Boat hazing

Got any pics? 920's a good cleaner but won't pull out rough oxidation to well. Might need to step up the aggression if it's been neglected.

Yea a pic would help bigtime then try and get it as close as possible to the defects maybe from different angles

leadthrower21 said:

I'll try to get some tomorrow. Something I forgot to add, on the unpolished areas, it appears clearer than the polished area, albeit with more swirls/water spots.

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Ahh now that you say that it brings back memories of the first time I used 920, try this, take a mf with a very small amount of 920 on it, rub it in a small circle and immediately take it off and see if it's clear now. If this fixes it let me know and I'll tell you how to fix the rest of the boat in a hurry

you need to use a wool pad and a lower grit comp. also you can wet sand it with 1000 grit then buff . leave sand papper in h2o for 1 hr before sanding and use a block.west marine as 800 grit comp its called buff magic best you call get its pink and can get a small can for 25.00. when there get some pro polish sealer .20.00

leadthrower21 said:

Hello, I have a 2001 Mastercraft X-30 in red/white that I'm trying to clean up a bit. I've detailed a few cars with great results; but I'm having trouble getting a clear finish looking through the reflection at my work lights.

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Kind of like this?






Before you compound it, if the oxidation is light, I would suggest trying a one-step cleaner/wax with your DA Polisher with either a foam cutting pad or polishing pad. Also, place a tape-line down the side of the hull and only work on one side and see if you can dial in the right speed and pressure to restore a clear, high gloss finish.

It seems to me that sometimes gel-coats and old lacquer paints react best to high speed buffing.

Any good cleaner/wax would probably be good to try, Meguiar's #6 or the M50 if you have them... XMT 360, Mother's cleaner/wax, Optimum Poli-Seal, or any reputable cleaner/wax. Preferably a liquid.

If that doesn't do anything then like master detailer posted, try a light compound with a foam cutting pad on your DA Polisher.

I have not tired the Microfiber DA Pads on gel-coats yet but I have my boat here today so maybe I'll give it a try. Might not be able to get to it till tomorrow though.

I'm not sure if this list is up to date, I posted the below article on 02-03-2010 but these are protection products that also clean.


Cleaner/Waxes
Menzerna Sealing Wax APO 60
Collinite Paste Sapphire Auto Wax #73SS
Mothers California Gold Original Formula Carnauba Cleaner Wax
Poorboy’s World Polish with Carnauba (BLUE)
Poorboy's World Polish with 100% Carnauba
Collinite Liquid Sapphire Auto Wax SS216
Dodo Juice Need For Speed Cleaner Wax


Cleaner/Sealants
XMT 360 All In One Cleaner Wax
Griot's Garage One-Step Sealant
Klasse All-In-One Polish
Duragloss Polish & Cleaner 101
Finish Kare 215 One Step Cleaner & Surface Sealant
Finish Kare 2180 Ultra Poly Wipe Sealant Conditioner
Optimum Poli-Seal
Mother's FX Synwax Paste
Mother's FX Synwax Liquid
Mother's Reflections Advanced Car Wax
Wheel Wax Glacier Polish & Sealant
3M One Step Cleaner Wax


Taken from here,

The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax

Subtitle: How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:

I have not tired the Microfiber DA Pads on gel-coats yet but I have my boat here today so maybe I'll give it a try. Might not be able to get to it till tomorrow though.

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The mf pads work great, if there's serious oxidation the pink d300 will look like it's staining the gelcoat, after your done making your first completed section pass, just clean the pad add more product and keep cutting, once all the oxidation is gone you will notice the d300 wipes off easily now.

Perfections said:

The mf pads work great, if there's serious oxidation the pink D300 will look like it's staining the gel-coat, after your done making your first completed section pass, just clean the pad add more product and keep cutting, once all the oxidation is gone you will notice the D300 wipes off easily now.

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Figured as much... just haven't tried it yet... probably somewhat similar to working on oxidized single stage paint.

I did buff out the land yacht which has single stage paint using the Microfiber DA Correction System and it worked really well.


If you look closely, the paint on the passenger side fender is clear and glossy, that's because it was repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat system, the rest of the car has an older single stage paint that has dulled from oxidation and lack of any regular maintenance.

One of my goals was to maximize the gloss and clarity of the single stage paint surrounding the passenger fender so the car would have a uniform, clear, high gloss appearance.

I'll try to do the write-up for this car in the near future, this belonged to the Caddy King and I've heard he's since sold it.


Before

After



Kind of a boat...

Mike Phillips said:

I'll try to do the write-up for this car in the near future, this belonged to the Caddy King and I've heard he's since sold it.

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Always a pleasure to read your write ups, always looking to learn something new and your always so detailed I usually do

Mike Phillips said:

Kind of a boat...

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Lol for sure!

The very first time I used 920 on a very slightly oxidized boat I noticed it wasnt very clear compared to the untreated side, which surprised me as I thought 920 would work kinda like a cleaner wax. But in the tradition of collinite even the cleaner must be applied SUPER thin and best applied in decently small areas then taken off. If you wanna clear it up either reapply in small areas thin or just run over it with a cleaner wax like megs marine cw which is the fastest way

The hazy dull look is what I expected, thanks for the pictures. Also, I edited your post and changed the tags from URL tags ti IMG tags and that way the pictures show up.

Here's an article I wrote that shows you how to insert an image into a post using the URL Address. There's pictures that show what to click on.

How to insert an image from your photo gallery into your message


The finish quality isn't due to oxidation, (I don't think), it's just how some gel-coats react to polishing and waxing. I would get the cleaner/wax, use a polishing pad, not a finishing pad, you want a pad with some stoutness, and then use a one-step cleaner/wax.

If you have a 5.5" pad, use it. Set the speed to 5.0 to 6.0, you mentioned you had a PC 7424, you didn't include the XP if you have the second generation. If you have a first gen then put the speed setting on 6.0, if you have the XP you can use 5-6, point being is you want the pad rotating and oscillating as you work the cleaner/wax, not just vibrating and jiggling.

If you haven't marked your backing plate with a black line using a permanent sharpie market than do so, this will help you to visually see if the pad is rotating.

Then shake the cleaner/wax up well and use it wet, that means don't skimp on product, don't overuse it but don't skimp, us an ample amount, you should always see a wet film on the surface.

The tackle a section about 2' x 2' square. Spread the product out and then use firm pressure to work the section one or two section passes and then decrease your pressure and go over the section 2-3 more times using a brisk arm speed.

Arm Speed = How fast you move the polisher over the surface

I don't know if any of the above will work but that's what I would try. I don't know why but some gel-coats and old lacquer finishes react best to high speed when it comes to creating clarity and shine.