Question about Megs MG 7
- Thread starter Dugdug
- Start date
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 15,639
- 136
Um...that's not the first way I would have gone, even OTC. I don't think it's going to do what you want. It's not going to have really any cut, and it's not going to remove easily.
When you say 1-step, are you looking for some protection as well? There's a lot of options for that kind of thing.
When you say 1-step, are you looking for some protection as well? There's a lot of options for that kind of thing.
david79z28
New member
- Dec 6, 2010
- 551
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Here is some good info on #7.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
I am no help with all in ones as I have no personal experience with them.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
I am no help with all in ones as I have no personal experience with them.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 15,639
- 136
You could use Meg's ColorX, although I haven't. I think you'd be better off with a gallon of Poli-Seal/GPS or D151 from here, if you are using it for customers.
try Meg's MG #6 cleaner wax. its got some cut (did my whole car with it by hand), is pretty easy to work with, and does leave behind some protection. But with any AIO, never rely on it alone for solid protection. I did half my hood with it, half without, and looked at it under flourescent lighting. its no dedicated compound, but there definately was a difference, and left a very slick and shiny surface
Meticulous-Detail
New member
- Nov 15, 2011
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AIO with great protection and cleaning ability - DG 501
AOI with great cut and correction but little protection - Megs D151
If you use Megs # 6 try topping it with Collonite or another long lasting LSP.
AOI with great cut and correction but little protection - Megs D151
If you use Megs # 6 try topping it with Collonite or another long lasting LSP.
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
Correct. It is a pure polish and by Meguiar's definition, "pure" means non-abrasive, non-cleaning.
And a miracle product if you're into classic cars with original single stage paint. It's a very interesting product that's been around since the Model T, the car that transitioned our Grandparents off riding horses and driving what we now use the generic term for when we say car.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 15,639
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That's a really great suggestion if you can get it OTC...perhaps a boat store.
Mike@DedicatedPerfection
New member
- Feb 26, 2011
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+1. I would go with D151 for a great AIO with more cut and correction in it and chase that with your favourite LSP.
By the way it smells like that modeling clay used in school. I assume it's got a bunch of kaolin in it as a filler? It's actually not bad to get off if you're quick--you don't want it drying.
Does anyone know if I can put 845 over #7 or do I need to strip it first?
Does anyone know if I can put 845 over #7 or do I need to strip it first?
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
I've been in a laboratory and seen a version of kaolin clay that was a vapor...
I think too many people would think of it in some other form, such as a heavy powder or actually a clay type product but this stuff was simply smoke.
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
We're going to machine apply #7 before sealing the paint on this old 2-door Ford...
Sign-up: 1970 Mustang Machine Polishing Clinic - June 21st
Starting at 5:00pm we will be going over tips and techniques to machine polish paint on this 1970 Mustang. If you look down the page a little way you will see that while it looks shiny in the picture the paint has swirls, scratches and light oxidation that we're going to remove and then create a true show car finish.
* Limited to the first 12 people that sign-up.
Here's Don's Mustang, looks pretty good to the average person...
When you know how to truly inspect the finish on a Special Interest Car then you know there's a little room for improvement and if you think this car looks good in the above pictures wait till we warm it over by MACHINE! :buffing:
This is a full size section cropped out of the original above, no resizing.
Oxidized Single Stage Paint
The below is a reflection shot of the overhead florescent tube lights, what I want you to see is the dull, opaque look the paint has at the bottom of the reflection of the lights. This is light oxidation and even though the car looks beautiful in the pictures above, in person the paint has a dull sheen to it caused by oxidation. This is a single stage paint by the way.
Sign-up: 1970 Mustang Machine Polishing Clinic - June 21st
Starting at 5:00pm we will be going over tips and techniques to machine polish paint on this 1970 Mustang. If you look down the page a little way you will see that while it looks shiny in the picture the paint has swirls, scratches and light oxidation that we're going to remove and then create a true show car finish.
We will be broadcasting this machine polishing clinic live!
* Limited to the first 12 people that sign-up.
Here's Don's Mustang, looks pretty good to the average person...
When you know how to truly inspect the finish on a Special Interest Car then you know there's a little room for improvement and if you think this car looks good in the above pictures wait till we warm it over by MACHINE! :buffing:
This is a full size section cropped out of the original above, no resizing.
Oxidized Single Stage Paint
The below is a reflection shot of the overhead florescent tube lights, what I want you to see is the dull, opaque look the paint has at the bottom of the reflection of the lights. This is light oxidation and even though the car looks beautiful in the pictures above, in person the paint has a dull sheen to it caused by oxidation. This is a single stage paint by the way.
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
Here's what we're slated to use on the single stage enamel paint this coming Thursday night...
We'll machine apply the #7 after any correction work and before the application of the wax.
We'll machine apply the #7 after any correction work and before the application of the wax.