Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction??

theparmachine

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Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction??


So I just spend the afternoon yesterday putting a shine on my daily driver. I spent about an hour working through different polisher/pad/chemical options before proceeding to do the job.

I ended up with the Flex 14-2-150 rotary with a white pad with Ardex Stereo Glaze #2. Followed that up with Opti-Seal and man, what a shine. It's been forever since I used my DA and really thought I would end up using it but it would take much more extra effort and time to get the same result.

I have the Flex rotary, Flex da and Griot's Garage da and I don't know when the Griot's will ever get the call for me again. It's not about the Griot's because it's the best non-forced rotation da on the market, it's just that the other technologies are so much far superior.

I am not a pro, but I have been polishing my cars with a rotary since I was 17 years old. I can't see using the DA again.

So my question is, when do you guys use a da? Is there a purpose for it that I don't know about? Micrfiber pads are a help but still the other technologies are far superior.
 
I picked up my first rotary back in 1990 and now all 3 of them spend the majority of their time on the bench collecting dust. :D

With the right pads, polishes, and technique, DA's can equal or better the finish of a rotary on most paints in about the same amount of time....and they are 100% hologram free. ;)
 
You know its funny that you mention it because my G110v2 just s#it the bed and im thinking of picking up the 3401.
The 3401 is an acquired taste. You may not like it at first but stick with it and you will learn to love it!
 
I guess I need to go to Mike Phillips classes because I have not had the same experience.

The rotary is ALWAYS MUCH FASTER and in my experience the maximum correction and gloss. I have not been able to do my car in less than 8 hours with the da versus 5-6 with a rotary.
 
I have to say that lately I haven't used my PC much either. I tried using it recently on a job but felt it safer and quicker to use my Flex3401 or my rotary(usually equiped with HT 3" pads). The only thing I can say I use my PC on paint for is to extra carefully on a final finish polishing step or in areas that I can't use the Flex or don't want to possibly leave rotary swirls. Even applying wax recently I used the Flex over the PC as it is just easier not being concerned about the pad not rotating when working contours at low speeds. The PC probably comes into play more often now for me when doing dirty/stained interiors.
Plus with the rotary I don't have to worry about losing a tool that I need to change out pads like with the PC and 3401; have gone crazy a couple times looking for my PC wrench and the hex key/wrench for the 3401 when I didn't have an Allen wrench set on hand. Not with the rotary, just need a thumb to push the gear lock. And like Mike Phillips says, I always carry two thumbs with me wherever I go.;)LOL
 
The 3401 is an acquired taste. You may not like it at first but stick with it and you will learn to love it!

I don't have experience with the 3401 but do with the Dewalt's. I hope by having the 3401 and the 849x I can get away from the DA altogether. What pads are you using on your 3401?
 
I picked up my first rotary back in 1990 and now all 3 of them spend the majority of their time on the bench collecting dust. :D

With the right pads, polishes, and technique, DA's can equal or better the finish of a rotary on most paints in about the same amount of time....and they are 100% hologram free. ;)
Chad, you gotta tell us how you like the RUPE Bigfoot when you get it! That looks like an amazing DA with a 21 mm stroke! That is much more than tthe 3401 you sold me.
 
I wouldn't want to use a DA to cut on a large area bc that would take forever. I'm a weekend warrior and I got other things to do than spend bunch of time detailing my car.

DA is just for final polishing or waxing, just something light duty.
 
With the right pads, polishes, and technique, DA's can equal or better the finish of a rotary on most paints in about the same amount of time....and they are 100% hologram free. ;)[/QUOTE]

That's true. What I have been doing is having all three tools (DA, 3401, and rotary) ready with different configurations for different parts of the car and/or steps. I know the PC can do as much damage as the rotary as I have gone through clear coat trying to remove sanding marks. That is why I use the rotary most the time now to work up to edges as smaller pads on the PC makes the center of the pad much harder to predict than the rotary; rotary has a lot less moving parts to keep track of allowing me to concentrate on the task at hand with more focus on the defect I am removing.
 
Which DA brand/model are you speaking of?
...

With the right pads, polishes, and technique, DA's can equal or better the finish of a rotary on most paints in about the same amount of time....and they are 100% hologram free. ;)
 
I don't have experience with the 3401 but do with the Dewalt's. I hope by having the 3401 and the 849x I can get away from the DA altogether. What pads are you using on your 3401?
I have the Dewalt 849X too. I use it to jewel. I use the 3401 with MF pads, LC or Optimum. I know this is ass-backwaerds but I agree with Chad, a DA or the 3401 will correct hologram free in short order. Chad will tell you the Flex isnt for everyone. I used the new Hybrid pad , blue, to finish my last time I finished with the Flex. BTW I like the LC BPs on the 3401 too.
 
I don't have experience with the 3401 but do with the Dewalt's. I hope by having the 3401 and the 849x I can get away from the DA altogether. What pads are you using on your 3401?
The 3401 is a DA..it may be forced rotation, but still a dual action none the less.
 
I have the Dewalt 849X too. I use it to jewel. I use the 3401 with MF pads, LC or Optimum. I know this is ass-backwaerds but I agree with Chad, a DA or the 3401 will correct hologram free in short order. Chad will tell you the Flex isnt for everyone. I used the new Hybrid pad , blue, to finish my last time I finished with the Flex. BTW I like the LC BPs on the 3401 too.
Jim, I'm one that don't care for the 3401.
 
I don't have experience with the 3401 but do with the Dewalt's. I hope by having the 3401 and the 849x I can get away from the DA altogether. What pads are you using on your 3401?

I use the LC CCS. I have heard the flat pads are easier but I have a ton of CCS and I can control them fine.
 
Chad, you gotta tell us how you like the RUPE Bigfoot when you get it! That looks like an amazing DA with a 21 mm stroke! That is much more than tthe 3401 you sold me.

Oh you can be sure I will be posting all about it. ;)


Which DA brand/model are you speaking of?


I'm mainly using my GG6 as of right now, though that will be changing shortly with my new Rupes LHR21 and custom G110v2 coming. ;)

A rotary does cut faster, but it usually leaves behind a less than perfect finish. What takes a rotary 3 steps can typically be done with 2 on a DA, which is where the DA makes up ground on the rotary. On top of that you have zero risk of holograms coming back with a DA. It take a lot of time and skill to finish hologram free with a rotary. I do still use a rotary from time to time, but it's almost always for jeweling or certain cars. The only time I really use it for cutting is when I'm wet sanding or working on extremely hard paint.
 
I use the LC CCS. I have heard the flat pads are easier but I have a ton of CCS and I can control them fine.

CCS pads will actually have a better user experience, but flat pads produce better results.
 
Flex rotary PE, purple foamed wool and M101 on a black Nissan Titan, works great and fast.

Less haze than anything we used with a DA.

Finished with same Rotary and 205 on white pad.
 
PM me if anyone is interested in selling a PC7424XP or Griots. Looking to start detailing my cars. Thanks!
 
A rotary does cut faster, but it usually leaves behind a less than perfect finish. What takes a rotary 3 steps can typically be done with 2 on a DA, which is where the DA makes up ground on the rotary. On top of that you have zero risk of holograms coming back with a DA. It take a lot of time and skill to finish hologram free with a rotary. I do still use a rotary from time to time, but it's almost always for jeweling or certain cars. The only time I really use it for cutting is when I'm wet sanding or working on extremely hard paint.

:iagree:

GG6 user here, which is used always with MF pad for heavy correction, for primarily 2 reasons; it finishes better than a rotary (reduced correction steps) and shorter learning curve. Only limitation for a DA i see is removal of sanding marks in corners and edges, where a rotary will be far more superior for this purpose.
But if you have the skill to finish properly with a rotary, then your blessed, you may have little use for your DA.:xyxthumbs:
 
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