DogRescuer
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Has anyone ued this on REALLY VERY OLD tar removal and been successful? Please no arguing about its lonng term affects on CC AND paint. We are all entitled to our opinion.
Your Brief thoughts On Megs Solvent
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FUNX650
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Is this the Meguiar's solvent you're talking about:
If so...Then...(if you so desire to use it as a "REALLY VERY OLD" tar-remover:
Meguiar's Body Solvent (D130)...MUST!...allow me to emphasize that again:
MUST!! dwell on the problem areas before it does it's magic!!
NOTE:
You already know to thoroughly wipe/wash-clean the areas 'so dwelled upon'...
followed by an inspection for any possible need for any "paint-correction"...
and, of course, followed by your choice of an LSP.
That would seem to take all of the FUN out of it.
That's JMO, though.
Bob
FUNX650
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Even if that were to be true...
That doesn't mean the OP, or other folks don't already own/have some.
-Shoot I've got car-care products that's been discontinued for many a moon now...even decades.
-"Fleabay/Amazonion/Graig's-List"/etc. seem to always have some NOS of something or the other for sale all of the time.
Good question though.
Bob
Even if that were to be true...
That doesn't mean the OP, or other folks don't already own/have some.
-Shoot I've got car-care products that's been discontinued for many a moon now...even decades.
-"Fleabay/Amazonion/Graig's-List"/etc. seem to always have some NOS of something or the other for sale all of the time.
Good question though.
Bob
I'd like to get my hands on some to try it. I use a solvent made by a local company in my area and really like it.
I always like to try meguiars comparable products to the stuff my local guy makes. Everything he makes is very good, but meguiars products are generally a bit better, especially when it comes Dow to compounds & polishes.
statusdetailing
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The body solvent is one of the few products by megs that really just isn't that great.
I use dlimonene to remove most tar, grime, decal adhesive, etc.
I use dlimonene to remove most tar, grime, decal adhesive, etc.
FUNX650
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It may not be the "fastest-working" solvent (YMMV)...
However as I mentioned earlier:
Meguiar's Body Solvent (D130)...MUST!...allow me to emphasize that again:
MUST!! dwell on the problem areas before it does it's magic!!
See if your local guy's solvent contains any of the following
Meguiar's D130 chemicals/ingredients/components:
From Meguiar's D130 MSDS:
Components...........................CAS#..........%
Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon....64742-47-8....55-65
Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon....64742-48-9....35-45
Some of: Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon (CAS# 64742-47-8) synonyms:
-Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
-Dispersol
-Distillate Fuel Oils, Light
-Hydrotreated Light Petroleum Distillates
-Light Petrolium Distillate
-Low Odor Paraffinic Solvent
-Mineral spirts
-Odorless Base Oil
-Petroleum Distillates
Some of: Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon (CAS# 64742-48-9) synonyms:
-Kerosene (Low Odor)
-Synthetic aliphatic hydrocarbon (hydrotreated)
-Isopar L Solvent
-Naptha
-Hydrotreated heavy naphtha (petroleum)
-Hydrotreated light steam cracked naptha
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Doesn't it appear that D130 is, basically, just a:
"chemical-lab formulation/mixture"...of Naptha and Mineral Spirits?
Bob
DogRescuer
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Thanks you are always helpful. Is that like kerosene?
Thanks sir.It may not be the "fastest-working" solvent (YMMV)...
However as I mentioned earlier:
See if your local guy's solvent contains any of the following
Meguiar's D130 chemicals/ingredients/components:
From Meguiar's D130 MSDS:
Components...........................CAS#..........%
Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon....64742-47-8....55-65
Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon....64742-48-9....35-45
Some of: Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon (CAS# 64742-47-8) synonyms:
-Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
-Dispersol
-Distillate Fuel Oils, Light
-Hydrotreated Light Petroleum Distillates
-Light Petrolium Distillate
-Low Odor Paraffinic Solvent
-Mineral spirts
-Odorless Base Oil
-Petroleum Distillates
Some of: Isoparaffinic Hydrocarbon (CAS# 64742-48-9) synonyms:
-Kerosene (Low Odor)
-Synthetic aliphatic hydrocarbon (hydrotreated)
-Isopar L Solvent
-Naptha
-Hydrotreated heavy naphtha (petroleum)
-Hydrotreated light steam cracked naptha
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Doesn't it appear that D130 is, basically, just a:
"chemical-lab formulation/mixture"...of Naptha and Mineral Spirits?
Bob
statusdetailing
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Dlimonene is a citrus based solvent. Arguably safer and better for the environment. I stress arguably, but I definitely feel better using it compared to petroleum based products.
FUNX650
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-Although d-Limonene is very toxic to (and bioaccumulation of this substance will occur in): Aquatic-organisms/fish/mammals....
:iagree:...
That it's arguably safer and better for the environment than some of the other solvents/"cleaners"
that are made from non-renewable sources such as petrochemicals.
Speaking of non-renewable:
-Hopefully there'll be enough bees to encourage further propagation of citrus fruits well into the future,
or d-Limonene may also become a part of the non-renewable classification.
I don't think we can depend solely on parthenocarpy to meet the demands for the World's: "citrus-needs".
:dunno:
Bob
D-limonene - another solvent which is badly misunderstood! As Bob says, it is really very toxic to aquatic life. It is worse than most of the other non-polar solvents we routinely encounter. More than that, it is a skin sensitiser at low levels (anything above 1%). The big plus is it comes from a renewable source.
Megs body solvent is almost certainly a milder blend than d-limonene would be. The strength of both the major components is lower than d-limonene (d-limonene compares closely to xylene). This is the reason it takes, as Bob says, dwell time. On forums in the UK, users would interpret this as a failing and would slate the product whilst turning to faster acting products which damage plastic trims and sensitive finishes faster than you can rinse them off. But that doesn't tend to matter because the tar has dissolved - a form of madness for someone claiming to be interested in the very best for your paintwork but then again my intent is to sell to detailers, not to emulate.
The real trick with tar is to achieve what Mike discusses with abrasives, use the least aggressive product necessary to do the job. You can (and many people unwittingly do) use products rather similar to paint strippers. These are hit and run products. Megs body solvent (as example) is the opposite end and is really pretty safe. However, you need the contact time and my belief is that these products fail with most users because they drip off before that time has been achieved. There are solutions to this and products available to the detailing market - if you have a tar remover which is mild but also effective, you would think you would be onto a winner but it is hard to get that message across to those who are used to forking out $15 for a gallon of paint stripper type product.
Megs body solvent is almost certainly a milder blend than d-limonene would be. The strength of both the major components is lower than d-limonene (d-limonene compares closely to xylene). This is the reason it takes, as Bob says, dwell time. On forums in the UK, users would interpret this as a failing and would slate the product whilst turning to faster acting products which damage plastic trims and sensitive finishes faster than you can rinse them off. But that doesn't tend to matter because the tar has dissolved - a form of madness for someone claiming to be interested in the very best for your paintwork but then again my intent is to sell to detailers, not to emulate.
The real trick with tar is to achieve what Mike discusses with abrasives, use the least aggressive product necessary to do the job. You can (and many people unwittingly do) use products rather similar to paint strippers. These are hit and run products. Megs body solvent (as example) is the opposite end and is really pretty safe. However, you need the contact time and my belief is that these products fail with most users because they drip off before that time has been achieved. There are solutions to this and products available to the detailing market - if you have a tar remover which is mild but also effective, you would think you would be onto a winner but it is hard to get that message across to those who are used to forking out $15 for a gallon of paint stripper type product.
statusdetailing
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So what's the answer? What tar remover is mild yet effective and won't kill fish?
Something with the solvency along the lines of body solvent but which does not drip. Mineral spirits isn't reall all that bad a solvent from an environmental viewpoint. D-limonene is also not all that bad, the problem is that most d-limonene marketing is aimed towards products which have a few percent or less of content. When used in a tar remover, it is much much higher and therefore the risk increases.
Shtexas
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Megs body solvent is a 60% odorless kerosene 40% naphtha mix. Give or take a bit on the mix percentage.
I know that Naphtha is used by many places as a body solvent to prep the paint work. My buddy who worked at a toyota factory told me they use it before applying decals and emblems. It's also in a few prep products.
I know that Naphtha is used by many places as a body solvent to prep the paint work. My buddy who worked at a toyota factory told me they use it before applying decals and emblems. It's also in a few prep products.
FUNX650
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One should be cautious with the term naptha. It is not very specific. It would be a bit like telling someone that you like carbonated beverages and expecting them to know you mean Coke. There are many different solvents which can be described as Naptha. If you go into a shop and ask for it, you could easily come back with something totally different than you got in another shop.
statusdetailing
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Out of all the chemicals, products, tool, etc that I work with, nothing frustrates me more than finding a good, safe, environmentally friendly tar/adhesive remover.
I love the high percentage dlimonene product that I'm using. I chose it thinking I was doing the environment and myself a favor, and in end it seems as if it too isn't really the most friendly product.
If somebody could just step in a say, "Hey, I use xyz product and it works decent and is environmentally friendly," they would be doing me a huge favor.
I love the high percentage dlimonene product that I'm using. I chose it thinking I was doing the environment and myself a favor, and in end it seems as if it too isn't really the most friendly product.
If somebody could just step in a say, "Hey, I use xyz product and it works decent and is environmentally friendly," they would be doing me a huge favor.