GaulGw
08-09-2011, 08:25 PM
I am fairly new at this but have spent the last few months reading as much as I could find and watching videos on this and other sites. I have 2 cars that I am looking to detail and I would like to get some expert opinions on my plan of attack.
2001 Black Lexus LS430 – Daily Driver
Hood, roof, and trunk just repainted (very poorly) and the other panels are original paint.
Car is currently in a shop for major paint correction on the re-spray and overall detailing. Car should be swirl free when I get it back, but has some areas that might not be fully correctable. I can probably live with that for my daily driver, but I want it to look as good as possible. If it really starts to bother me, I will have to get the whole thing repainted, which is way more money than I want to spend.
Here is my plan for this vehicle to maintain the finish at the high level I expect it to have when I get it back from the shop.
Routine cleaning with Meguiar’s Wash and Wax or Ultima Waterless Wash, depending on how dirty and weather conditions. I have a microfiber covered sponge for the Wash and Wax (two buckets) or microfiber towels for the Waterless wash.
Monthly waxing with Ultimate Wax followed by Ultimate Quick Detailer. The heat and (prior to this year) rain in Houston seems to take away the wax pretty quickly, so I try to wax every month or 2.
Every 6 months, or as needed, clay and polish with Ultimate Polish, followed by Ultimate Wax. (Is this too often for Ultimate Polish? I tend to keep cars a long time and I can see this car getting polished with Ultimate Polish 20+ times at this rate.)
1967 Red Mustang Convertible – Garage Queen
Complete re-spray 20 years ago with single stage paint.
I have been using SwirlX, Deep Crystal Cleaner, or Ultimate Polish followed by Gold Class or NXT wax by hand, and Quick Detailer/Ultimate Quick Detailer up till now. Paint looks really good in the shade, but some swirls and scratches are clearly visible in bright sun. As I learn more and see what can be done with the right tools and products in skilled hands, my standards have gone up and I want to take the paint on this car to the next level.
My 2 choices are to have the paint corrected by a professional or take the same money and invest in a D/A polisher and pads and do it myself.
If I decide to do it myself, I would get the G110v2 with the SoftBuff 2.0 Polishing Pads for the SwirlX and/or Ultimate Polish and Finishing Pads for the Ultimate Wax. I will probably need 7” and 4” pads to get into some of the smaller and concave curved areas. If that is not aggressive enough to get the results I want, I would try Ultimate Compound with the Polishing Pads, followed by Ultimate Polish and then Ultimate Wax.
After the paint is corrected, I would use the same basic steps as on the Lexus to maintain the Mustang, but would probably only do the clay and polish once a year since it rarely gets driven.
Does this sound like the right combination of products, equipment, and process to follow to get good results?
Do I have any combinations that would not work well together?
Any advantages or issues with doing the buffing myself versus hiring someone? I am a little concerned about my ability to handle some of the concave surfaces on the Mustang with the D/A and if I am going to have to do a lot by hand anyway, that could influence my decision on hiring someone. If someone has experience on a 67 Mustang I’d love to know just how hard it will be.
2001 Black Lexus LS430 – Daily Driver
Hood, roof, and trunk just repainted (very poorly) and the other panels are original paint.
Car is currently in a shop for major paint correction on the re-spray and overall detailing. Car should be swirl free when I get it back, but has some areas that might not be fully correctable. I can probably live with that for my daily driver, but I want it to look as good as possible. If it really starts to bother me, I will have to get the whole thing repainted, which is way more money than I want to spend.
Here is my plan for this vehicle to maintain the finish at the high level I expect it to have when I get it back from the shop.
Routine cleaning with Meguiar’s Wash and Wax or Ultima Waterless Wash, depending on how dirty and weather conditions. I have a microfiber covered sponge for the Wash and Wax (two buckets) or microfiber towels for the Waterless wash.
Monthly waxing with Ultimate Wax followed by Ultimate Quick Detailer. The heat and (prior to this year) rain in Houston seems to take away the wax pretty quickly, so I try to wax every month or 2.
Every 6 months, or as needed, clay and polish with Ultimate Polish, followed by Ultimate Wax. (Is this too often for Ultimate Polish? I tend to keep cars a long time and I can see this car getting polished with Ultimate Polish 20+ times at this rate.)
1967 Red Mustang Convertible – Garage Queen
Complete re-spray 20 years ago with single stage paint.
I have been using SwirlX, Deep Crystal Cleaner, or Ultimate Polish followed by Gold Class or NXT wax by hand, and Quick Detailer/Ultimate Quick Detailer up till now. Paint looks really good in the shade, but some swirls and scratches are clearly visible in bright sun. As I learn more and see what can be done with the right tools and products in skilled hands, my standards have gone up and I want to take the paint on this car to the next level.
My 2 choices are to have the paint corrected by a professional or take the same money and invest in a D/A polisher and pads and do it myself.
If I decide to do it myself, I would get the G110v2 with the SoftBuff 2.0 Polishing Pads for the SwirlX and/or Ultimate Polish and Finishing Pads for the Ultimate Wax. I will probably need 7” and 4” pads to get into some of the smaller and concave curved areas. If that is not aggressive enough to get the results I want, I would try Ultimate Compound with the Polishing Pads, followed by Ultimate Polish and then Ultimate Wax.
After the paint is corrected, I would use the same basic steps as on the Lexus to maintain the Mustang, but would probably only do the clay and polish once a year since it rarely gets driven.
Does this sound like the right combination of products, equipment, and process to follow to get good results?
Do I have any combinations that would not work well together?
Any advantages or issues with doing the buffing myself versus hiring someone? I am a little concerned about my ability to handle some of the concave surfaces on the Mustang with the D/A and if I am going to have to do a lot by hand anyway, that could influence my decision on hiring someone. If someone has experience on a 67 Mustang I’d love to know just how hard it will be.