Megs M105 hard to remove?

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NFA

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Any secrets to removing M105? Tried a test spot on my car the other day and it was pretty hard to remove. Not sure if I didn't work it long enough for it to completely flash or it was too cool (45-50degrees) to work with. I did see it dusting up a little. Does anyone have any tips on how to make removal easier? I am applying it with a PC 7424XP on a orange LC pad.
 
I have hear baby oil helps lubricate and increases working time, plus decreases dusting. You don't want to work it till it's dry, it will be like cement. But using a quick detailer can usually help.
 
NFA said:
Any secrets to removing M105? Tried a test spot on my car the other day and it was pretty hard to remove. Not sure if I didn't work it long enough for it to completely flash or it was too cool (45-50degrees) to work with. I did see it dusting up a little. Does anyone have any tips on how to make removal easier? I am applying it with a PC 7424XP on a orange LC pad.
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:idea: If there was product left to remove then you didn't work it long enough
 
I recently did the hood of my 350Z and I had no issues. I worked it doing about 6 section passes like I have worked with other compounds and I had no issues with extreme dusting or difficult removal. It takes a little elbow grease, but not excessively. M205 wiped right off. I did use XMT pad conditioner prior to starting with the 105, so maybe that helped with work time and ease of use.
 
As weird as this sounds, M105 is easier for me to remove when it has dried. Usually flashes over right after I pass over it.

Just like removing a coat of wax. M205 and D300 on the other hand, those oils were hard to completely remove.
 
when i first used m105 it dried like cement, that is before i learned to prime pad then use very little polish and keep pad clean. google the kevin brown method, or search here for it and it will help alot. spot is hard to remove i use ONR or dp rinseless wash diluted to clay lube strength and spray it and it melts right off. or you can just go over the spot with fresh polish and it comes right off then also. takes some time and you will get the hang of it.
 
I used m105 for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I know that at first i used too much product, and it was hard to wipe off. i am not an expert by know means, but i think the trick is not to use to much. At least it did for me!:buffing:
 
Even when sufficient product was used, M105 can be a "little" more difficult to use. You can use the spritzing method as mentioned above... OR like me, just switch to Megs Power Finish...love that stuff.
 
:iagree:100% watched richy's video before i first got m105 and helped heaps watched it again after i tested out m105 and helped even more now i have the hang of it and reach for it the most, ran through the 8oz bottle i had now am onto a 32oz lol
 
sportscarhiatus said:
Even when sufficient product was used, M105 can be a "little" more difficult to use. You can use the spritzing method as mentioned above... OR like me, just switch to Menzerna Power Finish...love that stuff.
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Fixed that ^

PF doesn't have near the cut 105 has IMO
 
Wipe it off as soon as you finish a section.

If it's drying up sooner than you want it to or you want more working time or cut you simply spray it once with a spritz of straight distilled water from a spray bottle.

A couple other tips:

Prime the pad: that means apply a thin even coating of 105 across a new pad before you get started.

After every section you want to clean your pad. Try using compressed air, a brush, or a towel to clean the pad before adding more polish. Find what works for you.

Not as much compound is needed now that your pad is primed.

Change your pad when you begin to see a reduction in performance or before that. After every couple panels I like to change mine. But this all depends on a variety of things including how much paint you had to remove, how nastified the paint was, what type of pad your using, the size of the panels, etc.

When you change your pad prime it like you did the first time and then go back to a few drops per section.
 
Flash Gordon said:
Fixed that ^

PF doesn't have near the cut 105 has IMO
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Yeah, why in the world did I say Megs?? I meant Menz!!! LOL... sorry, thanks for fixing that.

Yes, I agree that PF doesn't have enough cut as 105. For those tougher jobs, I use Power Gloss and a surbuf pad.
 
aerogt01 said:
As weird as this sounds, M105 is easier for me to remove when it has dried. Usually flashes over right after I pass over it.

Just like removing a coat of wax. M205 and D300 on the other hand, those oils were hard to completely remove.
Click to expand...

What does it mean to "flash over"?
 
marsomthing said:
What does it mean to "flash over"?
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M105 can dry out quickly depending on amount of polish and pad size so the residue can resemble like dried wax to some extent if there is a lot of polish on the pad.
 
Flash Gordon said:
Blasphemy!!!! ^

OP, try spritzing the area with water, then going at it again :buffing: apply firm pressure, work in a tight area, and ignore the dust ;)
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I was thinking when I saw the title of the thread. :iagree:
 
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