Is "detailing" my daily driver Tahoe just too much for me

SeaNile

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Newbie here and first want to say this is an awesome site with fantastic info. I checked out several videos, product reviews, searched the various threads and have learned a lot.

Before really looking into this site and learning about details cars I used to think I was good at keeping my car looking good. Really, I just wash it regularly, clean out the door jambs, towel dry and do a quick once over with FK425. Now my wife's Tahoe needs to be waxed and as much as I want to do it myself, seeing these videos with 13 steps is making me question if I should do this or just send it to a pro shop. Obviously I know a good pro shop will make it look much better than I ever could.

So, I'm up for a good wash, dry, clay bar (would be a first for me) and maybe a "compound" then wax but that's about it. If I really need to do 5-6-7 steps it'll never get done. Not enough time between work, wife and kids.

Any advice for a newbie? I'm OK with buying a decent DA and a few supplies but do not want to go crazy with this....

Thanks!!
 
How about a claying followed by a aio? Welcome to the forum. Happy trails...
 
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How about a claying followed by a aio? Welcome to the forum. Happy trails...

This, an aio product would make it pretty easy. Maybe a cleaner-wax of some kind. I definitely feel your pain on the large vehicle. I did my parent's 04 F150 last year for them. It's the full 4 door cab, full size bed, with painted hard cover over the bed. That was a 12 hour job rushing it with just wash, clay, polish, seal. Of course, it was also in really bad shape which didn't help.
 
You could try what I do - dont try to 100% correct the whole car every time you detail, just work on a panel or two, try to get them looking better, view it as an experiment. Pretty soon the whole car is looking pretty darn good and you can go back a second time and try to get an even more perfect finish. If you dont have time for a correction, just slap another coat of wax on it and know its well protected for the next time.
 
Newbie here and first want to say this is an awesome site with fantastic info. I checked out several videos, product reviews, searched the various threads and have learned a lot.

Before really looking into this site and learning about details cars I used to think I was good at keeping my car looking good. Really, I just wash it regularly, clean out the door jambs, towel dry and do a quick once over with FK425. Now my wife's Tahoe needs to be waxed and as much as I want to do it myself, seeing these videos with 13 steps is making me question if I should do this or just send it to a pro shop. Obviously I know a good pro shop will make it look much better than I ever could.

So, I'm up for a good wash, dry, clay bar (would be a first for me) and maybe a "compound" then wax but that's about it. If I really need to do 5-6-7 steps it'll never get done. Not enough time between work, wife and kids.

Any advice for a newbie? I'm OK with buying a decent DA and a few supplies but do not want to go crazy with this....

Thanks!!

Thats debatable. Find a detailer who is a member of autogeek. They will do a fantastic job. Go to a place that says they will buff your car for cheap, you will probably wish you did it yourself as you will have to fix their mistakes.
 
Ah, claying followed by an aio sounds like a reasonable plan. Just need to find the appropriate products and a good DA.

Thanks!
 
Ah, claying followed by an aio sounds like a reasonable plan. Just need to find the appropriate products and a good DA.

Thanks!

My recommendations for a good AIO with allot of cut would be Megs D151 for a good AIO paint cleaner with great protection I would go with DG 501.
 
I'm in agreement with everyone else. If you get a DA and an All-in-one would greatly reduce your time.

Letting us know your location will help you find a fellow Autogeek member who might be able to help you in the process or find the pro to detail it for you.
 
:welcome: to AG SeaNile.

I would definitely clay the car like everyone else suggested. You will leave the paint smooth like glass.

Make sure when you purchase clay get the same brand clay lubricant for it because some lubricants don't lubricate the paint enough for all clay bars. I learned this the hard way lol.

I used Wolfgang clay bar with Zymol Lube and it left minor scratches in a small area. I then tried a different solution and it still left minor scratches. I then bought the Wolfgang Lubricant and boom works perfectly.

DA Polisher - Porter Cable. 100% because your not a professional detailer nor do you do this for a living so starting out with a Porter Cable, I feel is the best bang for your buck.

Your going to follow the clay bar method with an AIO then Pinnacle XMT 360 would be your best bet!
XMT 360 corrects, cleans, and seals auto paint! XMT 360 is more than a cleaner wax, its a swirl remover, polish, and paint sealant in one.

Hope this helps.
 
Im sure your up for it but, if time is not on your side with all your other activities..maybe there is a fellow AG'er near you that could do it or help u out. Where are u located?
 
I agree that your best bet is wash, clay, then an AIO (using a DA). In way simplified terms, you can think of an AIO as a liquid compound and a liquid sealant mixed together and bottled up. I'm sure the manufacturers put a lot of work into mixing just the right chemicals together, so don't think you can just mix 2 products together yourself and make your own AIO, that's just a basic explanation of what an AIO is (to my understanding).

If you do decide to use an AIO, you will need a DA, because the abrasive agents only work if they're rubbed against the paint. A DA will give you something like 400rpm (plus a few thousand oscillations per min). Working by hand, you just won't realistically be able to rub the AIO that much.

You can get a DA, a six pack of pads, clay, and an AIO for right at $200. Get the six pack of pads. It'll take several pads to do a vehicle, and if you're like me, you'll tear up the first few pads trying to learn how to use them. I don't know about other DA's, but my GG came with a 5 1/2" backing plate. I'm a newbie myself, and I've found that working with smaller pads is easier for me than larger pads. I would suggest that when you place your order, you also buy the Lake Country flexible 5" backing plate (it'll cost $10-$15). That way, you can use the pads that are 5 1/2" diameter and 7/8" thick. The only other thing you might consider buying is some good microfiber towels and a good wash mitt. Nothing sucks more than putting in all the work then swirling it up as soon as you run a towel or wash mitt across it. Don't buy cheap microfibers from Autozone or Home Depot or any place like that. They're junk and will mar the paint BAD and I'd rather use a cotton bath towel than those (I learned that the hard way). I always look for a cheaper solution, and I'm not one that thinks name brand is automatically better. I know there are pro detailers on this forum who can run circles around me, and a few of them use cheap microfibers or cotton bath towels. Maybe when I'm more skilled I'll be able to get away with using cheap towels safely, but being a newbie, I've found that if I use a cheap towel, I swirl the paint.

Also, for your clay lube, use ONR or the rinseless wash concentrate that DP makes (whichever is cheaper). That way, you can use it as a clay lube, rinseless wash, or a waterless wash. After trying out ONR, I'll never use a regular wash again (unless the car is super dirty). One thing I don't like about ONR is using it as a QD. It just doesn't feel slick to me, and I'm in love with Meg's QD. Haven't tried Meg's newest QD, but their old QD that had been around forever (in the maroon bottle) is amazing. Personal preference, vets don't bash me.

Alright, now that we added in a backing plate, towels, wash mitt, and a bottle of ONR, I'm thinking your probably looking at around $250, but you will definitely be well under $300, and once you make the investment, you're set for years (since you're only doing your personal vehicles).

This is a lot of info, and it may sound overwhelming, but it's not. Don't let it scare you. The first time or 2 you do your personal vehicle will take up a lot of time (if you're anything like me, but I'm a perfectionist. Plus, I'm not good with my hands. When it comes to book smarts, I'm a genius, but common sense working with my hands kind of things don't come easily to me). Once you've done it a couple of times and get the hang of it, the time required will go down DRASTICALLY. Don't let all this info overwhelm you. Wash, clay, dry, AIO with a DA, you're done. It really is that simple.

A couple of last thoughts. Don't get one of those wax spreaders from Autozone for $30 or $40. I think they may say DA on the box, but they don't work for ANY kind of correction work, so using them with an AIO is pointless. They are great for applying a traditional, non abrasive wax with no correction properties, but that's it. For more info on this, do a search for wax spreader.

IF this is more than you are wanting to do, you could always wash, clay then use a traditional wax by hand, but the swirls are still gonna be there. I really think that if you go with a DA and and AIO, you will be MUCH happier with the results, and I bet your vehicle will look better than any brand new car sitting outside on a new car dealer's lot.
 
Simple answer to the OP is that you don't have to do the whole vehicle in one day. Break it down into 2 or 3 days and work at a comfortable pace. You will also be suprised if you take your time and do a lil research how well you can make your own vehicle look.
 
Simple answer to the OP is that you don't have to do the whole vehicle in one day. Break it down into 2 or 3 days and work at a comfortable pace. You will also be suprised if you take your time and do a lil research how well you can make your own vehicle look.

^^^^^Great advice^^^^^:props:

In fact I'd start with the roof panel(s) first...The rest of it, then, would be all downhill.

BTW, OP....:welcome:...to Ago!!!

:)

Bob
 
Im sure your up for it but, if time is not on your side with all your other activities..maybe there is a fellow AG'er near you that could do it or help u out. Where are u located?

There you go, this sounds like a perfect job for a group effort!
 
Thanks again for all the advice. I have the buckets, mitts, grit guards and even some brand new ONR waterless car wash stuff and plenty of microfiber towels.

Need to decide on the DA (and backing plate), pads and the aio products.
 
I like what everybody has said about not doing the car all in 1 day. Great idea.

As far as which AIO, from what I've read here, there are 2 that seem to be really popular. Meg's D151 is one of them, but I can't remember what the other 1 is.

As far as which DA to go with, it seems like the most popular options are the Porter Cable (PC) and the Griot's Garage (GG). I went with the GG because it's got a more powerful motor. You don't have to use the machine at maximum output, but I like knowing that I've got it if I need it. Both machines have been used on thousands and thousands of cars with great results.
 
Everyone has given really good advise. I won't add anything new, just confirm the suggestions already provided. I too have a Tahoe as a daily driver, and there is a lot of real estate to cover. So unless you want your wife to think you're crazy for spending 12 hours of you Saturday in the garage, break up the task into small chunks.

You're already set with the ONR, so it's easy to wash the car on a Saturday, tackle what you can, then return Sunday and clean off with ONR whatever new section your going to do. Breaking it into smaller efforts will keep you fresh, and keep it fun, which is why we this right?

You'll first want to clay, as mentioned by the others ,but only clay the sections you plan on finishing that day. As the others suggested a One-step product is going to be your best bet from a cost($ and time)/benefit stand point. You can clean/polish your paint, and protect it all once. And when you're dealing a daily driver SUV, anytime you can combine steps, go for it. I use Optimum Poli-Seal. It corrects most of the swirls, plus is very easy to use. I find that liquid works itself away during polishing, which makes the wipe down very easy and quick (a huge plus).

Lastly, about that roof (if you have a 2007 or newer) with those sweet ridges. If you want to polish those by machine, you'll need some smaller pads, 4.5 in. However, being that I'm an Economist by training, I look at everything from a Marginal Cost, Marginal Benefit stand point. The cost of polishing the roof is a lot of time, and, either taping off those ridges to make sure I don't gouge them, or going extra slow, but not a whole lot of benefit since I never see it anyways. So I just stick to claying the roof, and cleaning it with something like Iron X and a paint cleaner by hand and applying an easy sealant like Optimum Opti-Seal (you could also use an AIO previously mentioned in early posts). I'm more concerned with keeping the paint clean from contamination and protected against future contamination than getting rid of swirls that I cannot see. This is just my stand point for my daily driver, given my time requirements elsewhere, so take it for what it's worth.

Good luck. There's nothing more satisfying than finishing up on a nice clean Tahoe and realizing you just detailed that whole thing, and it looks great.
 
I might be repeating what some other members mentioned above, but an All In One product sounds like a good product for what you are looking to achieve. They will clean, correct, and seal the paint all in one step. I would highly recommend you invest in getting a Dual Action polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424 XP, Griot's Garage 6 inch, or Meguiar's G110v2. They are all very reasonably priced and are easy to learn on for a first time user and are safe. Using a Dual Action Polisher will cut down on work time versus working by hand.

Here are some AIO products that AutoGeek caries

-Duragloss Marine RV Polish #501 cleans, polishes, and shines gelcoat fiberglass boat and RV finishes. Duragloss durable boat and RV polishes.
-Poorboys World Polish with Sealant, Poorboys PWS, paint sealant
-Griot's Garage One-Step Sealant, One Step Paint Sealant, liquid car wax sealant
-XMT 360 corrects, cleans, and seals auto paint! XMT 360 is more than a cleaner wax, its a swirl remover, polish, and paint sealant in one.
-Meguiars DA Microfiber Finishing Wax, final wax, car wax, cleaning wax
-Optimum GPS Glaze Polish Sealant

Can't go wrong with any of these.

Now for pad selection, I would suggest Lake Country Hydro-Tech Pads. This line is very simple, only 3 pads. Cyan cutting pad, Tangerine polishing pad, and Crimson finishing pad. I would recommend picking up three 5.5 inch Tangerine pads and three 5.5 inch Crimson pads. The Tangerine pads can be used for when the paint needs lots of cleaning and even some correction and the Crimson pads can be used when you need very light cleaning of the paint and just to lay down some protection.

Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads , hydrotech foam pads for water-based polishes, lake country foam pads, buffing pads

Hope I didn't throw too much at ya.
 
Love the advice so far. One last thing and I am set to order. Do I need a backing pad for the DA I purchase?
 
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