How to Make 303 with Perl??

Josh@BR

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I heard that Perl is nearly identical to 303 based off the main "ingredient" that they both use but Perl is just more concentrated. My question is if anyone has found a good dilution of Perl that makes it nearly identical to the look of 303 or is this impossible? Currently 303 is my go to protectant but if it makes sense to buy Perl and just dilute it then I would just start to do that. Thanks for any help!
 
I heard that Perl is nearly identical to 303 based off the main "ingredient" that they both use but Perl is just more concentrated. My question is if anyone has found a good dilution of Perl that makes it nearly identical to the look of 303 or is this impossible? Currently 303 is my go to protectant but if it makes sense to buy Perl and just dilute it then I would just start to do that. Thanks for any help!

Perl recommended dilution ratios per:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/35482-perl-r-stands-rubber-tires.html

{Thanks Nick}

External plastics - 1: 3 (1 quantity PERL : 3 quantity water).
Engine – 1:1~3
Tires - undiluted ~ 1:1
Interior rubber / dashboard / leather / vinyl – 1:5


As is the norm:
Folks will stray from the above recommendations to suit their own taste...
Your visual, at what dilution ratio, if any, it may take to have Perl 'look' exactly like 303 will surely differ from mine, and perhaps others as well. I'm sure if you experiment enough, you may find that magic potion.

I'm more interested in the fact you found out the information about Perl's and 303's main "ingredient"...If, in fact, you're referencing an ingredient other than water, that is.
Pray tell...Please Share! Thanks.

:)

Bob
 
In one of Avi's posts I believe he said the main ingredient is the same. He did not say what the ingredient was though.
 
Hmmmm, I don't think it's the same. Ive never seen 303 look as black as PERL. In any case perl is better and cheaper after diluting so why not get it. If I wasn't so busy I'd do a 50/50 perl 303 test.

I'd be interested in seeing that quote. Then again milk and cranberry juice have the same main ingredient but other little things make a difference

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/40314-review-carpro-perl.html
 
Perl recommended dilution ratios per:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/35482-perl-r-stands-rubber-tires.html

{Thanks Nick}

External plastics - 1: 3 (1 quantity PERL : 3 quantity water).
Engine – 1:1~3
Tires - undiluted ~ 1:1
Interior rubber / dashboard / leather / vinyl – 1:5


As is the norm:
Folks will stray from the above recommendations to suit their own taste...
Your visual, at what dilution ratio, if any, it may take to have Perl 'look' exactly like 303 will surely differ from mine, and perhaps others as well. I'm sure if you experiment enough, you may find that magic potion.

I'm more interested in the fact you found out the information about Perl's and 303's main "ingredient"...If, in fact, you're referencing an ingredient other than water, that is.
Pray tell...Please Share! Thanks.

:)

Bob

Yeah I heard about the main ingredient being the same from Avi@CarPro like WRXINXS said. I found it out here.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/35151-trouble-using-perl-2.html
 
Thanks for the link Josh! I remember reading that now. I still think they are different and have other ingredients. But what do I know.
 
In order for me to not have to postulate...

So, then, are you saying the main "ingredient" is water?

Thanks.

Bob

I don't think that is what he meant. The exact words that Avi used in this post were: "i can give you small hint that we use same ingredients like 303 just twice concentrated." I think it is this sentence that the OP is making reference to. Since "twice concentrated water" doesn't really make any sense, he is guessing that Avi isn't really talking about water.
 
I don't think that is what he meant. The exact words that Avi used in this post were: "i can give you small hint that we use same ingredients like 303 just twice concentrated." I think it is this sentence that the OP is making reference to. Since "twice concentrated water" doesn't really make any sense, he is guessing that Avi isn't really talking about water.

+1
 
About how long does PERL last on exterior trim/interior trim/seats/engine/tires? Can someone break it down for each? thanx
 
About how long does PERL last on exterior trim/interior trim/seats/engine/tires? Can someone break it down for each? thanx

Not long enough. A couple weeks tops. (Depending on conditions) There are better exterior trim products, like ETS. PERL looks great on tires, wheel wells, on the engine plastic/rubber, and interiors, but I wouldn't recommend it for exterior trim.
 
I don't think that is what he meant. The exact words that Avi used in this post were: "i can give you small hint that we use same ingredients like 303 just twice concentrated." I think it is this sentence that the OP is making reference to. Since "twice concentrated water" doesn't really make any sense, he is guessing that Avi isn't really talking about water.





Heavy water
[Deuterium (D2O)] is one form of "concentrated water", that does make sense...Especially for use in nuclear reactors, and for producing weapons-grade plutonium.
And since...The manufacturing/distribution of heavy water is closely monitored and controlled, obtaining any outside of these realms is nearly impossible. It's very also expensive to manufacture (A few years ago it was around $500 a quart).

So...I'll agree, on the above premise, then, that Avi@CarPro more than likely doesn't have access to "concentrated water"; and, that Perl, therefore, probably doesn't have "twice concentrated water"!!


"i can give you small hint that we use same ingredients like 303 just twice concentrated."

These same ingredients might be "just twice concentrated" the proprietary ingredients of 303...
And 303 ingredients, (except for their proprietary UV ingredients, perhaps), just might be "twice concentrated", (or less), proprietary ingredients of the industry leader: Armorall!

We'll probably never know until these products' MSDS's require that all ingredients, proprietary or not, are made public.

Besides all of the above gobbledygook...

I hope you, OP, will be able to find the happy medium in your quest for the: Perl-being-like-303 dilution ratio you are seeking. When you do accomplish this mission, and even though your "new, reformulated Perl" has your proprietary ingredients, do please share. Thanks.


:)

Bob
 
Not long enough. A couple weeks tops. (Depending on conditions) There are better exterior trim products, like ETS. PERL looks great on tires, wheel wells, on the engine plastic/rubber, and interiors, but I wouldn't recommend it for exterior trim.

What is ETS? and how long does PERL last on the interior/leather?
 
What is ETS? and how long does PERL last on the interior/leather?

ETS is Wolfgang's exterior trim sealant. It lasts months, not weeks. An alternative to UTTG.

With PERL, I've gotten at least a month or two on interiors (I strip the old every time I detail for that fresh look!). I have not tried it on leather. I will only use dedicated leather products on leather. (OCD a bit...)

I've gotten a few good months on the engine (if you are wondering).:props:
 
Hmmmm, I don't think it's the same. Ive never seen 303 look as black as PERL

I applied 303 to one section of my linex spray in liner and used a scrub brush to work it in, then I used Perl on another section with out scrubbing. Used a terry cloth to wipe down afterwards and I agree the Perl used 1:1 looked better than the 303. I used Perl on all four tires of the daughters car 2 weeks ago and they still look as good as the day I applied it. Now diluting it at 1:1 I do not think it will be cheaper than 303 at 57.00 per gallon. I have gone about a month on the daughters car with the 303 so I guess I will know in about 2 weeks what the Perl looks like.

Dave
 
You know most of the white water-based dressings are PDMS-based. For that matter, most detailing products are silicone-based. But as noted above, just because milk and cranberry juice are both water-based, that doesn't mean they are the same, or for that matter, that any two cranberry juices are the same. It has to do with the proportion and the quality of the ingredients.

Before you guys start jumping down my throat about how your favorite product doesn't have any silicones in it, try looking at the MSDS's at the Premium Finish Care or Duragloss website and see how many of the products have siloxanes in them...those are silicones. However, there are many different types of siloxanes, which can be combined in various ways and proportions to create the many different detailing products we use.
 
You know most of the white water-based dressings are PDMS-based. For that matter, most detailing products are silicone-based. But as noted above, just because milk and cranberry juice are both water-based, that doesn't mean they are the same, or for that matter, that any two cranberry juices are the same. It has to do with the proportion and the quality of the ingredients.

Before you guys start jumping down my throat about how your favorite product doesn't have any silicones in it, try looking at the MSDS's at the Premium Finish Care or Duragloss website and see how many of the products have siloxanes in them...those are silicones. However, there are many different types of siloxanes, which can be combined in various ways and proportions to create the many different detailing products we use.

^^^^^^^So true, so true!^^^^^^^

And to think...

And...IMO...Most of this type of "chemical-name confusion" can be blamed on those in the scientific community that first discovered (what was to be derived from the elements silicon and hydrogen) one of the most humblest, and simplest, silicon-hydrogen compound.

From that point onward...Chemical blenders/marketers just seemed to have gone nuts in their derivations/variations of SiH4; and, in turn, the marketing of them...
This, in turn, no doubt, has driven this silicone/no-silicone, PDS/PDMS issues into such a nutty state-of-affairs.

Makes it difficult to select the "correct" products. Shouldn't be this way, though.

Quick question for the OP:
-Are you still "blending" Perl?

Bob
 
I applied 303 to one section of my linex spray in liner and used a scrub brush to work it in, then I used Perl on another section with out scrubbing. Used a terry cloth to wipe down afterwards and I agree the Perl used 1:1 looked better than the 303. I used Perl on all four tires of the daughters car 2 weeks ago and they still look as good as the day I applied it. Now diluting it at 1:1 I do not think it will be cheaper than 303 at 57.00 per gallon. I have gone about a month on the daughters car with the 303 so I guess I will know in about 2 weeks what the Perl looks like.

Dave

Very cool! Thanks for the feedback Dave! :buffing:

You know most of the white water-based dressings are PDMS-based. For that matter, most detailing products are silicone-based. But as noted above, just because milk and cranberry juice are both water-based, that doesn't mean they are the same, or for that matter, that any two cranberry juices are the same. It has to do with the proportion and the quality of the ingredients.

Before you guys start jumping down my throat about how your favorite product doesn't have any silicones in it, try looking at the MSDS's at the Premium Finish Care or Duragloss website and see how many of the products have siloxanes in them...those are silicones. However, there are many different types of siloxanes, which can be combined in various ways and proportions to create the many different detailing products we use.

Very well said and exactly right
 
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