Megs 105/205 vs Menz SIP/SF

Newdetailer1

Newdetailer1

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I've never used megs before and still have a good bit of menzerna left, but are this combos so close to the same that it might not be worth the change?? I'm not saying I'm not happy with what I'm working with, but if I did want to try something different it sounds llike this is very close to what I use now. I've been using LC ccs pads. Typically I would use SIP with an orange followed with SF on a white pad. How much of a difference would I see with the megs combo using the same pads?
 
Honestly, I've been having issues learning how to properly apply M105. It is a great product and has proven cutting ability, I just think the key to utilizing it to the fullest is having experience with it. It's been drying up on me and has a very short working time. It also dusts considerably more than the Menzerna polishes you mentioned (so I'm told). I'd suggest learning how to properly apply the Menzerna twins before taking on M105/M205.

The Menzerna twins are known to dust less and have longer working times than the Megs twins.
 
I'd change out the pads to flats for use with your Menz polishes. CCS dimples don't allow the abrasives to fracture fully at the same time.
 
TimmyG said:
Honestly, I've been having issues learning how to properly apply M105. It is a great product and has proven cutting ability, I just think the key to utilizing it to the fullest is having experience with it. It's been drying up on me and has a very short working time. It also dusts considerably more than the Menzerna polishes you mentioned (so I'm told). I'd suggest learning how to properly apply the Menzerna twins before taking on M105/M205.

The Menzerna twins are known to dust less and have longer working times than the Megs twins.
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I'm confortable with the mez combo. I'm starting to think the 105 is more like the menz power gloss?? What you describe happens to me with the PG. PG is pretty aggressive stuff... I've had it dry up on me rather quickly also and I've even sprayed some mist on the pad to try to help, but no dice.
 
I personally run the LC 5.5" flat pads, which are fantastic. Are you using the Kevin Brown pad priming method? That helped me alot. Also, i've literally spent hours working proper technique on the hood of my daily driver.
 
TimmyG said:
I personally run the LC 5.5" flat pads, which are fantastic. Are you using the Kevin Brown pad priming method? That helped me alot. Also, i've literally spent hours working proper technique on the hood of my daily driver.
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Which machine are you using? I started with the PC and quickly went to the flex 3401 which really changed how the maching works on the paint. I really should give the flats a try. I have a ton of the CCS pads so maybe I'll just get a set of 6 and see how it goes. How differently will the flats work the compound/polish vs the ccs?
 
M105 is a true compound. SIP is not... it's more of a medium cut polish. If you want a Menzerna compound, you need Power Gloss.
 
Newdetailer1 said:
Which machine are you using? I started with the PC and quickly went to the flex 3401 which really changed how the maching works on the paint. I really should give the flats a try. I have a ton of the CCS pads so maybe I'll just get a set of 6 and see how it goes. How differently will the flats work the compound/polish vs the ccs?
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I'm using the PC 7424XP. I'm a beginner so I'm still learning proper technique and application. I will say, M105 isn't the friendliest beginner cut compound. However, I have nothing to really compare it to so that might not be a fair assessment. I've learned with a properly primed pad, proper technique, and the correct amount of compound, you can achieve solid results.
 
TimmyG said:
I'm using the PC 7424XP. I'm a beginner so I'm still learning proper technique and application. I will say, M105 isn't the friendliest beginner cut compound. However, I have nothing to really compare it to so that might not be a fair assessment. I've learned with a properly primed pad, proper technique, and the correct amount of compound, you can achieve solid results.
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Indeed you can, but you might be starting out too aggressive? If the 105 is anything like menz PG then you might be removing more clear coat then you need to? One thing I was always told was to start out as least aggressive as possible.
 
Newdetailer1 said:
Indeed you can, but you might be starting out too aggressive? If the 105 is anything like menz PG then you might be removing more clear coat then you need to? One thing I was always told was to start out as least aggressive as possible.
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Agreed. I started my detail with a flat LC 5.5" pad and M205 to see if it would remove the defects. It did not. I then moved my way up the the LC flat 5.5" orange pad with M105 and was getting solid correction with that combo. My only real gripe with the combo was how quickly the M105 was drying up and dusting on me. I was working it too long aparently. I've since started spraing distilled water on the worked product to work it a little longer and have since achieved even better correction. :buffing:
 
TimmyG said:
Agreed. I started my detail with a flat LC 5.5" pad and M205 to see if it would remove the defects. It did not. I then moved my way up the the LC flat 5.5" orange pad with M105 and was getting solid correction with that combo. My only real gripe with the combo was how quickly the M105 was drying up and dusting on me. I was working it too long aparently. I've since started spraing distilled water on the worked product to work it a little longer and have since achieved even better correction. :buffing:
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Check out my video to help you with 105. B & S pads work the best for me I have found:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-richy-s-m105-video-no-dusting-technique.html
 
One of the best methods I've found is to use a compound like M105 or PG on a polishing pad (my go to is an uber green or a B&S green) at a low speed on a rotary (at about 1200)... it finishes down beautifully and removes the swirls and RIDS very effectively. You can finish with a black pad with either 106FA or Final Finish. I think using an orange pad or anything more aggressive with a compound is complete overkill on most clears because you are pairing an aggressive pad with aggressive polish and removing too much clear.
 
Kaban said:
One of the best methods I've found is to use a compound like M105 or PG on a polishing pad (my go to is an uber green or a B&S green) at a low speed on a rotary (at about 1200)... it finishes down beautifully and removes the swirls and RIDS very effectively. You can finish with a black pad with either 106FA or Final Finish. I think using an orange pad or anything more aggressive with a compound is complete overkill on most clears because you are pairing an aggressive pad with aggressive polish and removing too much clear.
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I will try that, but I think us DA guys might need the more agressive pad for lack of rotary??
 
Every car is going to be a little different so it would help to have a little arsenal of compounds, polishes and pads to work with. My go to combination right now is M105 for the initial cut and finish it with SF4500 (PO85RD). I have yet to find anything that will finish down better then SF4500.
 
NFA said:
Every car is going to be a little different so it would help to have a little arsenal of compounds, polishes and pads to work with. My go to combination right now is M105 for the initial cut and finish it with SF4500 (PO85RD). I have yet to find anything that will finish down better then SF4500.
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yeah for some reason I thought you were using a rotary. But, I can tell you that on a Flex XC3401, I need to use a LC orange pad to get the same amount of correction with alot more pressure applied and sometimes more passes.
 
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