Underhood Paint

T0RCH3D

T0RCH3D

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How's it goin guys! This may not be the section or forum for this question but I figured you all here have a very broad skill set and know a thing or two about automotive painting and more importantly clear coat application.

DSC07497.jpg


After removing the hood liner so the supercharger can breathe and reduce heat soak I was left with the underside of the hood looking like this. Ford did not paint the entire underside of the hood since their was the line covering it. So after looking at the underside of my hood with disgust every time I was working on the car and seeing how much of an eye sore it was I began to do some research and gathered the supplies in order to paint the hood myself. I came across a member on another forum who preformed this task with ease and incredible results. Anyways, it was not the most ideal setup and you can only expect so much from a "rattle can" job but I figured I would give it a shot and if I failed I would have it professionally done. All in all it went well, the prep and paint procedure came out flawless, but the clear application on the other hand was not so smooth. I don't want to chalk it up as a failed attempt until I have exhausted all other chances of fixing what I have done. Below is the products I used and the process with pictures:

Products:
12oz Aresol of "Torch Red" paint code Ford D3 (2 Cans)
12oz Aresol of High Gloss Clear Coat
8oz Aresol Duplicolor Gloss Clear (3 Cans)
2oz Spray Bottle of Prep Solvent Wax and Grease Remover
1 3M Tack Cloth
4630665890_ddb0e96d64_o.jpg


Goal:

4630414205_b13d90d67f_o.jpg



Process

First I removed the hood and brought it into a heated trailer around 60+ degrees I would say (outdoor temperature: 48 degrees). I sanded the stickers and other blemishes/defects that existed on the hood. Then masked the areas and used prep solvent and a tack cloth prepping for base coat number one.

DSC07535.jpg


After I proceeded to apply thin coats of on the hood. 5 coats total.

DSC07541.jpg


DSC07542.jpg


DSC07543.jpg


Now was time for clear. I wait 45 minutes after the last coat of paint and applied a medium of coat of clear. Then 2 more 15 minutes apart totaling in 3 coats and 1 full 12 oz can. The finish was almost similar to the look after final coat of paint. Very little added gloss. So I went to advanced and bought 3 8oz cans duplicolor clear coat. This added some gloss to the finish but not close to OEM finish.

Here is after 4 cans of clear. An improvement but minimal gloss:

DSC07556.jpg


Verdict?:

What can be done to achieve the gloss finish I am looking for. I did not put the hood back on the car due to myself not being satisfied and not finding an answer to the solution. I was told to wet sand at the finest grit paper with soapy water, but I do not see the benefit in this? Do I need to apply more clear, which is hard to believe? Do I need to apply clear in a different location/temperature? Was the duplicolor clear I used not a good product? Is it maybe the lighting? Any advice is appreciated!
 
T0RCH3D said:
How's it goin guys! This may not be the section or forum for this question but I figured you all here have a very broad skill set and know a thing or two about automotive painting and more importantly clear coat application.

DSC07497.jpg


After removing the hood liner so the supercharger can breathe and reduce heat soak I was left with the underside of the hood looking like this. Ford did not paint the entire underside of the hood since their was the line covering it. So after looking at the underside of my hood with disgust every time I was working on the car and seeing how much of an eye sore it was I began to do some research and gathered the supplies in order to paint the hood myself. I came across a member on another forum who preformed this task with ease and incredible results. Anyways, it was not the most ideal setup and you can only expect so much from a "rattle can" job but I figured I would give it a shot and if I failed I would have it professionally done. All in all it went well, the prep and paint procedure came out flawless, but the clear application on the other hand was not so smooth. I don't want to chalk it up as a failed attempt until I have exhausted all other chances of fixing what I have done. Below is the products I used and the process with pictures:

Products:
12oz Aresol of "Torch Red" paint code Ford D3 (2 Cans)
12oz Aresol of High Gloss Clear Coat
8oz Aresol Duplicolor Gloss Clear (3 Cans)
2oz Spray Bottle of Prep Solvent Wax and Grease Remover
1 3M Tack Cloth
4630665890_ddb0e96d64_o.jpg


Goal:

4630414205_b13d90d67f_o.jpg



Process

First I removed the hood and brought it into a heated trailer around 60+ degrees I would say (outdoor temperature: 48 degrees). I sanded the stickers and other blemishes/defects that existed on the hood. Then masked the areas and used prep solvent and a tack cloth prepping for base coat number one.

DSC07535.jpg


After I proceeded to apply thin coats of on the hood. 5 coats total.

DSC07541.jpg


DSC07542.jpg


DSC07543.jpg


Now was time for clear. I wait 45 minutes after the last coat of paint and applied a medium of coat of clear. Then 2 more 15 minutes apart totaling in 3 coats and 1 full 12 oz can. The finish was almost similar to the look after final coat of paint. Very little added gloss. So I went to advanced and bought 3 8oz cans duplicolor clear coat. This added some gloss to the finish but not close to OEM finish.

Here is after 4 cans of clear. An improvement but minimal gloss:

DSC07556.jpg


Verdict?:

What can be done to achieve the gloss finish I am looking for. I did not put the hood back on the car due to myself not being satisfied and not finding an answer to the solution. I was told to wet sand at the finest grit paper with soapy water, but I do not see the benefit in this? Do I need to apply more clear, which is hard to believe? Do I need to apply clear in a different location/temperature? Was the duplicolor clear I used not a good product? Is it maybe the lighting? Any advice is appreciated!
Click to expand...

It's really hard to say just looking at these pics but the clear appears to be applied a bit dry. Ugh it was a high gloss clear right? I have always sprayed a tack coat followed by wet coats making sure to allow for the necessary flash time. And I have only used House of Color clears.

My recommendation is to color sand a test area and buff it to see if the gloss comes up. I think a rattle can clear can do the job but with the lower price of HVLP air guns or availability of renting and or borrowing them there is a big advantage.

Keep us posted.
 
Thanks for the advice I was told to sand but am not too experienced with this, what do you recommend and what method? 2000 grit with soapy water, I don't want to mess up what I have done is the problem. Also any other links to high gloss OTC rattle cans I can attempt before sanding since it has had time to cure for 24+ hours now.
 
I agree It dose look somewhat dry in the pics. It's a challenge getting such a large panel wet enough for a good flow with rattle cans. You are are lucky the paint didn't curl and lift from mixing those two different brands of paint (clear)... very lucky as it makes a real mess scraping off all that blistered paint (when that happens).

You could wet sand and re-shoot just the clear trying to get it smoother. When you start spraying the clear it's going to flow better across the previous dried/sanded/smoother finish, so you may only need 1 to 2 wet coats.

Like the previous painter/poster suggested maybe find a professional spray gun. Devilbiss makes a decent economy gun that would be perfect for your application.
 
T0RCH3D said:
Thanks for the advice I was told to sand but am not too experienced with this, what do you recommend and what method? 2000 grit with soapy water, I don't want to mess up what I have done is the problem. Also any other links to high gloss OTC rattle cans I can attempt before sanding since it has had time to cure for 24+ hours now.
Click to expand...

Do a google search on "color sanding". Hot rod tech article has some great info. PM me if you need the URL. You will understand patience once you start color sanding. Pay attention to the. Urges and edges. 2000 is way too fine to start with.

Since it been applied with a rattle can it's probably pretty thin to start with. I'd try 1200 or 1500 grit no need to go finer. Let your compound and buffer do the rest. This is where a rotary buffer really shines ( no punning intended). You do have a rotary right? Words of advice, do not sand through the clear. Having a pant meter comes in handy to measure the thickness. Go slow have patience and use impecable technique. Did I mention patience?

Now that you have a catalized clear as a barrier if the above doesn't work just scuff and reshoot clear.

Remember just do a test section to see if you get your desired results.
 
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Thank you for the above advice, I have not color sanded before and am a tad worried I will burn thru the clear into the paint and have to start over. I feel there is a good ammount of paint on there but clear not so much. Would lightly going over the hood with minimum to no downward pressure with a fine sandpaper like 1500 to avoid any error even benefit my situation or simply be a waste of time. If I understand correctly the purpose in this is to get into the top layer of clear and create a smooth surface for the next layers of clear to bond too.

Would another option be since I am less experienced with this go over the hood with a DA polisher? I do not have a rotary. Has the hood cured long enough for this? (almost 48 hours).
 
I read the hotrod tech article and it was very helpful in ensuring proper technique though it doesn't mention the downward pressure needed. Would I follow the same steps to my vehicle that has been sprayed with only a rattle can, not as much clear on the surface (dull)? Says starting with 600, maybe I start with 1500?

What is the process taken after sanding, seems they are sanding to create a finished product, can I apply more clear on top of the sanding?

How long there after would I wait to use the buffer.
 
Bump. Plan to continue on this after work, would appreciate guidance
 
T0RCH3D said:
I read the hotrod tech article and it was very helpful in ensuring proper technique though it doesn't mention the downward pressure needed. Would I follow the same steps to my vehicle that has been sprayed with only a rattle can, not as much clear on the surface (dull)? Says starting with 600, maybe I start with 1500?

What is the process taken after sanding, seems they are sanding to create a finished product, can I apply more clear on top of the sanding?

How long there after would I wait to use the buffer.
Click to expand...

You're good to color sand and buff now. The purposes of color sanding is to flatten any imperfections primarily orange peel. Then buff (some call it cut) the finish to a gloss shine. My experience has been after spraying clear it is glossy. Much like sanding primer with a guide coat to show highs and lows this can be done with the clear coat. Again the purpose is to have a dead flat finish so that a buffer can bring back the shine.

As I posted I would recommend 1200 or 1500 grit automotive sandpaper with a sanding block. Go slow at first you'll get the hang of it. BTW Meg 105 compound can easily take out 1200 grit sanding marks, follow with Megs 205 to polish then apply your favorite wax.

I'll suggest again only do a test spot maybe 18"X18" to see if you will get the desired result. If not scuff the surface and respray clear. One tack (light coat) then 2 wet coats with flash time inbetween should be ample. Now you're back to color sanding and buffing. Keep us posted.
 
You do not have to apply much pressure when wet sanding. You'll get the hang of it and feel how much bite the sandpaper has. Just make sure you cover the test area evenly using good technique. Drying the area will show highs and lows or spray a contrasting color guide coat. Aagin you're just trying to flatten the finish.
 
Great thank you. Just one more question for you, the dull finish is not an error by me it is just because the imperfections and because it isn't polished? Sorry for the questions just trying to better understand if I did anything incorrectly for next time. Because if it was dull I figured I would try and add another coat of clear then sand and buff then after. Thanks again you have been a huge help!
 
I want to say the dull appearance has some to do with both the paint, and application technique.

When spraying paint you want to spray it how you want it to look, meaning put it on medium to wet. Large areas like you have on the bottom of the hood will be difficult to acheive nice results as well. The 1k clearcoat you have is almost impossible to use with good results. I would sand the panel back down and try a catalyzed clearcoat, which means it is activated with a hardener. The local automotive paint store may have something in a 2k aerosol can. The price is a bit higher, but so is the end result.

Or you can always find someone to spray it for you?
 
Great advice as well, which clear do you recommend 2k? Also after sanding and reapplying clear do you sand again there after?
 
I have used different brands, but your local automotive paint supply store should be able to help. I believe Spray Max was the brand I have used in the past with good results. It is a 2 part clearcoat in 1 can, punch a valve at the bottom and shake to mix the 2 components.
 
Automotive paint stores? I have advanced auto, autozone, and general Sherman Williams paint stores? Advanced doesn't have much maybe I can check out autozone but I am sure it is similar. I am just looking for a catalyzed clear
 
T0RCH3D said:
Great thank you. Just one more question for you, the dull finish is not an error by me it is just because the imperfections and because it isn't polished? Sorry for the questions just trying to better understand if I did anything incorrectly for next time. Because if it was dull I figured I would try and add another coat of clear then sand and buff then after. Thanks again you have been a huge help!
Click to expand...

I missed it but KP I think nailed it...you have to use a 2K clear. I used a rattle can 2K made by MAX recently on a mail box with good results. Remember to wear an appropriate mask when using catalyzed products, nasty stuff to inhale.

To answereyou're Q's; 1K will spray glossy just not as durable and something sitting above an engine you want to be durable. IMO all the paint was sprayed too thin/dry. 5 coats of base coat should not be needed. Final coat of clear was not wet enough thereby giving you a dull appearance. Mixing brands of clear is just asking for trouble. Clear is the toughest to spray correctly.

I like DIY projects because you learn many things but sometimes it's best to take it to a professional. Save money by preping the hood talk to the painter and they will make suggestions on how to save some coin. For the most part I've stopped painting and my skills have diminished. Now everything is water based here in CA! Just be very careful with catalyzed products they can mess with your health.

2K clears can be bought online. You need an automotive paint store not a parts store. Use yellowpages or google search for your location but it has to be automotive paint store.
 
T0RCH3D said:
Automotive paint stores? I have advanced auto, autozone, and general Sherman Williams paint stores? Advanced doesn't have much maybe I can check out autozone but I am sure it is similar. I am just looking for a catalyzed clear
Click to expand...

Automotive paint stores would carry house of kolor and dupont auto paint and cater to body shops.

I'll be surprised if you can get the results you want with spray cans if that pic of the other hood is your goal. If you want it to look that nice you'll have to have a pro do it.
 
The person that did that hood in the picture used the same steps as me, he gave me the idea. Anyways, after all the advice given in this thread I am thinking of having a local collision shop finish it up. Sand it and reapply clear. How much you think this will run me considering the surface is prepped and painted already?
 
T0RCH3D said:
The person that did that hood in the picture used the same steps as me, he gave me the idea. Anyways, after all the advice given in this thread I am thinking of having a local collision shop finish it up. Sand it and reapply clear. How much you think this will run me considering the surface is prepped and painted already?
Click to expand...

Don't throw in the towel just yet you are close. 2 cans of 2K will be more than enough to finish the hood. Assuming you have the necessary equipment to finish the job go for it. If time is a concern let the body shop handle it. They can bang it out quick.

Cost? Depends where you live. Most panels run $400-500 for the full treatment. My guess is clear only $250. Catch the painter on the day he's already shooting clear or give them the hood with no time frame and $150 might be doable.
 
Time isn't as much a concern as much as having a good end result. I feel I am capable and would love to learn but it seems I am far off from getting the results I want with a rattle can.

Being that I am almost halfway there and you guys have helped me out giving me the right steps for success I am going continue the hood and document my progress. If all else fails, I then will have a body shop sand it and clear it at a later date.

So now to purchase the supplies, I would like to purchase locally instead of ordering online if possible and have found Sherman Williams Automotive Finishes about 15 miles from me. Did not find any others, but not really sure what to look for. Anyways, they have a pretty large online selection but I am not sure if they will have what I am looking for. I also need 1500 and 2000 grit paper the highest I have is 600 grit, where is the cheapest place to find this. I am sure any parts store carries this, also are the rubber sanding pads worth considering for this process? Thanks.

I plan on sanding with 1500. Then applying a thin guide coat of 2K clear then following suite with 2000 grit. After I will apply 2-3 wet coats of clear. Then wait 24 hours and hit it with M205, seal with Blackfire and apply a coat of 845 on top of that.

Thoughts and comments are welcome. I appreciate everyones input so far and will be sure to document my work.
 
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