1969 Firebird - Maroon

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waderw24

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Hi folks - I'm getting ready to take a shot at polishing up a 1969 Firebird that has been repainted and wanted to see if I could get some advice.

I am a hobbyist who simply enjoys keeping my cars clean therefore I have a limited arsenal on compounds/polishes, etc. but here's my game plan.

Arsenal
  • PC 7424XP
  • LC Hydro-Tech Foam Pads (Blue, Orange, Red)
  • LC CCS Pads (White, Orange, Red)
  • Menzerna FG400
  • Menzerna SF4500
  • Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
  • P21S Paintwork Cleanser
  • Meguiars Ultimate Sealant
  • Chem Guys V7

Proposed Process (Car has never been polished)
  1. Standard Wash & Towel Dry (no two bucket since polishing)
  2. Iron-X/Rinse
  3. ReWash & Dry
  4. Clay - NanoskinWash Mitt, Fine
  5. Tape off high spots, trim, etc.
  6. Test Spot (expecting to end up using FG400 & P21S)
  7. Polish Car with whichever combo works best
  8. Seal - WGDGPS 3.0 (1 coat due to time)

Questions
  • Since I have the Nanoskin Wash Mitt, can I combine the standard wash and clay steps using the Nanoskin or should I keep them separate?
  • Any suggestions on my process, recommendations. etc for working with a car of this age?

This will be my first time working with a car this old AND IT IS MY BOSS' WIFE'S CAR....so as you can imagine there is no room for error.:dblthumb2:

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
QUOTE=waderw24;954681]Anyone??[/QUOTE]

Sorry I missed your post... I think I was in bed already... :D



waderw24 said:
Questions
  • Since I have the Nanoskin Wash Mitt, can I combine the standard wash and clay steps using the Nanoskin or should I keep them separate?
Click to expand...

Wash and rinse car thoroughly and then use Nano Skin Wash Mitt.

You don't want to rub LOOSE DIRT over the paitn with the rubberize face of the Nanoskin Wash Mitt, this could inflict more swirls and scratches.

So,

Standard Wash & Towel Dry (no two bucket since polishing)
Iron-X/Rinse
ReWash AND RINSE THOROUGHLY

THEN NanoskinWash Mitt, Fine

Then rinse again, dry car and you're ready to tape-off.


:)
 
waderw24 said:
This will be my first time working with a car this old AND IT IS MY BOSS' WIFE'S CAR....so as you can imagine there is no room for error.


Thanks in advance for your help!
Click to expand...


Take your time dialing in your test spot and then do your best work when doing the correction step. It is this step that makes the most difference as it relates to the final results.

Take some good before and after pictures.


Cool car...


:xyxthumbs:
 
My Mother has a 1967 Firebird and it can get tricky. Take your time, and make sure you tape off ALL of the emblems and be carefull with them.
 
mswerb said:
make sure you tape off ALL of the emblems and be careful with them.
Click to expand...


Maybe even check to see if you can carefully remove them.

My standard rule of thumb is to ask the owner to remove any emblems or script that's easy to remove. If it's hard to remove or hasn't been removed for a long time then tape around them.


In the below thread you can see where the,

Corvette Sting Ray on the front of the car and on the back of the car has been taped off as well as the chrome Corvette Crossed Racing Flags on the hood as one of my past classes learns how to use a rotary buffer on a 1966 Corvete..

How to use a Rotary Buffer


TrainingVette029.jpg


TrainingVette060.jpg




Ounce of prevention and all that good stuff...



:)
 
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