IronX and claying

MoBenzOwner

MoBenzOwner

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I am aware that when using IronX and clay in tandem, the generally accepted practice is to ironx first then clay. This is to make the claying go easier as I am sure it does.
However, my logic (for what it's worth) tells me to clay first then IronX. The reason being is that claying should shear off the above surface particles, which would leave only embedded below surface particles for the Ironx to clear up. We all know that if IronX does not remove all of the particle, claying obviously will not remove the below surface portion. In short, is IronX capable of removing the larger metal particles that extend both above and below the paint surface? If the answer is no, wouldn't it make more sense to clay before IronX instead of after??
 
Iron X removes large particles.

I prefer using as little elbow grease as possilbe to get the job done quickly. Therefore I use Iron X first and Clay second.

It can be done the other way if you prefer.
 
I think on a well maintained car, claying first is very acceptable

It is what I did for winter prep since Iron X should be sprayed on a dry surface so as not to dilute the product.

After washing, I clayed using ONR lube and dried as I went along. Then I pulled the car out of the garage and sprayed the iron x. This saved me a drying step.

On a severely neglected car, I would still iron x first (if I was using it) but if the car is well maintained or has hard clear, then it's a judgement call.
 
Claying first seems to make the most sense. The reverse seems redundant.
 
not really, as iron x won't remove organic contaminants, just iron
 
Depends on how much time you have and what you are trying to achieve. If the vehicle was trashed and you were being paid the right money the best bet to save time and get OCD as well would be ironx , clay, ironx.

Ive got another option with IronX as well but I have to test it before I open my mouth. I'm pretty sure it will be the answer to really bad iron situations...
 
CEE DOG said:
Depends on how much time you have and what you are trying to achieve. If the vehicle was trashed and you were being paid the right money the best bet to save time and get OCD as well would be ironx , clay, ironx.
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I have to agree with Corey 100%. I think this would be the ideal situation and produce the best results. That said, I just received my first bottles of ironx.

If you don't do as Corey suggested then my thoughts are as follows. Do ironx first, then clay. Here are my thoughts, which doesn't make them right.

If you clay the paint first, it obviously gets more smooth, or slicker, which is what we want. However, I'm not convinced we want smooth just yet. My reason is, that those particles will keep ironx on the paint longer, therefore allowing it more time to work below the surface. Sure, some of the ironx may be waisted by trying to eat away at above surface contaminants and if that is the case then that would certainly validate Corey's suggestions.
 
Just to share my experience I had with a detail I had on a black mercedes a friend of mine bought at an auction for his kid. When he brought it over to me I wanted to do a test spot on it to see what it was going to take to correct it, since it was a swirled up mess. I clayed 1/3 of the hood and it nuked my clay bar! It was totally brown on that side and was really dragging picking contamination up from the paint. A couple of weeks later when I was able to detail the car, I sprayed it down with IronX. Since the car was black, I couldnt' see how it was reacting but the driveway was purple next to the car and boy did it stink! After giving the car a good rinse and dry, the next morning I went to start claying it and the clay bar was barely getting brown and didn't have that draggy feeling either. Paul (aka 2old2change) helped me clay the entire car and I can tell you it made a huge difference.
 
Tom Weed said:
Just to share my experience I had with a detail I had on a black mercedes a friend of mine bought at an auction for his kid. When he brought it over to me I wanted to do a test spot on it to see what it was going to take to correct it, since it was a swirled up mess. I clayed 1/3 of the hood and it nuked my clay bar! It was totally brown on that side and was really dragging picking contamination up from the paint. A couple of weeks later when I was able to detail the car, I sprayed it down with IronX. Since the car was black, I couldnt' see how it was reacting but the driveway was purple next to the car and boy did it stink! After giving the car a good rinse and dry, the next morning I went to start claying it and the clay bar was barely getting brown and didn't have that draggy feeling either. Paul (aka 2old2change) helped me clay the entire car and I can tell you it made a huge difference.
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And there you have it! Great example of using ironx first. Now, to be really particular, using ironx after the claying would probably really help the paint, and help the lsp as a result. It's not a must, rather, a choice. I just happen to think Corey's suggestion is a good one.
 
What would concern me is any larger particles going into my clay and causing any further, unecessary scratching of the surface. I'm guessing that it would be safer for Iron X first to help break down those larger particles....just my $0.02
 
one more thing to add is to make sure the car is as dry as possible before you spray it. It doesn't take much and you can spread it around with a sponge as well. I used to spray it everywhere but lately I've been spraying the middle of a panel and spreading it around with a sponge before I let it dwell.

After dwell time, I'll agitate it some more with a damp sponge (it's got a bit of detergent in it and creates some suds so I'm not worried about lubricity). You can keep doing this as long as you want as long as it doesn't dry in the sun. Helps me use less product too.
 
Johnnyboy said:
What would concern me is any larger particles going into my clay and causing any further, unecessary scratching of the surface. I'm guessing that it would be safer for Iron X first to help break down those larger particles....just my $0.02
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Exactly right! You want to remove the iron with IronX to save your clay, save time, and get less marring.

On some cars claying might not be needed. Take it on a case by case basis. After using IronX feel the paint and check to see if you need IronX. I like to use the clay briefly to check and if theres nothing move forward. If theres something then remove it.

embolism said:
one more thing to add is to make sure the car is as dry as possible before you spray it. It doesn't take much and you can spread it around with a sponge as well............ spreading it around with a sponge before I let it dwell.

After dwell time, I'll agitate it some more with a damp sponge (it's got a bit of detergent in it and creates some suds so I'm not worried about lubricity). You can keep doing this as long as you want as long as it doesn't dry in the sun. Helps me use less product too.
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Exactly right Tim, as you know I use the same method.
 
I have never used iron-x before but I was wondering if the iron-x could work as the clay lubricant? Just a thought I had when reading this thread.
 
bradley said:
I have never used iron-x before but I was wondering if the iron-x could work as the clay lubricant? Just a thought I had when reading this thread.
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I would think not since your not supposed to let it dry out?
 
too stinky not to mention expensive to use as a clay lube
 
Lot's of good responses here guys! I appreciate them all.
Kevin
 
Just to chime in...

The benefit to using Iron-X first is to chemically remove/dissolve any iron particles before you clay.

By removing the iron particles embedded on and in the paint you remove the potential to trap them onto your clay patty and thus prevent having them rubbed over the paint where they could instill scratches that you would then have to remove.

It's a product to solve a potential scratching from claying issue...

At the upcoming Detailing Classes in January I'm going to show in this order,

  1. Washing car exterior - removing loose dirt - make it easier for Iron-X to do it's job more effectively
  2. Cleaning car exterior with Iron-X - Removing embedded iron particles
  3. Claying car exterior - removing any remaining above surface bonded contaminants
The car I have picked out for this is a white Bonneville which is a daily driver and has been parked outside since it was purchased new. I don't think it's been waxed in years and only washed occasionally and probably at a local car wash.

Also, I've clayed a car with iron particles and the results were scratches in the paint. This was 4-5 years ago at a TNOG at Meguiar's in Irvine, California. Long before Iron-X was introduced and about the only practical option was to use detailing clay for this type of problem.

Afterwards we used a rotary buffer to remove the iron particle induced scratches.



:)
 
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