Multi Stage Correction Explanation...?

I call it all levels of "compounding"
Any Tom, bill and Doug can "polish". But you pay professionals to compound haha

One Step Correction - Typically carried out with a medium or fine polish to remove light scratches and swirls. You want your product/pad to finish down absolutely perfectly with no signs of haze or marring. If you see haze or marring, you will need to use a less aggressive product and/or pad OR proceed with a 2-step process instead of the 1 step process.

Common Products/Pads: M205, SPF, or PF2500 + LC White Polishing Pad*.


Two Step Correction - Typically begins with a heavier cutting compound used to remove moderate to heavy swirls, scratches, water marks, etching, etc and is followed up with a finishing polish to help refine the finish and restore a brilliant, glossy finish. You will see some light haze/marring after your initial compounding step. This should be completely removed with a finishing polish/pad. If you are unable to remove the haze/marring with only 1 finishing step, you need to reduce the aggressiveness of your cutting pad and/or product or proceed with a 3+ step process.

Common Products/Pads: MF Cutting Pads w/ D300, M105 or FG400 followed by LC White or Black Foam pad with M205, PF2500, or SPF*.


3+ Step Correction (I refer to this as a "restoration") - Begins with heavy cutting/compounding and possibly spot sanding with the hopes of removing nearly every defect in the paint. This is followed up by a series of 2 or more polishing steps to further refine the finish and produce the ultimate "wow factor".

Common Products/Pads: PFW Pads or MF Cutting Pads w/ M105 or FG400, followed by Orange Light cutting pad or white polishing pad w/ M205, PF2500, or SPF and finally FF4500 with black, blue, or crimson foam pads*.

*Note: Every vehicle is different and test spots should be carried out to determine the best product/pad combination for that particular situation. The above examples may be COMPLETELY WRONG for your particular application!

I personally do not recommend more than a 2 step procedure for most daily driven vehicles as clear coat preservation is always an important factor. A 2 step process can usually produce the dramatic results that your client is after, and typically only the deepest of RIDS and swirls will remain.

Hope that helps?

-Zach

One Step Correction - Typically carried out with a medium or fine polish to remove light scratches and swirls. You want your product/pad to finish down absolutely perfectly with no signs of haze or marring. If you see haze or marring, you will need to use a less aggressive product and/or pad OR proceed with a 2-step process instead of the 1 step process.

Common Products/Pads: M205, SPF, or PF2500 + LC White Polishing Pad*.


Two Step Correction- Typically begins with a heavier cutting compound used to remove moderate to heavy swirls, scratches, water marks, etching, etc and is followed up with a finishing polish to help refine the finish and restore a brilliant, glossy finish. You will see some light haze/marring after your initial compounding step. This should be completely removed with a finishing polish/pad. If you are unable to remove the haze/marring with only 1 finishing step, you need to reduce the aggressiveness of your cutting pad and/or product or proceed with a 3+ step process.

Common Products/Pads: MF Cutting Pads w/ D300, M105 or FG400 followed by LC White or Black Foam pad with M205, PF2500, or SPF*.


Three+ Step Correction (I refer to this as a "restoration") - Begins with heavy cutting/compounding and possibly spot sanding with the hopes of removing nearly every defect in the paint. This is followed up by a series of 2 or more polishing steps to further refine the finish and produce the ultimate "wow factor".

Common Products/Pads: PFW Pads or MF Cutting Pads w/ M105 or FG400, followed by Orange Light cutting pad or white polishing pad w/ M205, PF2500, or SPF and finally FF4500 with black, blue, or crimson foam pads*.

*Note: Every vehicle is different and test spots should be carried out to determine the best product/pad combination for that particular situation. The above examples may be COMPLETELY WRONG for your particular application!

I personally do not recommend more than a 2 step procedure for most daily driven vehicles as clear coat preservation is always an important factor. A 2 step process can usually produce the dramatic results that your client is after, and typically only the deepest of RIDS and swirls will remain.

What would be equivalent in the Menzerna line to 3M Rubbing compound to remove sanding marks on repaints?

View attachment 21169

^M105 did not have enough cut from my experience to remove these sanding marks. So I switched to 3M rubbing compound.

But would like to try a Meguiars line even Menzerna

For Meguiars it's M101 or M100?

Reveddie25...why did you copy zmcgovern45's post and post as your own????

hernandez.art13 said:

What would be equivalent in the Menzerna line to 3M Rubbing compound to remove sanding marks on repaints?

View attachment 21169

^M105 did not have enough cut from my experience to remove these sanding marks. So I switched to 3M rubbing compound.

But would like to try a Meguiars line even Menzerna

For Meguiars it's M101 or M100?

Click to expand...

What grit sand paper were you using?

IME M105 can easily remove 2000 grit sanding marks when paired with a MF cutting pad. I have never tried removing anything heavier than 2000 grit.


M100, M105 and Menzerna FG400 all advertise the ability to remove 1200 grit sanding marks.

M101 just says "Ultra-fast & reliable sanding mark removal."

NickZ28 said:

Reveddie25...why did you copy zmcgovern45's post and post as your own????

Click to expand...

'cause I'm special :dunno:

and how would you guys compare PF2500 to M205?

Will be getting one or the other

I went all the way up to 3000.

Was just working body shop style. (Fast) lol

hernandez.art13 said:

and how would you guys compare PF2500 to M205?

Will be getting one or the other

Click to expand...

PF2500 has more cut than M205 - both finish down very well........ this has little/nothing to do with the original question that was posted in this thread so let's keep it on topic.

hernandez.art13 said:

I went all the way up to 3000.

Was just working body shop style. (Fast) lol

Click to expand...

^So how about working the proper way - the "detailing style"... makes a lot more sense don't you think?

Didn't want to start another thread. But ok will do

hernandez.art13 said:

Didn't want to start another thread. But ok will do

Click to expand...

LOL - kinda funny from the person who has started 76 threads in 4 months... but yeah, those questions have been answered in many other threads, so you can find all the info you need in existing threads.

Thank you for answering the steps for me.

zmcgovern45 said:

LOL - kinda funny from the person who has started 76 threads in 4 months... but yeah, those questions have been answered in many other threads, so you can find all the info you need in existing threads.

Click to expand...

A little harsh?

zmcgovern45 said:

3+ Step Correction (I refer to this as a "restoration") - Begins with heavy cutting/compounding and possibly spot sanding with the hopes of removing nearly every defect in the paint. This is followed up by a series of 2 or more polishing steps to further refine the finish and produce the ultimate "wow factor".

Common Products/Pads: PFW Pads or MF Cutting Pads w/ M105 or FG400, followed by Orange Light cutting pad or white polishing pad w/ M205, PF2500, or SPF and finally FF4500 with black, blue, or crimson foam pads*.

Click to expand...

does a 2 step polish mean using the same polish but using a pad with some cut then finishing with a pad with no cut? or using 2 different polishes, a med polish followed by a finishing polish?

04Golf said:

does a 2 step polish mean using the same polish but using a pad with some cut then finishing with a pad with no cut? or using 2 different polishes, a med polish followed by a finishing polish?

Click to expand...

There are no set rules... those were just my interpretation of my services that I offer.

For a 2 stage correction, I typically use a medium to heavy cutting compound or polish and follow up with a medium to fine finishing polish.

Again... it all depends on the paint you are working on.

With soft paint, like Porsche Black paint, you can get a good deal of cut with a black finishing pad and M205 (a finishing polish) and you will need to follow it up with something even finer like FF4500 on a crimson ultra fine finishing pad.

On harder paint, you can often get away with doing a one-stage correction using a cutting compound and a polishing or light cutting pad since it is harder to leave behind marring.

This is why test spots are ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY before you begin correcting an entire vehicle.

-Zach

Thanks zmcgovern for clearing things up for me rops:

Information post. Thanks!