My first detailing (disaster)

andres

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About two months ago, I was looking for a detailing shop for my E-350, 2011. I came across one that offered Wolfgang Paint Sealer, and after searching for this product in the internet, I ended up at autogeek.net. Browsing autogeekonline forum, I got really interested in this new-to-me form of art, so I ended up ordering Wolfgang products, and I applied them to my MB by hand...

About two weeks ago, my daughter got admitted in UF. I then realized it was time for me to get another car (for her), and I decided to make an offer for a Basalt Black, Boxster 09 (yes, I wanted to experience the challenge presented by a black paint as I’d read so much about in the forums). At the dealership, I was so confident on my recently, virtually-acquired detailing knowledge, that I used some scratches and chip in the car to negotiate hard the selling price (and it was a real success; thanks autogeek community; now, I could justify to my wife ordering the Flex3401 with an army of pads, etc., that Nick had recommended a few days earlier).

So, I started by correcting some chips in the hood by using some touch-up paint (abundantly first, then, going over it with 1500+2000 grit, and finalizing with some Meguiars Ultimate Compound -not M105 because Mike advises using the least aggressive first :iagree:. To step UC down, I'll use ScratchX 2.0, and follow with M9 Swirl Remover 2.0; later I’d have come over with the Wolfgang Polish Enhance followed by 2 times Paint Sealer 3.0, and finishing with M26.

I was sort of satisfied with the first result of this correction, but I planned to come back to it later on for improvement. I proceeded to apply UC to the rest of the hood. However, some new imperfections began to appear that UC had made more evident, while being unable to correct, with every subsequent pass. Here is an example of what I saw (see squares enclosing the defects) after the first few passes with UC:
View attachment 14299

Encourage by my 15-minute wet-sanding experience, I decided to help UC a bit by applying 1500/2000 to some of the most prominent defects in the hood. After a while, the (amateurish) decision was then made to wet-sand the entire hood.
After wet-sanding -> UC-> ScratchX->M9->WPPE, the hood started to look amazing, except for the yet-to-be-retouched paint chip mentioned before. For the retouch, I decide to use more paint, enough to refill the chip and to cover an adjacent surface area (significantly large, about an inch in diameter). And here is the result…
View attachment 14300

I expect most would say I simply abuse the paint, but I strongly believe that in addition to that, the main contributor to this disaster was applying the touch up paint to a large area. You see I suspect that doing so compromises chemically the surrounding clear coat (practically dissolving it). In fact, something similar happened in the front-end fender (which I didn't wet-sand at all, but did used similar stupidity of putting too much paint around the chip)
View attachment 14301

Your opinion about this would be greatly appreciated (hopefully before I decide “detail” my son’s Audi, and my wife’s E-350).
Cheers
Andres
 
Looks to me like a burn through the clear coat, most likely from the sanding, not the painting. Using a buffer with compound is technically sanding the car because it is removing clear. Clear on newer cars is already thin and you really have to have a feel for sanding these newer finishes. 1500 grit is pretty aggressive depending on the pressure being applied and the sanding block being used. This is where a junk yard scrap panel comes in handy, usually $50, view it like an insurance policy.

Heres a test for you, take a clean cloth with polish on it and see if the cloth turns black (your base color) when you polish it by hand. If it does the clear is gone. If it doesn't you may have a very thin layer of clear still left. In either case I bet you'll need to respray the fender to blend the clear.

PS Welcome to the forum!
 
Thanks a lot, Magnus.

If I’m not mistaken, I think I can distinguish three layers around that burn; I believe I see primer, base and clear coat.

Frankly, during the process, I did look at the pad, but I didn’t notice any significant amount of paint on it. Only when I was working the excess touch paint, did I notice the effect you’re referring to.

Yes, I’ve got a quote for about $11K to correct both hood and fender; they said trying to correct these two spot is very unreliable (or they cannot guarantee it will be unnoticeable).
 
Thanks a lot, Magnus.

If I’m not mistaken, I think I can distinguish three layers around that burn; I believe I see primer, base and clear coat.

Frankly, during the process, I did look at the pad, but I didn’t notice any significant amount of paint on it. Only when I was working the excess touch paint, did I notice the effect you’re referring to.

Yes, I’ve got a quote for about $11K to correct both hood and fender; they said trying to correct these two spot is very unreliable (or they cannot guarantee it will be unnoticeable).

I would have to agree that the whole panel is going to need to be sprayed...but 11K???
 
By the way, I’ve got two quotes saying they will apply one coat of base color followed by 2 of clear coat. The third quote I got told me that was incorrect for a Basalt Black Porsche, for this requires three coats: 1 primer, one base, plus one clear coat. Any suggestion about which quote to go for?
 
Basecoat then clear is correct for a spot repair. If the panel is taken to metal then yes primer base and clear is the process. Most shops will opt for a blended repair and will warrantee their work. Aprox $500 per panel is correct.

A blended spot repair is fine. They actually respray the entire panel and blend it into the next.

If it were me I'd opt for trying a spot repair yourself first but sorta depends on your experience level. It's not all that difficult. OTH if you just want it done quickly and right have it professionally treated.

Keep us posted. I freaked when I saw your first post of $11K.
 
Is it just me or is anyone else seeking a freaky looking smiley face In that second pic ?


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
 
How long should I wait after repainting these panels before I can polish and/or seal them?
Cheers
Andres
 
Throughout life, there are those times we learn through mistakes and this is one of them..

The layers of paint manufactures apply today are in my opinion dangerously thin. For the most part this is done to save money but too mush paint can also be an issue. A good paint shop will math the color and have it looking good in a day. If they force dry the panel you can do pretty much anything you want to it in a few days, otherwise wait 30 before applying sealants or wax...
 
The hood and fender of the above car has been repainted (picked it up yesterday). Now, I noticed some orange peel and sanding marks. So far, I’ve mainly read orange peel requires wet sanding, whereas sanding marks is corrected by compounding. Frankly, based on my recent experience and the softness of Glasurit paint (which was used to repaint this car), I’d rather stay away from wet sanding; also, I’m afraid the wet-sanding+compounding combination may be removing too much clear-coat material and compromise the longevity of the paint. I have recently purchased the Flex 3401 equipped with some purple foam wool pad plus an assortment of Lake County orange, yellow … black pads. So, I wonder if I can use any of these pads and certain compound (any recommendations?) in order to correct orange peel. Also, how long should I wait before any surface correction/protection can be applied on these repainted surfaces?
 
How long should I wait after repainting these panels before I can polish and/or seal them?
Cheers
Andres

At the least 30 days. In colder weather I would say 45 days. You want to make sure that paint has cured. You can apply any body shop safe products for protection in the meantime.
 
Thanks, Toryamaha
If I have to wait for the paint to completely dry/cure, I think my chances of correcting orange peel by compounding is going to be difficult if not impractical…. ?...
 
The hood and fender of the above car has been repainted (picked it up yesterday). Now, I noticed some orange peel and sanding marks. So far, I’ve mainly read orange peel requires wet sanding, whereas sanding marks is corrected by compounding. Frankly, based on my recent experience and the softness of Glasurit paint (which was used to repaint this car), I’d rather stay away from wet sanding; also, I’m afraid the wet-sanding+compounding combination may be removing too much clear-coat material and compromise the longevity of the paint. I have recently purchased the Flex 3401 equipped with some purple foam wool pad plus an assortment of Lake County orange, yellow … black pads. So, I wonder if I can use any of these pads and certain compound (any recommendations?) in order to correct orange peel. Also, how long should I wait before any surface correction/protection can be applied on these repainted surfaces?

Have the paint shop take care of the orange peel. They shouldn't let it out of the shop that way in the first place. PLEASE DO NOT USE A 3401 WITH WOOL TO DO THE CORRECTION. You need to practice on a junk yard panel. Orange peel can be removed right away because the clear is still soft. Over time it hardens and is more difficult to sand. just don't seal new paint with wax for a month or two to allow for solvent gassing.

Orange peel can always be made to look better sometimes not completely removed however. Again I sound like a broken record but sanding clear correctly takes experience and that requires practice. A $50 junk yard panel or two can provide a world of experience.
 
Have the paint shop take care of the orange peel. They shouldn't let it out of the shop that way in the first place. QUOTE]

agreed
Workmanship defect
2 things
what is UF?
a Boxster,really? Im keeping my 4 kids away from here!
 
That's funny!

UF = University of Florida

Cheers
Andres
 
How long should I wait after repainting these panels before I can polish and/or seal them?
Cheers
Andres

Andres,

Didn't you say the shop was going to stand behind the paint repair? In that case you shouldn't need to do anything to the new paint. Give it time to cure and if it needs any work at all then take it to them. If it needs buffing then they'll do it for free. It will be easier, faster, and most importantly there will be no danger of sanding through the new repair.

If it is something that you just want to match your existing products with then ask their detail guy to use your 'stuff'. Most shop detailers will be glad to, and might even be willing to do a side job with you. (The one consideration is that the products you take them be "body shop safe")
 
Hey I just started on here been in this for about 20 years and am on my 4th detail shop I deal in high-end luxury cars and exotics. So if you have any questions I'm here. Thanks Steve
 
Cardaddy, Thanks a lot; that's really a good recommendation.

Steve, are you located in Miami, Fl, by any chance? After the pain cures and I resolve OP, etc., I want to investigate the possibility to spray Opti Guard (the Pro version) before or after some plastic protection in the hood, front fenders, etc.
 
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