Polish/Pad combo to remove Opti-coat 2.0 and othe nano coatings.

Kaban

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Just wondering what kind of pad and polish combo is needed to fully remove these coatings?

Are we talking about using a very fine polish like 85rd/106fa/M205 with a finishing pad?

Or is a stronger polish and pad combo needed like 203s Power Finish or SIP on a white or orange pad?

Also, should you be using a good amount of pressure and slow arm speed like when doing correction or lighter pressure and faster arm speed like finishing work?

I don't think I have seen a single thread that addressed these questions yet, so it would be good to hear some answers.
 
Why would you fully remove a coating? It is not necessary for repairs, reapplication, or resprays. There's no way to tell when you are thru the coating and into the paint so it'd be just cutting thru clear for the hell of it.
 
That's what worries me... so you're saying once it's applied that's it? What if down the road I want to try Swissvax or some other wax or sealant? You need a clean surface for those to bond well.

If you look around, alot of people are going around the forums and saying "oh well you can just polish it off"... but I doubt these individuals know what they are talking about. That's why I wanted to ask someone with first hand experience.
 
That's what worries me... so you're saying once it's applied that's it? What if down the road I want to try Swissvax or some other wax or sealant? You need a clean surface for those to bond well.

If you look around, alot of people are going around the forums and saying "oh well you can just polish it off"... but I doubt these individuals know what they are talking about. That's why I wanted to ask someone with first hand experience.

Opti Coat is not a nano sealant, so it will actually form a permanent bond and become the topcoat, just like if you had another layer of clear sprayed...you would not be able to clearly define where the new layer ends and the old begins other than checking for beading and I think this would be a counterproductive and unnecessarily remove thickness. You can still try any products you like to see the look/feel but, they will not likely last more than 30 days...which is not really a problem as OC will still be there for protection.

You also mention "other nano coatings." Unlike OC a nano coating, or as I refer to them, extended life sealants will wear away over time and you would be able to try out your new stuff then. I still would not recommend polishing unnecessarily with these either because you still have no definitive way to tell when you break thru the sealant and start removing clear. We only have a thin layer to begin with, so I'm not an advocate of constant polishing.
 
Chris I know you stated before that the only way to apply another coat would be to polish(clean up). The scuffing would make the 2nd coat bond. So, if you scuff it, will a wax or sealant bond better also? The OC will also still be intact.
 
That's what worries me... so you're saying once it's applied that's it? What if down the road I want to try Swissvax or some other wax or sealant? You need a clean surface for those to bond well.

If you look around, alot of people are going around the forums and saying "oh well you can just polish it off"... but I doubt these individuals know what they are talking about. That's why I wanted to ask someone with first hand experience.

I too have thought about this on many occasions. If you didn't want OC anymore and did want a sealant or wax to last more than a month you would have to polish and check or polish and check to avoid cutting to far int the clear beyond the OC.

I'm not saying there's a good reason or very many people that would want to remove the coating but for arguments sake...

Another thought I had is what if you sell the car and it is taken to a detailer who has no clue it's been opticoated. He polishes it and applies a product. Now say he polishes through the coating in some places and not in others. Then at some point it beads differently in some spots then others as the wax or sealant wears off faster on the opticoated areas.

It's really kind of an over analyzation but that's what we do on forums right?

I believe it to be much more likely that any full polishing cycle is going to remove the coating.
 
Chris I know you stated before that the only way to apply another coat would be to polish(clean up). The scuffing would make the 2nd coat bond. So, if you scuff it, will a wax or sealant bond better also? The OC will also still be intact.

I would say it's doubtful because the dirt shedding and bug sticking effect is still intact even after polishing. While the microscopic scuffs are enough for the coating to get a foothold, other products that adhere via hydrogen bonds and static will likely remain the same. This is only an educated guess from my knowledge of the coating and I have not tested it.

I too have thought about this on many occasions. If you didn't want OC anymore and did want a sealant or wax to last more than a month you would have to polish and check or polish and check to avoid cutting to far int the clear beyond the OC.

I'm not saying there's a good reason or very many people that would want to remove the coating but for arguments sake...

Another thought I had is what if you sell the car and it is taken to a detailer who has no clue it's been opticoated. He polishes it and applies a product. Now say he polishes through the coating in some places and not in others. Then at some point it beads differently in some spots then others as the wax or sealant wears off faster on the opticoated areas.

It's really kind of an over analyzation but that's what we do on forums right?

I believe it to be much more likely that any full polishing cycle is going to remove the coating.

I think a single compounding step followed by a single polishing step would fully remove the coating. But, that's throwing caution to the wind and removing thickness for no real reason. This is contrary to the least aggressive method approach we all preach.

Polishing when there are defects is one thing, but just to try something else seems like it should break some detailer's hippocratic oath to do no harm. When you think of things like the UV absorbers migrating to the top during curing and ceramaclears losing hardness after removing the top couple of microns, there are many more reasons NOT to polish on and on.

As for the detailer scenario, it would never be noticed outside our circles. Most people use tunnel washes which add a product to the rinse that promotes beading so that the blowers can remove more water...so they will likely NEVER notice the beading loss/change. I even have to point out swirls to my customers. In the event that a detailer noticed this phenomenon, he would likely deduce that there was a coating at play since they have existed for a while now.

I realize that on a discussion forum, we tend to push the "what ifs" a little far and that can actually help further advance product development. With that said, we should be careful to state when we are speaking philosophically so that newbs don't take these threads as standard practice and get into trouble.
 
Chris, thanks for the tips.

So, basically you can top the OC with any wax or sealant product? Can that be done a few weeks after application or should you wait longer?
 
You can use any LSP type protection within a week, but if you use a cleaner wax with abrasives, you may want to wait longer.
 
I have some marring under OC 2.0, probably my MF picked up some dirt when i was buffing the residues. Can i repolish that area and then reapply OC? I've read that OC wont bind on a previous layer of itself.
 
I have some marring under OC 2.0, probably my MF picked up some dirt when i was buffing the residues. Can i repolish that area and then reapply OC? I've read that OC wont bind on a previous layer of itself.

That will be fine. OC will bond to itself within the window of it's cure time...and even after that if you polish in between. You should be good to go.
 
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