question on claying

white2001yukon

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I recently washed,polished, and waxed my black stang. but I did not clayed it. If I clayed now do I have to polish and waxed again? also what clay do you recommend?
 
I think it depends on what clay you use..some are more aggresive than others. Clay Magic's stuff is very light and does not remove wax, polish, etc, according to their info.
 
Anytime I clay, I always follow up with at least wax. The clay is going to remove the particles in the paint, that means its going to remove the wax, too. Just my opinion...
 
It really doesn't bother me to do it again, but just wanted to know. I need to get a PC though, easier on the hands.
 
white2001yukon said:
It really doesn't bother me to do it again, but just wanted to know. I need to get a PC though, easier on the hands.

pretty sure you didn't really polish anything if you didn't have at least a PC....
 
Polishing is not protection, so it can't be "removed" per say. Claying would make the paint feel more even and smooth, but it'll remove the wax.

I'd say just wait like two weeks or three weeks, then clay, and re-wax. Dependent on your weather conditions though, if it rains, then maybe shorter.
 
Well, its been like 3 weeks since I did all that. But its been raining almost everyday for like two weeks now. I did took my car to a body shop and the guy told me he was going to 3000 sand the whole car and then polish with the machine, I don't know what products he used but the job looked alright.This was right before I applied klasse AIO and the NB paste wax.
 
white2001yukon said:
Well, its been like 3 weeks since I did all that. But its been raining almost everyday for like two weeks now. I did took my car to a body shop and the guy told me he was going to 3000 sand the whole car and then polish with the machine, I don't know what products he used but the job looked alright.This was right before I applied klasse AIO and the NB paste wax.

Forgive me if I missed it but why was he sanding the vehicle? What are you trying to remove with clay? Just wondering that's all...um..got any pictures? :D
 
ok....and why is he going to sand your car with 3K grit???
 
something sounds fishy there..post some pics and describe the surface
 
Well, when I bought the car it looked like the paint had never been buffed before. The paint looked a little faded especially on the hood. He said that sanding the car a little would remove the burn-like paint. I took my car to him a little before I started reading on this forums a lot. Now that I know a little more, I would rather bought a PC and did it myself with AG products. I do not have close up pictures of my car, or how the car looked before. But this how
it looks now.
CRIM0011.jpg


CRIM0012.jpg


CRIM0007.jpg
 
Without the close ups on the paint ill say that that car dont need a sanding.

Pinnacle Polyclay, PC, Something from the XMT series and a good sealer would do it good, then top it with Pinnacle Liquid Souveran and post pics here at AGF ;)
 
Actually I took this pictures right after I left his shop. Then like a week or two later I ordered the Klasse AIO, and Natty blue paste wax. With the polish and wax my paint did not seem to get a deeper or shinier, it actually looks almost the same. idk maybe cause I applied this products by hand :o
 
Without swirl correction, I swear by DuraGloss 101 and Pinnacle Liquid Souveran. that combo looks great on black.

Never used Klasse or Nattys myself, so i dont know the looks on them on black. PC or not, i dont know if there would be a big difference regarding the look if aplyed by PC.

DG 101 and Pinnacle LS is also on with "hand" power imo

But do Clay the car first, that makes the paint smooth and more glossy when Sealer/wax is applyed
 
I thought Pinnacle Liquid Souveran is good for light color paints and the Pinnacle paste wax is for darker colors. What other products are good for hand applying? If you think there's not much diff. with the PC/HAND why buy the PC then?:confused:
 
If the paint looks faded and you want to buff out. You need some kind of machine whether a PC or I use a Cyclo... find yourself a "true-cut" compound and the heaviest cutting pad. That is your start. Depending on how bad it is, you may need to do a couple of pads of compound... then move down to a polish with the next pad down... so on and so forth until you get to your waxes.

But as everyone else has said you do need to clay the vehicle before you do anything... if it has never been clayed before I suggest you find a medium duty clay. While your washing your car use the clay in a fwd. back motion. Never side to side. Always make the surface is lubricated as not to cause clay marks... you don't have to use the whole bar. Tear some off and roll it into a ball then the width of about 3 or 4 fingers. At first use medium pressure when you first apply the clay the the vehicle and as you get going it will become lubed and will glide easily across the car. If you ever drop the clay on the ground, throw that piece away immediately, there is no telling what you picked up off the ground and if used, might cause real bad scratches. Know alot of info, but hope it helped.
 
PC for swirl removal/cleaners etc, other products goes on by hand (U often use less product by hand).

Thats what i do, many others do apply Pinnacle LS with the PC. works great also
 
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