Optimum Poli-Seal, whats your favorite pad and speed combo?

Make it shine!

Make it shine!

New member
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
92
Reaction score
0
I just bought Poli-Seal to replace D151, I tried it out yesterday on my car and was really thrilled with the results. It went on smooth, worked in well and wiped off extremely easy!! I used a PC, orange flat LC 5.5" on speed 4.5. What are your favorite combo's DA or rotary?
 
Speed 6 5.5ccs white or org pad. But I'm pretty interested in using it with hydrotech pads if I ever order them. Hows it compare with 151 for you? I was considering moving in the other direction... poliseal is the only aio I have played with much.
 
i just got this as well. i used it with a blue foam pad with no cut on my tailgate of my truck . the paint was in great shape with very minor marks. and useing my p/c and a soft foam pad . it worked great poliseal just melted in the paint and removed some of the light marks. and left a great finish :xyxthumbs: i love this stuff.
 
Da Fats said:
Speed 6 5.5ccs white or org pad. But I'm pretty interested in using it with hydrotech pads if I ever order them. Hows it compare with 151 for you? I was considering moving in the other direction... poliseal is the only aio I have played with much.
Click to expand...
I would stay with poliseal, I found D151 a hassle to use. Considering I was using alot, most of my DD clients choose the AIO for price and the results for such a quick job. I found poliseal went about 15-30 minutes quicker then D151 with more slickness and shine in the finish. I can't speak for durability yet, as after 1 days it still going strong!!:props:

Has anyone used a rotary if so what pad and speed combo. I was going to try white flat LC at about 1000 on my wifes car and see how the results are. Ofcourse I won't dare use it on a clients car without playing wiht it on my own first!!Feed back please
 
i only use it with my PC and use green CCS 5.5 or 4" green cyclo pads. i've gone one step lighter (gray) before depending on the clear.

side note for poli-seal n00bs: the key to poli-seal is using the least possible amount possible - 4 pea sized dots will go very far with the bigger pads. it's amazing stuff.
 
Anything softer then a white pad just seems to soak up way to much product for my liking. White on a DA finishes out great. If trying it with a rotary I'd stick to nothing more then LC grey pads anything more aggressive will cause halograms
 
What do you put on after poli-seal? Wax? Opti-Seal?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
radpp16 said:
What do you put on after poli-seal? Wax? Opti-Seal?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If you are looking to stay with optimum then optimum car wax or opti-seal would be the two products to consider.
 
no need to put anything after poli-seal imo...until the protection disappears. but that's me. i don't think it will hurt anything, but i think with opti-seal, because it's solvent-based, it will basically dissolve the poli-seal protection and re-distribute it and/or exchange for the opti-seal. i guess if you used opti-seal as a drying aid during maintenance washes, it will reboot the protection. but purposely putting opti-seal on right after using poli-seal seems silly.

with OCW, i think that it will not do that but the poli-seal will prevent a good substrate for the OCW to stick to so anything you gain w/ OCW will disappear soon.

but my opinion is why add something to poli-seal when you are doing the AIO to cut out the last step already!
 
I guess this would be a better place for this since he bumped this one too.

It can cut pretty well and finishes nice.

Test spot with Poli-Seal and Orange LC Flat pad.

148c467a6030b881405bcc55988fe5e9.jpg


Cleaning up haze with a White LC Flat pad after compounding.

7304aeb87102205722c3baa7e2208f75.jpg
 
builthatch said:
no need to put anything after poli-seal imo...until the protection disappears. but that's me. i don't think it will hurt anything, but i think with opti-seal, because it's solvent-based, it will basically dissolve the poli-seal protection and re-distribute it and/or exchange for the opti-seal. i guess if you used opti-seal as a drying aid during maintenance washes, it will reboot the protection. but purposely putting opti-seal on right after using poli-seal seems silly.

with OCW, i think that it will not do that but the poli-seal will prevent a good substrate for the OCW to stick to so anything you gain w/ OCW will disappear soon.

but my opinion is why add something to poli-seal when you are doing the AIO to cut out the last step already!
Click to expand...

Right. But some folks get that warm and fuzzy feeling topping an AIO.
 
How are you guys liking the protection from Poli-Seal?
 
I think I've gotten around 6 months out of it, but I'm not positive. Just don't remember. The truck I used it on sat most of the time exposed. I would do a strong Dawn wash every once in a while with a couple of rinse wipes to check it.

Here's another

BOSS Microfiber Pad

6b35dca888875bca892e0db2a6897093.jpg


66ddd9f16771e60a03cfb6bcc37bb3a4.jpg


7f37912afb9df2f53430199e23751ffc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
radpp16 said:
What do you put on after poli-seal?
Wax? Opti-Seal?
Click to expand...
•I've used several combinations...
with no perceptible harm ever
occurring to any vehicles. Here
are a few of them:
-Poli-Seal neat; done.
-Topped only with Opti-Seal; done.
-Topped only with OCW; done.
-Topped, beginning with Opti-Seal;
then, 12-24 hours afterwards: OCW;
done.

•For maintenance "down-the-road":
-Meguiar's D114 (Why? I don't want
"anything left behind" that could
possibly despoil my LSP-ing efforts).



Bob
 
From the website: "For deeper scratches, use#Optimum Polish#or#Optimum Compound#prior to#Poli-Seal."

Which is likely more newbie user friendly with a PC?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Optimum Polish II and Poli-Seal are both very easy to use.

If you need a compound, I would go with something else. Compound II cuts and finishes well but it is not the easiest to use.

I have not tried the Hyper versions of the Optimum products.

Griots Fast Correcting Cream is very nice to work with for a compound. The regular Correcting Cream is nice too, just less cut.
 
Mantilgh said:
Optimum Polish II and Poli-Seal are both very easy to use.

If you need a compound, I would go with something else. Compound II cuts and finishes well but it is not the easiest to use.

I have not tried the Hyper versions of the Optimum products.

Griots Fast Correcting Cream is very nice to work with for a compound. The regular Correcting Cream is nice too, just less cut.
Click to expand...
Do you think polish II and poli-seal have same correction ability?

Is it dumb to do Polish II + PC LC Orange followed by Poli-Seal + PC LC Orange?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Technically the polish should have just a little more cut.

I say using it with the same composition pad would probably be redundant and it might not make any noticeable difference. You could tape off and do a test spot just to be sure. If you had a lighter cut pad to try Poli-Seal with, it might give you a little more gloss.

I have had the orange pad leave a light haze on some paints. Changing to a different polish still left a haze, so my options were to drop down in pad aggressiveness and be happy with the results, or compound and then follow with a polish and light cut polishing pad.
 
Mantilgh said:
Technically the polish should have just a little more cut.

I say using it with the same composition pad would probably be redundant and it might not make any noticeable difference. You could tape off and do a test spot just to be sure. If you had a lighter cut pad to try Poli-Seal with, it might give you a little more gloss.

I have had the orange pad leave a light haze on some paints. Changing to a different polish still left a haze, so my options were to drop down in pad aggressiveness and be happy with the results, or compound and then follow with a polish and light cut polishing pad.
Click to expand...
Can you comment on this correction scenario:
Optimum Compound (PC LC Orange) + Poli - Seal ( PC LC White) versus Polish II (PC LC Orange) + Poli-Seal ( PC LC White).

Not sure of speed settings.

Car is alpine white. My usual routine is Poli-Seal + OCW, but I want to get better correction and stick with optimum products without damaging paint.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Alpine White, I'm assuming it's a BMW and on the hard side.

I would probably move up to their compound if Poli-Seal is not cutting it and Poli-Seal should clean up any haze if it leaves any. If the paint is hard their compound may finish really well, but a test spot after with Poli-Seal checked with good lighting will let you know for sure.

An orange LC pad using Compound II followed up with a white LC pad using Poli-Seal should be fine. I have used the same process on other hard paints. The second pic(dark blue Ford Van hood) I posted on the first page of this thread was done with mostly orange LC Flat pads (some yellows too on the really bad areas) using Compound II with a little BOSS Correcting Cream mixed in to help lengthen working time, then I used Poli-Seal on a white LC Flat pad to clean up the haze left behind.

Speed setting for the PC, I'd say crank it up and only back it off if it (the compound) is giving you problems...drying out on you or over heating the pads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top