Duragloss 101 on its own?

I see no problem using DG #101 on its own and no worries about not having a machine. Although I do own the Griot's pair I have never touched my 2011 CR-Z with either one of them. If you don't have DG #601, get some and add it to the mix next time. Its been said DG #101 is for "older" finishes but I see NO problems using it on something newer. I have many DG products and if you've got any other questions, feel free to ask away, myself and other DG fans will chime in.

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Never tried 101 but I can tell you I did the Wife's Toyota 7 months ago with 601/501 and it is still going strong with weekly washes of 901 and aqua wax drying or 932 no rinse. Just took some pictures this morning and will post later with pictures of Daughters 601/105 10 month longevity.

Dave

supernaut said:

Thanks a lot. So the deciding question is whether I should ask him to choose 101, 111 or 105 considering he wants to use just one product? 101 is the only one of the three that can clean the paint, right? 501 is not an option for him.

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501 has great cleaning ability plus UV protectant

Dave

Duragloss 101 description

Duragloss PC (Polish & Cleaner) contains synthetic polymers, which form a protective coating on the surface of painted vehicles. Durable to both acid and alkaline washes. Can be applied in the sun or shade to the entire vehicle before removing easily for a "wet look" shine and protective coating.
Recommended for all vehicles 1 year or older which may require additional cleaning properties to remove mild oxidation and light surface scratches.
Step Saver Tip - Blend 4 parts #101 to 1 part 601, Polish Bonding Agent for added durability and gloss. Accelerates the curing process for instant bonding. Apply within 2 hours after mixing for maximum results.


Reading this I would assume swirls would be removed. I would not want to do it by hand tho.


Dave

supernaut said:

Thanks a lot. So the deciding question is whether I should ask him to choose 101, 111 or 105 considering he wants to use just one product? 101 is the only one of the three that can clean the paint, right? 501 is not an option for him.

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There has always been allot of discussion about which one has more cleaning ability. Dr Bailey of DG rates them like this:

111 = pure sealant rated 1 on cleaning ability
101 = rated about 4-5 on cleaning ability
105 = rated about 9-10 on cleaning ability

He also stated he rates them all about equal on durability.

BTW--I don't believe any of them will remove swirls as they are just chemical cleaning agents.

501 from the Marine Line would still be the best, IMO.

I had a billet silver Honda Ridgeline and for several years used only Duragloss products with the exception of the paint cleaner (P21S Paintwork Cleanser). I have a Griot 6" that was much better and faster than the hand application I used at first and I would highly recommend an electric polisher of some kind. I believe the new "Squeaky Clean" paint cleaner by Duragloss would be comparable to the P21S in case you want to stick with Duragloss all the way. If you don't do a correction or abrasive polish job the paint should at the very least be cleaned with a chemical cleaner.

After washing the Honda and applying the P21S, I mixed four drops of 601 to one drop of 105 (two applications a day apart). I say "drops" because I have combined the bonding agent and sealants in different ways. First, I mixed it to a 4:1ratio in a small bottle and applied it that way. The second method was putting four dime size drops of 105 around the outside of the foam pad and one dime size drop of 601 in the center of the pad. As the machine spun on the paint all was mixed perfectly and there was no difference in looks or durability between the two ways of applying the products.

This drop method saves on product too because you use only what is needed rather than guessing on a quantity and mixing it together in a bottle. If you mix too much you are out of luck as the shelf life of this combo is measured in only a few days - at most.

I also tried the 111 sealant and it has a more candy apple look shine to it but also looks great on silver. Both 105 or 111 will last a long time and I like to top either of them with Collinite 845 - but why I am not really sure. After a wash and rinse (but before drying) I like to blow off excess water with a leaf blower and then use AquaWax as a drying aid (great on glass too). I use the blower because I do not think you should water down a drying aid "topper" too much by applying it on a soaking wet car. Recently I have been using the inexpensive Lucas Slick Mist as a drying aid with equal success and unlike AquaWax, it is a product that can be found locally almost everywhere. As a QD, nothing beats the Duragloss Fast and Easy Shine.

Duragloss has something for everyone and when you compare bang for the buck you can't beat them.

Hey Short, good info here for sure but DG's AW is found locally, most CarQuests carry it, about $7.69 from what I remember, a small price to pay for such an awesome product!

DG and machine use were brought up earlier and ofcoarse its ok to do this but remember, a little goes a long way and even turning your machine down to say 4, it will apply it and just about remove it at the same time, something to keep in mind. I used my GG 6" and some DG #501/601 on a car this past summer, corrected to about 85-90% using the orange GG polishing pad. I decided to do this to see what I could achieve and I was pretty happy with the results, the paint on the car (Gold Rush edition Scion xB) was in pretty decent shape, so I decided against using a designated polish/compound.

I don't think you can go wrong with either DG #101 or #501, both are great products with #501 getting a bit more attention, #101 seems to be a forgotten gem which makes it kinda cool!

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Believe it or not Klasse, I have not tried either 101 or 501. They do seem to get a lot of press here, at least the 501 Marine Polish does, and I know from the feedback and reviews they are great. But I have been happy with 111 and 105 primarily because my suv is only a year and a half old and always kept inside (a true garage queen). That is why so far I've never needed anything more in terms of a paint cleaner. And I agree, the Griot setting of 4 will make the sealants amost transparant if you are not careful. You do need to see a little something to buff off because they are not coatings, but darn close to it.

Where I live in Texas there are a few Carquest stores and some NAPA stores but they are few and far between. The "local" NAPA store carries no Duragloss products at all. You need to try Slick Mist. I am not saying it is better than AquaWax but it is darn good. You can get it for about $8.50 a 24oz. bottle almost any place, including WalMart.

Hey Short, your use of 105 and 111 is fine, you get some cleaning from 105 and then 12 hrs later hitting it with the 111 is the ticket. You might wanna get some #601 though, makes the products that much better!

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Yep, I agree and I always use 601 with any Duragloss sealant. Everyone says it works better that way even if it means buying two different products and taking an extra step. Mixing the sealant and bonding agent together, however, is no big deal, either by the mixing bottle method or placing drops on the pad.

Here is a product made by DP that combines sealant and bonding agent in one - DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer. I wish Duragloss would do that. In fact, DP claims the bonding agent contained in this sealant cleans so well that a separate paint cleaner (like the P21S Cleanser I use or "Squeaky Clean") is not needed at all. Of course they can claim things all they want and the proof is in the pudding but I have a bottle of DP and will try it out the next time I apply a sealant to my car.

If this DP sealant performs and looks as good as Duragloss it will save me time and work. The cost between the Duragloss combo and the DP all in one sealant is about the same and if I really do not need a paint cleaner with the DP that will be additonal savings and less work. Also, the DP Poli-coat matches Duragloss' 105 claim of one year protection and is double the claimed protection of 111. So many things to try but in the end all must be compared to Duragloss in terms of value and performance.

Let us know how the DP sealant works out.

Dave

I picked up the quart size of DP paint sealant out of curosity and used it once so far, application is easy, as is removal and the leaves the paint looking wet! Another great product that doesn't get all too hyped but those in the know, know!!

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I am anxious to try the DP sealant because it is suppose to clean and seal, like an AIO and as I said before, I might save my usual P21S Paintwork Cleanser step. Plus, the bonding agent is built in unlike Duragloss that has to be bought separatly and then mixed with the sealant. Klasse act, since you used it and like it, how would you compare it to the Duragloss combo?

Shortspark said:

I am anxious to try the DP sealant because it is suppose to clean and seal, like an AIO and as I said before, I might save my usual P21S Paintwork Cleanser step. Plus, the bonding agent is built in unlike Duragloss that has to be bought separatly and then mixed with the sealant. Klasse act, since you used it and like it, how would you compare it to the Duragloss combo?

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Interesting with DP. With Zaino ZFX or DG 601 the sealant gels in the bottle after a few hours so you see exactly how and if it works and is only at it's full potential before gelling. DP must have a different reaction ?.

Dave

Shortspark said:

I am anxious to try the DP sealant because it is suppose to clean and seal, like an AIO and as I said before, I might save my usual P21S Paintwork Cleanser step. Plus, the bonding agent is built in unlike Duragloss that has to be bought separatly and then mixed with the sealant. Klasse act, since you used it and like it, how would you compare it to the Duragloss combo?

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Well Short I've used all the DG combo's more than the DP Poly Seal, so its a bit unfair to say really but when I was done with the one coat of Poly Seal from DP I thought the shine was great, easy on and easy off and I apply all of my products to the entire car and then remove....except KSG, that I do a panel at a time because you have due to its make up and its made to do so.

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Thanks, I hope to try the DP after a full detail sometime in January.

Shortspark said:

Thanks, I hope to try the DP after a full detail sometime in January.

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The DP Poly Seal or DPPC is going to be a great LSP, either way you go. DP and DG are from the same tree IMO, Collinite too but with Collinite its the tree trunk because its been around longer!

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