First Post, First Polish

d9lowe

d9lowe

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Got sick of looking at the swirls and minor clearcoat scratches in my new '13 Tacoma (due to unproper washing techniques and it being black) and decided to polish them out this morning.

First time doing this and I think I did a good job. Took most of the day and I got about 90% out. Next time will be a lot smoother, and should hopefully only need the 205.

Enjoy the pics!!

Foam Gun
Rinse
2 bucket wash with Meg Gold Class
Dry
M105 W/Orange LC Pad
M205 W/Black LC Pad

Work done with a PC 7424
 
First off WELCOME!

Looks great!

I really love those trucks! I want one similar actually, is it an auto or a 6 speed??
 
Thanks And!! Its an Auto. Great truck so far, just hard to keep her clean as I like.
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online! :props:


Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Claying the finish is an important step that should be part of your detailing regime at least once annually. Claying removes embedded dirt and debris that would otherwise become dialoged and impart tinny scratches or similar defects.


Using Detailing Clay - By Mike Phillips

Baggie Test Tip from Paul aka 2old2change

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants

The 3 primary benefits of using detailing clay to clay paint

Tips and Tricks for using detailing clay

Do I need to wash my car after I use detailing clay to clay the paint?

Video: How detailing clay works and how to use detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminant


Here's a list of quality sealants that will protect the finish after all that hard work.


Wipe On and Walk Away Sealants (Clear)


Traditional Sealants (Haze and Buff)

 
Beautiful work and welcome to AGO! I have a 2012 black Tacoma. How did the M105 work out? Since my paint is butter soft I can't imagine taking a compound to her.
 
Welcome! Black takes a lot of time to keep clean, but sure looks good when it is!
 
BobbyG said:
:welcome: To Autogeek Online! :props:


Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Claying the finish is an important step that should be part of your detailing regime at least once annually. Claying removes embedded dirt and debris that would otherwise become dialoged and impart tinny scratches or similar defects.
Click to expand...

Bobby,

I had clayed it a few weeks ago, and it still felt butter smooth, so didn't feel the need to do so. Its amazing what that stuff does.
 
spiralout462 said:
Beautiful work and welcome to AGO! I have a 2012 black Tacoma. How did the M105 work out? Since my paint is butter soft I can't imagine taking a compound to her.
Click to expand...

Thanks spiral,
Seemed to do a good job. It would take out most of the marks, and the 205 did the rest. Is 105 too hard for our paint? How would I know?
 
Welcome to AG and that black is blaaaack! (Talking about the color the paint.....BOB)

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
d9lowe said:
Thanks spiral,
Seemed to do a good job. It would take out most of the marks, and the 205 did the rest. Is 105 too hard for our paint? How would I know?
Click to expand...

I haven't needed anything more aggressive than a fine cut finishing polish on my truck. In my experience M205 on a white LC pad provides enough cut for most defects. I really like Wolfgang Finishing Glaze prior to any wax or sealant. It provides maximum gloss and some correction ability. Every paint system is different, even cars produced on the same line. I strive to use the "least aggressive products to get the job done". What size pads did you use? The truck is beautiful!
 
spiralout462 said:
I haven't needed anything more aggressive than a fine cut finishing polish on my truck. In my experience M205 on a white LC pad provides enough cut for most defects. I really like Wolfgang Finishing Glaze prior to any wax or sealant. It provides maximum gloss and some correction ability. Every paint system is different, even cars produced on the same line. I strive to use the "least aggressive products to get the job done". What size pads did you use? The truck is beautiful!
Click to expand...


Thanks spiral. The pads I used were 5.5". I could have tried just the 205, but I wanted to make sure I got most of the marks out. Next time around I will try just the 205. Had her out around town today in the sun. Looks better than the day I drove her of the lot!! Ill look into that Wolfgang product you talk of!
 
Next time you order you should look into some 3"or 4" pads for the tight spots. I like them for the bumper and fenders especially. It really is amazing how good the paint can look!
 
spiralout462 said:
Next time you order you should look into some 3"or 4" pads for the tight spots. I like them for the bumper and fenders especially. It really is amazing how good the paint can look!
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing and was going to start a thread asking about the smaller pads. Do you know if they work with my PC without changing the counterweight? Around the door frames too. Should cut down on some of the splatter also!!
 
Yeah, they're a must have in my opinion. The counterweight on it is good, you will need a 3" or 3.5" backing plate depending on the size of pads you choose. I like the 4" Hydrotechs over the CCS spot buffs however, I have been looking into other options to try.
 
d9lowe said:
Thanks spiral. The pads I used were 5.5". I could have tried just the 205, but I wanted to make sure I got most of the marks out. Next time around I will try just the 205. Had her out around town today in the sun. Looks better than the day I drove her of the lot!! Ill look into that Wolfgang product you talk of!
Click to expand...

Sounds like you did the right process. With M105 you can expect some hazing it's a compound after all. Softer paint hazes more than hardeer paint. Remember you need to remove the defects first. Since you spent most of the day and used a PC I'd say you hit the nail on th head. Results speak for themselves.

Its a good idea to use the least aggressive pocess as possible. Just remeember you can use different pads with different products to vary the outcome. ie; M105 w/ white pad (polishing pad). This will reduce it's agressiveness. M205 with a yellow or tangerine cutting pad amps up the cut. You get the idea.

BTW M205 is traditionally used w/ a polishing pad (white) might speed the polish step up for you next time.

Truck looks great.
 
rmagnus said:
Sounds like you did the right process. With M105 you can expect some hazing it's a compound after all. Softer paint hazes more than hardeer paint. Remember you need to remove the defects first. Since you spent most of the day and used a PC I'd say you hit the nail on th head. Results speak for themselves.

Its a good idea to use the least aggressive pocess as possible. Just remeember you can use different pads with different products to vary the outcome. ie; M105 w/ white pad (polishing pad). This will reduce it's agressiveness. M205 with a yellow or tangerine cutting pad amps up the cut. You get the idea.

BTW M205 is traditionally used w/ a polishing pad (white) might speed the polish step up for you next time.

Truck looks great.
Click to expand...


Thanks rmagnus,
That's what I was going to do. I have read a few places that the 205 and white pad go good together. The black pad I used said it has no cut, but it came with the AG kit I bought so I tried it out. I will order some white pads and some smaller ones also with my next order. Thanks everyone for the nice comments and helpful info!!
:xyxthumbs:
 
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