Powergloss or M105 ?

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cobraa

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I started using Menz Powergloss because I hate how ssr3 with yellow CCS finish. It takes me like 3 step to fully remove the holograms and such imperfection.

So, I decide to buy Powergloss and heard that the wool pad was better than the yellow CCS.

Did 2 car with it and .. I can say it finish nicier but IT'S SO DUSTY!! Unbeliveable haha! Should I try with a yellow or orange pad?

Would M105 works better? Please help.

I also have a bottle of xmt 4 but I have a feeling it's just like ssr3.
 
M105 is dusts quite a bit too.

Pick up a bottle of Megs Ultimate Compound. In my limited experience (I rarely need a compound. 95% of what I work on are cars that I maintain for clients.) UC has probably 80-90% of the cut that M105 has with much less dust. Quite cheap as well.
 
I think the Optimum spray compound is the sh*t.. 30$ for 18oz is a lot more than SSR3 or others compound but oh well.. if it can solve dust problem and finish nicier, it's certainly a plus and saving times.
 
I would go for the M105. Too bad AG does not have the new Fast Gloss from Menzerna. It has better cut and better finish.
 
Dibbuz said:
I would go for the M105. Too bad AG does not have the new Fast Gloss from Menzerna. It has better cut and better finish.
Click to expand...

What is this "new Fast Gloss"? I don't see it on the Menzerna website.
 
Irish said:
M105 is dusts quite a bit too.
Click to expand...


I did product testing for about 2 solid hours yesterday, all machine buffing and for the testing I used M105 and had,

  • Zero dusting
  • Long buffing cycle
  • Wipe-off was a breeze...

I was applying with a Porter Cable 7424XP


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I did product testing for about 2 solid hours yesterday, all machine buffing and for the testing I used M105 and had,

  • Zero dusting
  • Long buffing cycle
  • Wipe-off was a breeze...

I was applying with a Porter Cable 7424XP


:)
Click to expand...

Please share how you did this.
 
S2K said:
Please share how you did this.
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2nded. When I used it last on my car looked like it'd been snowing.

Misting with a QD? You're holding out on us Mike. Feed back please
 
cobraa said:
I also have a bottle of xmt 4 but I have a feeling it's just like ssr3.
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I just felt both XMT #4 and Poorboys SSR3 and XMT is a lot more abrasive. It pretty much feel like sand in a bottle. You can feel the abrasives in the SSR3 but they doesn't feel the same as the XMT #4

Also, and this is important, the label for the SSR3 says right on it the cleaners and abrasives break down and you work the product.

XMT #4 uses mechanical abrasives that don't break down...

Huge difference in cutting ability and finish results after wipe-off...

I used the XMT #4 to remove all the oxidation off the sides of my boat as I needed something that would cut like nobody's business.


When I started, the sides of the boat were whitish with oxidation and as dull as concrete... now look at the gloss and reflection on the side of the boat...

StarlineDeville0001.jpg




XMT #4 is a "tool" and has it's best uses, I like having in my tool chest.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I did product testing for about 2 solid hours yesterday, all machine buffing and for the testing I used M105 and had,

  • Zero dusting
  • Long buffing cycle
  • Wipe-off was a breeze...

I was applying with a Porter Cable 7424XP


:)
Click to expand...

but you also said, not long ago, in the thread talking about a new version of M105 that optimum compound spray what THE new standard. no?
 
S2K said:
What is this "new Fast Gloss"? I don't see it on the Menzerna website.
Click to expand...
Fast Gloss is the new Menzerna S500, after the power gloss came the S100 and a bit after that they came up with the S500.

They send us (I work at a foreign carcarewebshop) a sample and I love it.
The smell is bit of a bummer but it works great!

We have at under a private label now, i haven't seen it under Menzerna label yet.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I did product testing for about 2 solid hours yesterday, all machine buffing and for the testing I used M105 and had,

  • Zero dusting
  • Long buffing cycle
  • Wipe-off was a breeze...

I was applying with a Porter Cable 7424XP


:)
Click to expand...

air conditioned show rooms are not always available Feed back please
 
cobraa said:
but you also said, not long ago, in the thread talking about a new version of M105 that optimum compound spray what THE new standard. no?
Click to expand...

It may be the new standard for the industry-at-large, but no one polish or compound can be the end-all be-all product to fit every situation. That's why for a professional or anyone else dealing with a variety of different finishes that have a variety of different problems it is valuable to have a variety of products at your disposal.

I think that's what Mike is getting at.
 
i used M105 for the first time recently and had no issues with dusting and had a good amount of working time but it was a huge pain to wipe off. one of the links here helped me in priming the pad using the polish.
 
The short cut answer is of course to have both. If you plan on doing a large variety of cars, then you will actually need both. The truth of the matter is that you will probably use M105 for 90-95% of your jobs. BUT, there will be that one job where 105 does not do it. I know it has happened to me. Bear in mind, I use a rotary and wool pads, so I'm doing aggressive work at that stage. There have been a very few occasions where the 105 did not do the job and I had to step up to PG. PG and wool is a lethal, lethal combo. You're removing some serious cc with it, so tread lightly and use a PTG to know what your limits are. It will remove the faults you need. The other option of course is to wet sand the imperfection and correct it via 105/wool. Hope that helps.
 
richy said:
The short cut answer is of course to have both. If you plan on doing a large variety of cars, then you will actually need both. The truth of the matter is that you will probably use M105 for 90-95% of your jobs. BUT, there will be that one job where 105 does not do it. I know it has happened to me. Bear in mind, I use a rotary and wool pads, so I'm doing aggressive work at that stage. There have been a very few occasions where the 105 did not do the job and I had to step up to PG. PG and wool is a lethal, lethal combo. You're removing some serious cc with it, so tread lightly and use a PTG to know what your limits are. It will remove the faults you need. The other option of course is to wet sand the imperfection and correct it via 105/wool. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

I was able to remove 5microns on an audi tt 2001 with wool and PG. tested with defalsko ptg.

Thanks for the comments
 
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