The art of drying a black car
- Thread starter JJH
- Start date
If your paint is super soft, you'll have a heck of a time. I have a navy blue BMW and i could dry it with cardboard and it wouldnt leave swirls, haha!
I also think that this is a good opportunity to ask - since I've got a black car, what is the safest way to do a wipe down after polishing to remove all of the oils for the last step product? Wiping down immediately after polishing reintroduces new swirls/micro scratches/marring into the paint.
I also have an black pearl TL I use deionized water as a final rinse so I don't have to touch it to dry it.
Chad @ divine details
Chad @ divine details
M
Mike Phillips
Guest
Start by maintaining a fresh coat of wax ont the paint as a barrier coating as this makes water easier to remove in the first place.
After that the simplest way it to P&P or pat and blot.
Sidekick is great for blasting water out ov nooks and crannies. In my detailing boot camp classes after people use the Sidekick the first time they want one. I love this tool. Another "must have" in my opinion.
After that the simplest way it to P&P or pat and blot.
Sidekick is great for blasting water out ov nooks and crannies. In my detailing boot camp classes after people use the Sidekick the first time they want one. I love this tool. Another "must have" in my opinion.
this is the best way.
and if you must towel dry use a buffing towel that had been dampened and wrung out along with a leaf blower.
pat dry is another option but you will usually see water streaks on black paint.
My problem with the master blaster is that on black paint the heated air can make fast work of drying little water spots before their pushed off the surface. so your just speeding up the water spotting issue. Ive asked before if there is a way to turn off the heater in the unit but got no answer.
If you dont have a master blaster than Aquawax is a must. Keeping black looking good is a full time position. Spray wax of any kind helps in-between the power polishing.
MasterBlaster ---- then use a good spray and lightly blot or wipe using several soft, thick MF towels. Removes any water, spotting, and protects as spray is lubricated.
Start by maintaining a fresh coat of wax ont the paint as a barrier coating as this makes water easier to remove in the first place.
After that the simplest way it to P&P or pat and blot.
Sidekick is great for blasting water out ov nooks and crannies. In my detailing boot camp classes after people use the Sidekick the first time they want one. I love this tool. Another "must have" in my opinion.
Will have to have a look at these one day . Thanx for the tip .
Start by maintaining a fresh coat of wax ont the paint as a barrier coating as this makes water easier to remove in the first place.
After that the simplest way it to P&P or pat and blot.
Sidekick is great for blasting water out ov nooks and crannies. In my detailing boot camp classes after people use the Sidekick the first time they want one. I love this tool. Another "must have" in my opinion.
I can use a leave blower as a substitute for the Sidekick for right now. Are you suggesting that it's necessary to put a layer of wax over top of my Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant in order to help the water sheet off better to make dying easier? I thought that was the purpose of the BFWD sealant.
What is P&P drying method? I've tried using my waffle weave towel and dragging it across the paint by its two corners but this seems to reintroduce new swirls and scratches. I take it this should be avoided?
I have a crystal black pearl 2010 civic and I just use a waffle weave. I'm switching to a leaf blower asap , still get swirls with the waffle weave