Ceriglass Problem - What's the secret?

zmcgovern45

zmcgovern45

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So after seeing some success with the Ceriglass Polish, I decided I would give it a shot since I purchased it a while ago and still have not tried it out.

My motivation:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-glass-correction-scratch-removal-carpro.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html


Here is what I was trying to correct - these were scratches from rolling the window up and down and up and down... you know.
F6040C0B-49DE-4063-A94D-124E4A393BB4-3470-0000015202376C28_zps58a49d70.jpg



What I was using:
- Machine: PC7424XP
- Polish: Ceriglass
- Pad: LC 5" Glass Pad
- Water to keep polish wet

The window was first cleaned with Meg's glass cleaner, and then clayed with Optimum Opti-Eraser (Medium). Next, I applied a rather generous amount of polish to the pad and slowly spread it onto 1/2 of the window (maybe a 1.5' x 1.5' area). I began working at a speed of 5, and used a stopwatch on my phone to monitor the time. I polished for 5 minutes and then decided to check my results... Let's just say I did not make any progress. In fact, I made it MUCH WORSE.

B4D50238-6344-4F58-858F-22012E1BF144-3470-00000151FC5FB988_zpsd12801a4.jpg


You can see the terrible haze/marring and larger pigtail type defects left behind. They were everywhere... the picture doesn't do it justice. At this point, I figured I should contact Corey at CarPro-US for some helpful hints before I did anymore damage. He recommended following up with a yellow foam cutting pad with the Ceriglass polish to try to remove the damage.

After 10 minutes of polishing with the Rupes, this yielded moderate results. Only the heavier pigtails remained, but it seemed like it would take a very long time to get them out, so I gave up for the night. I washed the car and went to bed feeling defeated... I'll mess with it another time.


I guess what I want to know is...

- Was this caused by the use of the LC Glass pad instead of the CarPro glass pads?

- Did I simply need to work the product for a much longer time to allow the abrasives to break down?

- Any other tips/info that will help me to remedy this situation when I decide to go at it again?


Overall, it didn't turn out "that bad", but based on Swanic's success, there is TONS of room for improvement. Seeing as how he also had trouble when he used the LC Glass Pads, I may switch to the carpro pads for future attempts to see if I can imitate his awesome results.

Anyways, just thought I would share my first time results since glass polishing is totally new to me and based on the answers I received from other people that I contacted last night, I am not the only one to have this exact issue.

Thanks!

-Zach
 
It's your pads. Try the carpro glass pads. They finish out great.
 
Sorry for quoting that entire post.. Didn't mean to do that!
 
KillaCam said:
It's your pads. Try the carpro glass pads. They finish out great.
Click to expand...

^ This....I had the exact same issue with the LC pads. I'm not sure why, but the Carpro pads are the key!

I just sent my pads to a buddy, or I would send mine to you to try.
 
There is an entire thread regarding glass polishing on the forum, do a search it contains excellent information.

Just to recap very quickly:

- Correcting glass takes hours, not minutes
- Make sure to protect the car because you will have glass dust all over when you are done
- Don't give up
- Use glass pads if you can, they are designed for this task, foam pads are not
 
KillaCam said:
It's your pads. Try the carpro glass pads. They finish out great.
Click to expand...

Iron400 said:
^ This....I had the exact same issue with the LC pads. I'm not sure why, but the Carpro pads are the key!

I just sent my pads to a buddy, or I would send mine to you to try.
Click to expand...
^Thanks guys... I'll order a CarPro pad for future testing.

Calendyr said:
There is an entire thread regarding glass polishing on the forum, do a search it contains excellent information.

Just to recap very quickly:

- Correcting glass takes hours, not minutes
- Make sure to protect the car because you will have glass dust all over when you are done
- Don't give up
- Use glass pads if you can, they are designed for this task, foam pads are not
Click to expand...
^Thanks! Link to the thread (besides the two that I had already posted)? I did use glass pads - they are what caused the damage. According to the other responses, I should be using the CarPro pad instead of the LC pad.
 
The raylon pads and cerigalss is a match made for each other. You will yeild much greater results with those pads.
 
Rayon pads. Only good glass polishing pad on the market IMO.
 
Besides the proper pairing of the "glass-pads" with a DA...

-All auto-glass is considered "safety glass" (the way it breaks/'shatters')...
But I've noticed a difference when polishing on a windshield (laminated glass),
and other auto-glass (tempered).

-Make sure your water is as pure as possible.
zmcgovern45 said:
What I was using:
-Water to keep polish wet
Click to expand...
zmcgovern45 said:
I figured I should contact Corey at CarPro-US for some helpful hints before I did anymore damage.
Click to expand...

^^^Corey will definitely offer sound advice.^^^ :props:

Hope this project turns out alright for you!


:)

Bob
 
You are wasting your time trying to use a PC to correct glass. I have done several jobs where heavy correction of glass was needed. Some of the jobs involved windshields and side glass. On a few occasions I polished glass foglights.

I hope you have a rotary, because with a DA it will take you forever (maybe not even be possible) unless you are dealing with VERY light defects.

Take the ceriglass, take a GG 3" glass polishing pad and use it on at least 1700 rpm good pressure and slow arm speed. You may need to do a section a few times, several passes each time, giving it plenty of time to cool down in between.

I tried the LC cutting discs and felt they are only needed in extreme situations like with the Mercedes anti shatter glass used on foglights. On regular glass, you can get away with just the polishing pads. But using a PC is almost as pointless as trying to do it by hand.
 
Kaban said:
You are wasting your time trying to use a PC to correct glass. I have done several jobs where heavy correction of glass was needed. Some of the jobs involved windshields and side glass. On a few occasions I polished glass foglights.

I hope you have a rotary, because with a DA it will take you forever (maybe not even be possible) unless you are dealing with VERY light defects.

Take the ceriglass, take a GG 3" glass polishing pad and use it on at least 1700 rpm good pressure and slow arm speed. You may need to do a section a few times, several passes each time, giving it plenty of time to cool down in between.

I tried the LC cutting discs and felt they are only needed in extreme situations like with the Mercedes anti shatter glass used on foglights. On regular glass, you can get away with just the polishing pads. But using a PC is almost as pointless as trying to do it by hand.
Click to expand...

Seems several people would disagree based on their results with DA machines and glass polishing, but thanks for your input!
 
Polishing glass is such a painfully time consuming process. Typically a full windshield can take an entire day. At most I just use PA Cristal or Ceriglass to get rid of heavy water spots and touchless car wash damage with a cyan hydro pad. In my opinion, it's too much work, but if you are willing to, go for it!

A Rotary makes life so much easier, but as already said, keep misting the polishing surface. Ceriglass dries fast and work in small areas.

Best of luck to you!
 
The secret is........


You need to use CARPRO Rayon GLASS Pads and keep the polish wet.

LC pads are just bad. Sorry, they jacked up my glass and many others. the CarPro pads are different. They are "idiot proof".

My experience is:

- you don't need a rotary. A DA works fine.
 
swanicyouth said:
The secret is........


You need to use CARPRO Rayon GLASS Pads and keep the polish wet.

LC pads are just bad. Sorry, they jacked up my glass and many others. the CarPro pads are different. They are "idiot proof".
Click to expand...

I used my LC pads once (rotary) with the now defunct Diamondite restorer (which seems similar to CeriGlass). I don't remember seeing that kind of hazing, but I also didn't have time to completely fix the glass...unless I was hazing it up as I was going along. Anyway, my problem with the LC pads is they were like rocks and difficult to get to conform to the curve of the windshield...I notice the GG glass pads are much more flexible--do you guys consider them to be comparable to the CarPro pads?
 
Also, this is no real over or under working with the CarPro pads. Your much more experienced than me with a polisher, I've seen your work, so I know you'll do fine. Its really pretty simple.

They will also fix the damage by the LC pads.

Just get the CarPro pads.


Setec Astronomy said:
I used my LC pads once (rotary) with the now defunct Diamondite restorer (which seems similar to CeriGlass). I don't remember seeing that kind of hazing, but I also didn't have time to completely fix the glass...unless I was hazing it up as I was going along. Anyway, my problem with the LC pads is they were like rocks and difficult to get to conform to the curve of the windshield...I notice the GG glass pads are much more flexible--do you guys consider them to be comparable to the CarPro pads?
Click to expand...

I never used GG pads, so dunno.
 
swanicyouth said:
Also, this is no real over or under working with the CarPro pads. Your much more experienced than me with a polisher, I've seen your work, so I know you'll do fine. Its really pretty simple.

They will also fix the damage by the LC pads.

Just get the CarPro pads.
Click to expand...

Roger that! Thanks!
 
Had created swirls in my windshield using the LC glass pad with my GG DA, but when I used the GG Glass Pads with Ceriglass and the GG DA to fix the problem this combination made a lot of difference. I'm guessing the swirls were not that deep on my windshield.
 
Zach,

As others have stated the LC glass pads are the problem.

Here's a link to guide a made a while back that demonstrates the same issues you are having and how to fix it. One thing I will say is that it is possible to remove these types of defects with a DA and the CarPro glass pads + CeriGlass... it will just take a bit longer compared to a rotary.

Rotary Instructions:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/52179-autowerx-ceriglass-guide.html

DA Instructions:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/52179-autowerx-ceriglass-guide-3.html

I hope this helps! :props:
 
So just to recap, the LC glass pads are caca, the CarPro glass pads are great, and the Griot's glass pads are...as good as the CarPro? Not as good as the CarPro but better than the LC? The Griot's are usable and will not damage as the LC pads will?

I have all three brands, I just want to make sure which I am throwing out next trip down to the basement. (just because that sounds confusing I have different sizes, etc.)
 
To the guys saying you don't need a rotary, I will agree and disagree with you.

Yes, maybe you can get away with a PC but it will take you at least double or triple the time to get out serious defects. Secondly, not all glass is the same. Like I said some glass just seems to be a hell of alot harder than other glass and that is going to vary from car to car. Unless you have polished glass surfaces from every manufacturer, you cannot say you don't NEED a rotary.

I've tried the DA route and while it may be doable if you have all the time in the world, if you do this for a living and are looking for a SANE method that will not require you to spend hours on a windshield, than YES you will want to use the rotary. You can't even argue that. Rotary is just faster and seems like the tool to use.
 
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