Sanding a scratch out

If your nail catches on the scratch, it's passed the clear. I can't give any sanding suggesting.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2

Why don't you post some pictures I am sure that would help everyone to give more information.
Sanding on a factory clear coat can be really risky especially if this is your first time doing it. You need to get a feel for how much you can sand on the clear before burning through it.
Have you tried hitting it with your DA and the M105 you said that you have?
If you still want to try and wet sand that scratch out you should stop by a junkyard and buy a hood or whatever is cheap and practice on that. Good Luck

Well the above information is a good way to gauge the scratch. Nail test. Even if it does catch, you can still help diminish it by sanding. If you want to you can get all fancy and fill it with touch up paint and then sand; almost perfect then.

As far as sanding, I like the Megs unigrit paper for blocking and 3M for machine.

I would recommend picking up a wrecker panel or go to a body shop and get something from the junk pile (body shops are great for getting free stuff!). Then just get the different sand papers and sand until you punch thru the clear (good way to learn what it takes)

I would recommend getting some 1500, 2500 and 3000 paper. Slowly work with it on the junk panel and learn it. When you screw it up on your car, it's a respray. For your DA get an MF cutting pad and use 105 with it.

Also it is paramount you soak it in water for at least 15-20 mins before using! If you do it dry, you will be placing a lot of RIDS in the paint.

Post some pics, best of luck.

It's like others have said if your fingernail catches it might be through the clear but you can make it look way better if you are careful because you are rounding off the edges of the scratch. 3M papers are ok, they can at times leave sanding marks that are hard to get out but will work. I use a foam block that you can get at any auto paint supply store. I would only use 2500 and then 3000. If you start with 1500 you may go to deep to fast. If you are going to sand do it slowly and be very patient. Also you don't need to sand a huge spot around the scratch, I see this all the time. Focus on the scratch, I try to go back and forth like this up down up down up down slightly at a angle then check your work. You don't need to sand and sand and sand. By wiping and allowing where you are sanding to dry that is how you check. Look to see if it is gone and if you can still see it in the sanded area you can repeat the sanding. Once you see a significant difference in the scratch disappearance move to the next grit higher. If you can't get your hands on any 3000 grit, Meguiars 105 should take out 2500 sanding marks with no problem.
Anyway good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Always remember...Sand with soapy water. Dish detergent works fine.

Using a jewelers loupe with 10X or higher magnification is better than just dragging your nail across it. Usually if you think it's deep it is and should be filled prior to sanding.

MJT said:

Thanks for your comments guys! Have decided to get an old junk panel to practice wet sanding. There are non branded wet sanding papers on eBay at decent prices. Would I be in trouble if I got one instead of the Meguires or 3M papers? What actually is the difference in quality?

Secondly would you say 1000 grit is to coarse for clear coat? Whats the lowest you would use?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

This is not the tiem to cheap out. ONLY buy reputable brand name sanding papers 3M, Megs, Norton and make sure its for automotive sanding.

There is a huge difference in less quality sandpapers!

Meguairs 3000 works great and is easy to get out