Opti-coat 2.0!!!!

Flannigan said:

How about humidity Chris? I have applied OC/OG to many cars, and had this same issue a couple times, and the only thing I could figure was the extremely high humidity and that I wasn't in my AC'd garage those days.

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Humidity will make it haze some but not look oily. Wiping a little sooner will fix a humidity issue. The oily issue has to be something preventing the bond unless this is something we haven't encountered yet...which is possible but doubtfully.


Sent from my IPhone

I bought a tube of Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 last year and just used it over the summer. I read its directions and watched a couple of videos to see if there was some tip or tick others offer but there really wasn't any, it's pretty straight forward.

What I can tell you is Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 doesn't fill so surface preparation is a must, otherwise you'll end up with some nicely protected swirls...

Clean the finish

Be sure you clean the surface thoroughly. This is probably the biggest cause for failed applications.

The instructions say to use an Isopropyl Alcohol mix spray to prepare the way for it's application. Personally, I clean the polished finish with mineral spirits then wipe with clean microfiber towels. Once through, I go over it with the Isopropyl Alcohol mix as a last step before applying the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 product.

Instructions

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS

Great Video

[video=youtube_share;Yyo_-UA8yM4&feature=related"]Opti-Coat Application Methods - YouTube[/video]

Nick did a nice writeup not too long ago that may help as well.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...2-0-permanent-paint-protection-made-easy.html

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 lays down thin, I mean really thin. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 should evaporate almost immediately.If you see depth to it like applying Ultima Paint Guard Plus it's way too think.I've done 2 cars and a full set of wheels with one tube and I still have some left.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s/53730-opticoat-2-0-problem-application.html

Post#9

Send chris a pm.

If it were me, I'd pick a panel and polish, not to aggressive, ipa then waterbead test.

Anything similar to PolishII or OHP.

Not a big deal, just dive right in...but watch a few videos and read a few threads before reapplication.

These are just my opinion gathered from reading 2.0 threads for the last 11 months.
I've never had to deal with your issue, personally.

thanks for the Video bobby makes you not so scared to try it lol

Not much is needed to remove haze on such a fresh application. You should be able to use Finish Polish or Poli Seal on a finishing pad. If you only polish until it clears up, you probably won't have to reapply because your ony trying to remove the excess that hazed and not the initial bond.

Question?
If the coating is hazy,but not cured...
and one chooses an AIO other than OPS to remove the haziness...

Could the polymers from using said other AIO interfere with the curing process, thus clarity of 2.0?


Curiosity strikes again.

Grease remover may have stripped or thinned it so close to application.

Vegas Transplant said:

Question?
If the coating is hazy,but not cured...
and one chooses an AIO other than OPS to remove the haziness...

Could the polymers from using said other AIO interfere with the curing process, thus clarity of 2.0?


Curiosity strikes again.

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To define terms:

Flashing refers to the bulk of the carrier evaporating leaving the product remaining on the surface.

Cross linking that covers the surface area occurs within 12 hours or so with Opti-Coat 2.0

Full curing or hardening will happen over 1-2 months as the carrier continues to dehydrate from the resin and cross linking ceases.

The whole process is "curing", but at different stages the coating has different attributes. You can wet it after an hour, you can wash it after 24hours with LSP safe shampoos or ONR, you can expose it to stronger chemicals after 1-2 weeks, and it reaches full hardness in 1-2 months depending on variables like heat and uv exposure.

When I tested the first samples of the pro version. It cross linked in about 30 minutes and was hardened in a week. This is great if you have the ability to fix an area of over application, but 2.0 may be installed by novices so we formulated it to have a longer cure time. By taking longer to harden, flaws are much easier to repair.

The pro version cured so fast, compounding was the only way to fix a goof...but, with a longer cure time 2.0 can be fixed with light polishes or AIO within the first couple of weeks. Another point is about removing the coating. There is no need to remove and reapply. Just like buffing off the excess with a MF while it's still a little wet will prevent a high spot while leaving the bonded layer of coating, when it drys you still only need to remove the excess that's causing the haze. By using light abrasives you can monitor the clarity and stop when the haze is no longer visible. This should leave a bonded coat remaining thus no need to reapply...unless you used a pad/product combo that is more aggressive than I've recommended or don't stop when the haze clears.

10-04.
good info...thanks once again Chris.

luv a shine said:

There's no water beading at all. I want to strip the OC completely . What is the best menz product for the job??? I am going to strip the coating Saturday and Sunday . Than apply an glaze and a LSP. I am not
going to us OC again it really made me mad . I spoke to seven at OPT hes said it was a bad batch of OC. I wasted 12 of product

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What applicator did you use? Was it new? I only ask because I did that <- v F150 in an extremely hot and humid garage, using roughly 8cc of product for paint only and aside from hazing extremely quick, it worked like a charm. Oh and the product was laying around for a year so that's got nothing to do with it. I think it has to be something in your process.

Ok...now I am curious...is this "bad batch" the stuff that came through yellowish in color?? I have some of that and was kind of waiting to make sure no one had problems with it.

snowking724 said:

What applicator did you use? Was it new? I only ask because I did that <- v F150 in an extremely hot and humid garage, using roughly 8cc of product for paint only and aside from hazing extremely quick, it worked like a charm. Oh and the product was laying around for a year so that's got nothing to do with it. I think it has to be something in your process.

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I hadn't appreciated the impact of high humidity, but it's clear that was one of my problems during my first OC application. It was quite warm and humid when I applied it, and it seemed to me to get hazy almost immediately. There was a *very* small window of time to catch and correct those spots. Coupled with poor lighting, and I was off to a bad start. Lesson learned for next time.