jlb85
New member
- Mar 31, 2008
- 734
- 0
Sorry for posting another writeup so soon, but we have a few more scheduled for soon and I had to get this thing posted
This vehicle had been painted last year, and we were waiting for an appropriate amount of time before tackling the paint, and better weather. Unfortunately, the owner did drive the vehicle and “cleaned and waxed it” somewhat. He ended up hammering the paint so bad I had to spend over 25 hours just on the paint. I did not touch the jambs, not even the bumpers. I was tight on time, and we finished on time for a non-judged show somewhere far, so I had to work on it very late at night after other details. My neighbors love me, I know it!!!
The car looks fantastic from any angle. Almost all the trim is original. It has new rubber seals, refurbished original engine and interior, all proper and correct, all done by the owner. The side markers are exclusive to the '68 and cost a very nice dance if you can find them. Its these little things that I feel make or break the detailing experience for collectors. A detailer that understands the work involved in finding such pieces and cares for them and their integrity is essential to a great outcome and a happy customer. Insurance can cover any dollar amount, but nothing can replace the work and sentimental value of a project of this magnitude and beyond. It is my highest priority to maintain the vehicles integrity. This is also the 4th car I have worked on for this owner. Some areas on this car would remain with RIDS because simply because it is not my race to chase, and one less RIDS less would not increase the value of the car any, while any damage would decrease it significantly. The areas under the side markers and underneath the rain gutters are such areas, which are not visible even from 2 or 3 feet away.
The owner enjoys taking his girls for a ride. Here he is dropping off his "older" girl with his younger girl in the passenger seat (with the proper booster seat!).
Here are some quick pictures of the interior. We did not do any cleaning on the interior except KAIO on the windows as part of my "you will never have to touch this car again" approach for this owner. I wanted everything to clean off effortlessly to help avoid future damage. I love the plaid, the wheel, and the trim. Again, most of this interior is original and in pristine condition.
Ready to start with the cleaning, wheels first. P21S, the most safe of wheel cleaners, was used to clean the faces as much as possible. The barrels are virtually impossible to reach without removing the wheels, and are not visible at all on the car. I was not going to be aggressive on these original wheels. Again, no increase in value for the vehicle = no taking unnecessary risks.
Washing consisted of our 9-step wash: Foam and dwell, Rinse, Foam and wash, Rinse, Clay, Foam and Wash, Rinse, then dry with Cobra MF and the leaf blower.
Washing should always be from the top down, working around the vehicle. The top half first:
Then the bottom half. This way the dirtiest areas of the vehicle do not contaminate the cleanest areas of the vehicle as you move the wash mitt around the paint.
Mild clay only on this paint, although it probably would not have made the paint any worse. Here we are using Detailed Image fine clay.
Next was to mask or remove any items that could interfere with the correction, like emblems. I love these old school emblems that are bolted on. The do require special sealing to avoid water intrusion, though (not pictured). Again, understanding of the vehicle's strong and weak point is essential to a proper correction on a classic of this caliber. Not replacing this sealing around each nut on each letter can result in rust down the road. No shortcuts. Do it right.
This vehicle had been painted last year, and we were waiting for an appropriate amount of time before tackling the paint, and better weather. Unfortunately, the owner did drive the vehicle and “cleaned and waxed it” somewhat. He ended up hammering the paint so bad I had to spend over 25 hours just on the paint. I did not touch the jambs, not even the bumpers. I was tight on time, and we finished on time for a non-judged show somewhere far, so I had to work on it very late at night after other details. My neighbors love me, I know it!!!
The car looks fantastic from any angle. Almost all the trim is original. It has new rubber seals, refurbished original engine and interior, all proper and correct, all done by the owner. The side markers are exclusive to the '68 and cost a very nice dance if you can find them. Its these little things that I feel make or break the detailing experience for collectors. A detailer that understands the work involved in finding such pieces and cares for them and their integrity is essential to a great outcome and a happy customer. Insurance can cover any dollar amount, but nothing can replace the work and sentimental value of a project of this magnitude and beyond. It is my highest priority to maintain the vehicles integrity. This is also the 4th car I have worked on for this owner. Some areas on this car would remain with RIDS because simply because it is not my race to chase, and one less RIDS less would not increase the value of the car any, while any damage would decrease it significantly. The areas under the side markers and underneath the rain gutters are such areas, which are not visible even from 2 or 3 feet away.
The owner enjoys taking his girls for a ride. Here he is dropping off his "older" girl with his younger girl in the passenger seat (with the proper booster seat!).
Here are some quick pictures of the interior. We did not do any cleaning on the interior except KAIO on the windows as part of my "you will never have to touch this car again" approach for this owner. I wanted everything to clean off effortlessly to help avoid future damage. I love the plaid, the wheel, and the trim. Again, most of this interior is original and in pristine condition.
Ready to start with the cleaning, wheels first. P21S, the most safe of wheel cleaners, was used to clean the faces as much as possible. The barrels are virtually impossible to reach without removing the wheels, and are not visible at all on the car. I was not going to be aggressive on these original wheels. Again, no increase in value for the vehicle = no taking unnecessary risks.
Washing consisted of our 9-step wash: Foam and dwell, Rinse, Foam and wash, Rinse, Clay, Foam and Wash, Rinse, then dry with Cobra MF and the leaf blower.
Washing should always be from the top down, working around the vehicle. The top half first:
Then the bottom half. This way the dirtiest areas of the vehicle do not contaminate the cleanest areas of the vehicle as you move the wash mitt around the paint.
Mild clay only on this paint, although it probably would not have made the paint any worse. Here we are using Detailed Image fine clay.
Next was to mask or remove any items that could interfere with the correction, like emblems. I love these old school emblems that are bolted on. The do require special sealing to avoid water intrusion, though (not pictured). Again, understanding of the vehicle's strong and weak point is essential to a proper correction on a classic of this caliber. Not replacing this sealing around each nut on each letter can result in rust down the road. No shortcuts. Do it right.