Problem with meguiars leather cleaner

jackychai

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I believe it has decent cleaning ability. However it always stains/breaches the leather and the stain/breaches is always uneven making the leather looked unevenly cleaned.

Looking for a substitute.

I am thinking of blackfire or wolfgang leather cleaner. They are about the same price but rather expensive.

I saw lots of people using diluted APC. Is this safe but powerful enough?

Please advice.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using AG Online
 
You should look into leather masters product line. Autogeek carries the full line.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
You should look into leather masters product line. Autogeek carries the full line.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

I have not try their products but i believe they are awesome. However they also cost alot more...

Sent from my SGH-T989 using AG Online
 
This past week I detailed two family vehicles with leather interiors.

I used Lexol leather cleaner, which is a gentle cleaner for routine maintenance. It's easily found OTC and is inexpensive. But it's not effective for tough stains.

For cleaning stubborn stains, I've found that diluted APC is more effective than many of the costly leather cleaners. I used OPC (Optimum) 1:1 on problem spots and it worked like a charm. It did not harm the leather surface, which is actually a layer of polyurethane that covers most modern leather interiors. It's important to finish with a damp cloth to remove all residue.
 
This past week I detailed two family vehicles with leather interiors.

I used Lexol leather cleaner, which is a gentle cleaner for routine maintenance. It's easily found OTC and is inexpensive. But it's not effective for tough stains.

For cleaning stubborn stains, I've found that diluted APC is more effective than many of the costly leather cleaners. I used OPC (Optimum) 1:1 on problem spots and it worked like a charm. It did not harm the leather surface, which is actually a layer of polyurethane that covers most modern leather interiors. It's important to finish with a damp cloth to remove all residue.


thanks for your info.

what about if the leather is more in good condition? you know those leather with ripped pattern and do you think they will still have some kind of coating on it?

what would be a nice APC to start with? I currently only have meguiars APC and I am not a big fan of Meg except the 105/205.
 
You should look into leather masters product line. Autogeek carries the full line.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

:iagree:I am very pleased with the Leather Master Products I have!
 
May I ask, which Meguiar's leather product are you using?

Just curious.

Bill
 
thanks for your info.

what about if the leather is more in good condition? you know those leather with ripped pattern and do you think they will still have some kind of coating on it?

what would be a nice APC to start with? I currently only have meguiars APC and I am not a big fan of Meg except the 105/205.
I'm not sure about the ripped pattern you are referring to. If you mean leather with perforations, then yes, it is usually coated. You can test for coating very simply by performing the water drop test. Just pour a drop of water on the leather. If it beads up and rolls off, then it is coated. If it is absorbed by the leather and forms a little water stain, then it is uncoated.

I use Optimum Power Clean (OPC) as my APC, diluted 1:1. I use OPC as my last-resort "nuclear option" when other cleaners can't handle tough areas. You can dilute it in other ratios to adjust the concentration and strength. It's important to rinse it off after using to remove any residue.
 
I've never seen this happen and I've used it on alot of different cars.
What year, make and model car are you getting these results on?
And you should go to Meguiar's Thursday Night Open Garage, by John Wayne Airport, and let them look at your problem.
 
:iagree:I am very pleased with the Leather Master Products I have!

I will definitely try some in the future.


May I ask, which Meguiar's leather product are you using?

Just curious.

Bill

I believe it is D181. the gallon size is in black bottle.

I'm not sure about the ripped pattern you are referring to. If you mean leather with perforations, then yes, it is usually coated. You can test for coating very simply by performing the water drop test. Just pour a drop of water on the leather. If it beads up and rolls off, then it is coated. If it is absorbed by the leather and forms a little water stain, then it is uncoated.

I use Optimum Power Clean (OPC) as my APC, diluted 1:1. I use OPC as my last-resort "nuclear option" when other cleaners can't handle tough areas. You can dilute it in other ratios to adjust the concentration and strength. It's important to rinse it off after using to remove any residue.

OPC will be added to the cart soon. thinking what size should I get...

I've never seen this happen and I've used it on alot of different cars.
What year, make and model car are you getting these results on?
And you should go to Meguiar's Thursday Night Open Garage, by John Wayne Airport, and let them look at your problem.

Actually it happens alot to me. maybe the one I have turn bad? I dont quite believe so because I got it not too long ago from Meguiars...

and I have tried on many cars. the black leather does not seem obvious i guess because of the darkness. but if I try on Tan color, it is very obvious and I forgot to take pictures, too bad. otherwise I can show u guys.

the lexus RX330 and ferrari california are the 2 I remember for sure. and I was so nervous that I try to use the leather cleaner to clean it many times, hoping the breaching would be more even and unnoticeable... scared the xxxx out of me before the color look more even.

P.S. maybe it is not really breaching, but those spots look extraordinarily clean while the rest of the area are still darkened by dirt...
 
That's odd. I have heard nothing but good things about D181. There have been some nice write ups about D181 on AG. You should contact Meguiars.
 
How ate you applying it to the seat? By spray or by a flip top on a bottle? Ive found a very light most works best so it doesn't spot the leather and allows you to work it in better.
 
Sounds more like an issue with the OP's technique than with the product. To the OP, can you go into as much detail as possible as to the steps you take to clean a seat?

I personally divide a seat into sections and clean one section at a time using an appropriate brush that works well with the level of soiling that I am dealing with. Sometimes there are three or four stitch bordered sections in the part of the seat that you sit on, I'll spray my product on only one of these sections, then work it in with my brush in circular motions overlapping by 50% until I reach the other side of the section "just like working a section of the paint with a polisher, back and forth with a 50% overlap."

Then if the seat requires more agitation, I'll switch directions and work my brush in circular motions going in the opposite direction of the first section pass that I did with the brush. These circular motions and overlapping passes allow your brush to get down into the texture or grain of the seat material and clean out soils and or oils that would otherwise be simply wiped over with a towel alone, leaving a seat that's still dirty. After these section passes are finished in that section, I'll go over that section with my MF towel to remove the dirt and APC residue that my brush just worked up and then, finally go over it with my water dampened MF towel to remove any left over APC film that might be present.

This technique creates a very clean and even looking section of the seat and once I achieve the look I am after in that first section, I repeat the process from the initial spray of APC, to final wipe down for the next section of the seat and then move to the next section etc. etc.

I always work my leather seats one section at a time from bottom to top. I never start at the top and allow the cleaner to run down into an uncleaned section, as this creates uneven looking panels because a streak (or streaks) of cleaner "if allowed to dwell" will make a streak that is cleaner than the rest of the seat and will create a situation where you have to work harder and longer than you would normally have to to get the seat looking even again.

My rule is..."No streaks of cleaner anywhere on any part of the car..ever..." Wash from top to bottom (any part of the car) but any application of a cleaner that's stronger than a car wash concentrate or a QD must be applied from the bottom to the top, and never allowed to dry before you get to agitating it.

Gravity only ever aids in bringing soap suds and grit down the exterior of the car in the initial washing and rinsing process. In almost all other duties auto detailing related, gravity causes more work if you don't stay ahead of it. Never let it streak down and you'll never have to fix a streaky looking anything. If you ever find yourself working backwards, correct the issue that caused the back up and remember next time to try something different. Constant self improvement not only saves time, but it produces better looking results too.

A little insight into how I think and do things in my shop. Hope it helps someone. TD
 
That's odd. I have heard nothing but good things about D181. There have been some nice write ups about D181 on AG. You should contact Meguiars.
That's what i thought too, good cleaning ability with low price...


How ate you applying it to the seat? By spray or by a flip top on a bottle? Ive found a very light most works best so it doesn't spot the leather and allows you to work it in better.
I usually vacuum the seats first and spray a little on the leather and lightly scrub with the horse hair brush that AG sells if they are heavily soiled. if lightly soiled I just spray and wipe away the cleaner and rewipe with clean damp MF cloths..


Sounds more like an issue with the OP's technique than with the product. To the OP, can you go into as much detail as possible as to the steps you take to clean a seat?

I personally divide a seat into sections and clean one section at a time using an appropriate brush that works well with the level of soiling that I am dealing with. Sometimes there are three or four stitch bordered sections in the part of the seat that you sit on, I'll spray my product on only one of these sections, then work it in with my brush in circular motions overlapping by 50% until I reach the other side of the section "just like working a section of the paint with a polisher, back and forth with a 50% overlap."

Then if the seat requires more agitation, I'll switch directions and work my brush in circular motions going in the opposite direction of the first section pass that I did with the brush. These circular motions and overlapping passes allow your brush to get down into the texture or grain of the seat material and clean out soils and or oils that would otherwise be simply wiped over with a towel alone, leaving a seat that's still dirty. After these section passes are finished in that section, I'll go over that section with my MF towel to remove the dirt and APC residue that my brush just worked up and then, finally go over it with my water dampened MF towel to remove any left over APC film that might be present.

This technique creates a very clean and even looking section of the seat and once I achieve the look I am after in that first section, I repeat the process from the initial spray of APC, to final wipe down for the next section of the seat and then move to the next section etc. etc.

I always work my leather seats one section at a time from bottom to top. I never start at the top and allow the cleaner to run down into an uncleaned section, as this creates uneven looking panels because a streak (or streaks) of cleaner "if allowed to dwell" will make a streak that is cleaner than the rest of the seat and will create a situation where you have to work harder and longer than you would normally have to to get the seat looking even again.

My rule is..."No streaks of cleaner anywhere on any part of the car..ever..." Wash from top to bottom (any part of the car) but any application of a cleaner that's stronger than a car wash concentrate or a QD must be applied from the bottom to the top, and never allowed to dry before you get to agitating it.

Gravity only ever aids in bringing soap suds and grit down the exterior of the car in the initial washing and rinsing process. In almost all other duties auto detailing related, gravity causes more work if you don't stay ahead of it. Never let it streak down and you'll never have to fix a streaky looking anything. If you ever find yourself working backwards, correct the issue that caused the back up and remember next time to try something different. Constant self improvement not only saves time, but it produces better looking results too.

A little insight into how I think and do things in my shop. Hope it helps someone. TD

thanks for your long reply, i am sure I learn something!
and the Streaking is what I meant. however, the strange part is that as soon as the mist hits the leather, it streaks. even i immediately agitate with the horse hair brush, it is already too late.

even if I apply alot of cleaner after the streaking it will not streak the rest of the leather...

and the process you use is very similar to mine, just I do it from the top down, i will do it the other way from now on.

thanks.
 
I love d181. It will streak and spot if sprayed on and allowed to dwell. You must quickly spread product evenly. On heavily soiled leather i use a citrus based (dlimonene) cleaner first and then apply d181, applying to microfiber and rubbing into leather. This gives a nice, even and clean look. I tried every product in the world and i loce this system.
 
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