combo alot! I love compounding with the rotary and then finishing it up with my flex. I will have a review of the new "heavy duty foam backing plate" I just got it and it's similar to the 3m one you see alot. I'll do a side by side comparison. That bp would allow pc users with 5.5 pads to use them with the rotary as well. Have fun playing with the rotary you will love it more and more everytime you use it
 
Bonifax said:
I found out that you can get great results with very different combination of pad/polish than the ones used on the PC due to the greater speed/temp generated by the rotary.
Click to expand...


For as long as I've been on discussion forums I continually see people state that heat is needed or required in order to break down abrasives, or to heat the paint up during the process yada yada yada...

Here's the truth and I've been posting this as long as people have been posting heat is a good thing or a necessary compoent...

Mike Phillips said:
When it comes to machine compounding or polishing, heat is an unwanted by-product of the process not a necessary component...
Click to expand...


If you're working a diminishing abrasive product, it's pressure over time that breaks down the abrasives, the heat is a result of the pressure over time


So don't get caught or trapped in the mindset that heat is what's working for you when you use a rotary buffer...


:xyxthumbs:
 
I can never get around the idea that heat in a car is a good thing. Heat means friction, friction means damage, damage could mean new paint job. There's a reason why polishing through the clear is called burning the paint, not freezing. ;)
 
Mike thanks for clarifying the temperature perspective regarding the rotary buffer.
 
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