wool pads

jamores23

jamores23

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im looking for some good wool pads for my rotary, Could you achieve the same result with a less aggressive pad but with multiple passes? I just want to be able to compound and remove defects quicker . any suggestions on what are some good wool pads?
 
i heard richy mention something about tuff buff wool pads but i have yet to try them myself. im in the same boat as you so im interested in hearing the replies
 
yeah im tired of having to compound 2-3 times over one spot using my DA with megs mf and 105, it is a great combo but sometimes wont get all the rids out on one pass.
 
I just did my motorhome with an Edge blue wool. Only used one side. It just barely got to the red indicators. So the other side is still new. It got some tough treatment too. It got cleaned with a spur tool almost every new section. I'm pleased, and won't hesitate to buy more of these. Only downside is you better pay attention to what you go under. The top of the pad will be wool too and if it catches it will move you over a foot or two.
 
Jimmie said:
Only downside is you better pay attention to what you go under. The top of the pad will be wool too and if it catches it will move you over a foot or two.
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That sounds like the voice of experience ... :nomore:

that must have sucked!
 
what do you mean go under, like compounding under the rear view mirror on the door ? or go over?
 
Exactly, anything that your moving toward from below like mirror; luggage rack; etc. I got it from an awning bracket.
 
I have 4 different wool pads I use. Here they are listed in terms of aggressiveness from least to most:
1) purple foamed wool
2) Megs burg wool
3) 3M white wool
4) Tuf Buff black wool

The 3M and TB are pretty close to one another in terms of aggressiveness. The thing with wool (normally) is that it's messy. It makes your car and area look like you've had fornicating sheep. LOL. The breakthrough is with the TB wool pads. They don't shed. That makes the cleanup a lot easier and they still cut like an ex-wife's words. Hope that helps.
 
richy said:
I have 4 different wool pads I use. Here they are listed in terms of aggressiveness from least to most:
1) purple foamed wool
2) Megs burg wool
3) 3M white wool
4) Tuf Buff black wool

The 3M and TB are pretty close to one another in terms of aggressiveness. The thing with wool (normally) is that it's messy. It makes your car and area look like you've had fornicating sheep. LOL. The breakthrough is with the TB wool pads. They don't shed. That makes the cleanup a lot easier and they still cut like an ex-wife's words. Hope that helps.
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I use Tuff Buff wool pads as well, they are my go too for sure. I agree they dont shed, cut well and actually finish down pretty well. I rarely use my megs solo wool pads. They shed and make your car, well Richy you put it best, like sheep just fornicated in your garage and on your car.
 
i got purple foam wool but my megs mf disc and m105 cuts better than it IMO , i think im going to get some tuff buffs and megs burg wool
 
Jimmie said:
Exactly, anything that your moving toward from below like mirror; luggage rack; etc. I got it from an awning bracket.
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I got it from the light bar above the cab of an ambulance. The rotary socked me in the chin and knocked me right off my ladder. Luckily I landed on my feet though.

To the OP, the 3M SuperBuff 2+2 is a very nice, not so aggressive, flexible, non shedding wool pad that runs cool and finishes very nicely. It'll set you back $45 with the adapter but they last for years under rough service. Well worth the money.
 
what speeds would you use menz powerr gloss or m105 via rot/wool ??
 
1200 to 1800 RPM depending on the paint and the shape of the panels. On softer paints and curved panels I use the lower speeds and sometimes crank up the speed on flat panels with harder paint.
 
would you start it out at 1200 then bump it up to 1500 or 1600 and drop it back down to 1000?
 
I fully prime the entire face of my wool pad with product then turn it on at 600 RPM to spread the compound in a 2 foot working area then bump it directly up to the speed that I will be working at until the working cycle is complete.

M-105 doesn't give you a long enough working cycle to go through all the speed changes. I keep a water bottle handy and mist the work area very lightly to reactivate the compound for a second set of passes if needed. If not needed, I mist a new section with the water and hit that with the reactivated compound. This cuts down on product use significantly.
 
jamores23 said:
thanks dave always helpful
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You're welcome. I should mention that the reactivated compound always seems to have a little more bite than the freshly primed pad does and seems to correct even faster. After working the reactivated compound I spur the pad well and then re prime the pad with M-105 to start a new section. You'll want to be wearing a dust mask when using this pad/product/technique.
 
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