All LSP's shot on lower panels; user error?

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MattyL

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Carried out my winter prep about a month ago. Put 6 different LSP's on various panels to compare with each other: collinite 915, Klasse Sealant Glaze, Duragloss 601/501 followed by 601/105, and DG 601/501 followed by 601/111, and BFWD. All panels were clayed and were prepped with paint cleanser, even the DG 501 panels!

Fast forward to yesterday; first wash since then bc of the cold weather we've been having. It has snowed 3 times in this span, which required road salt to be spread each time.

Problem is, the lower portions of every panel look like they're toast; water BARELY sheeting after cleaning.

So am I to believe the only way to protect against road salt is with a coating such as Opti-Coat? Was it something in my prep? I'm very disappointed given it has been only one month and just 3 road saltings, and these are supposed to be among the most protective products on the market besides a coating. :(
 
Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.
 
I wouldn't necessarily say they are all shot, but seriously deteriorated. The salt products they use on roads these days is just plain NASTY!! They will take their toll on any LSP wax or sealant. The fact that they have been on there a month through 3 different salting sessions, your results are not surprising to me. During winter months you have to get that salt off as quickly as possible, don't let it dwell. I use a sealant with a wax over and reapply the wax every couple weeks. I have used different brands over the years with similar results. This year I have BF on my truck, and a combination of Hi-Temp and BF on the car. I've never used OC. Bottom line, winter months and nasty salt products result in limited durability with any product.
 
About a month ago I applied Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal to my truck in preparation of a NW Pennsylvania trip. It snowed, sleeted or rained the whole time! After that 4 day voyage there was a significant degradation of the LSP. I found it interesting since I don't deal with that kind of road treatment on a regular basis. When and IF it snows on the Delmarva Peninsula the state and local authorities like to throw a bunch of sand on the roads.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.
Click to expand...

Clayed all the panels, can't remember if I mentioned that. I just had the expectation that these "protective heavyweights" would hold for at least a month, I mean c'mon. :dunno: Wish I would have know this before I purchased all these different LSP's. The hype machine caught hold of me and tagged me hook,line, and sinker, wow!

Looks like a coating is in order for next year, if all I have to do is Iron-X it and maybe a clay.

bsmith0404 said:
I wouldn't necessarily say they are all shot, but seriously deteriorated. The salt products they use on roads these days is just plain NASTY!! They will take their toll on any LSP wax or sealant. The fact that they have been on there a month through 3 different salting sessions, your results are not surprising to me. During winter months you have to get that salt off as quickly as possible, don't let it dwell. I use a sealant with a wax over and reapply the wax every couple weeks. I have used different brands over the years with similar results. This year I have BF on my truck, and a combination of Hi-Temp and BF on the car. I've never used OC. Bottom line, winter months and nasty salt products result in limited durability with any product.
Click to expand...

You're not kidding man. I was floored after realizing how corrosive this stuff is. And to do this after only 3 saltings? I put another coat of everything on the car yesterday and let it sit in the garage overnight, so maybe these new layers will make a difference. Just bought a tin of 1000p and picked up the Zaino system (ZAIO, Z5, ZFX) in a trade; now I regret both acquisitions, especially after finding out about Zaino's water-etching issues only AFTER I agreed to the trade.

The trials and tribulations of a noob!
 
What paint cleanser did you use prior to applying all these different LSPs?
What method and products did you use on your recent wash ?
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Remember, beading and sheeting can be effected by contamination.

Next time the car is clean, check those areas with the baggie test to determine if there are bonded surface contaminates that may be effecting the hydrophobic properties of the LSP.

Even coatings can experience this issue, but typically a quick iron x treatment and clay (if needed) will restore a coatings ability to sheet.
Click to expand...

Can you actually clay bar after the Coating has already been applied? Feed back please. :buffing:
 
I personally feel that apart from true coatings like OP and Finest....... everything is Hype.

This includes wgdgps

845 is for looks imo. It looks great even on white.
 
geekdout said:
What paint cleanser did you use prior to applying all these different LSPs?
What method and products did you use on your recent wash ?
Click to expand...
Wash,clayed, then:
KAIO underneath KSG
P21s Cleanser underneath the Collinite & BFWD
501/601 Underneath 601/105 601/111.

Are you seeing opposite results from what I am with any of these LSP's?

cleanmycorolla said:
of course, clay won't remove a coating:dblthumb2:
Click to expand...
Now THAT is cool. I have the Optimum Opti-Eraser & as long as it doesn't scratch the paint, I could decontaminate the car w/the eraser after every wash & keep it looking and feeling phenomenal. I wonder if "claying" that often with the Opti-Eraser would diminish the coating in any way though, given such a frequent amount of contact w/the paint?
 
goodinblack said:
I personally feel that apart from true coatings like OP and Finest....... everything is Hype.

This includes wgdgps

845 is for looks imo. It looks great even on white.
Click to expand...

I hear you man. Before Saturday's revelations, I was keen on purchasing/trading for products already known for outstanding protection, that could be layered within an hour or two b/w coats so that I could put down multiple layers in one day: polycharged Klasse/WGDGPS/Sonax Nano LiquidWax; ZFX'd Zaino, Jeffs Werkstat. Still think maybe, just maybe, these might give me the protection against the winter elements i'm looking for if multiple layers are applied, seeing though I was only able to lay down one coat of each LSP I used a month ago.

At that point though, with all the time and energy expended laying down multiple coats, wouldn't it be easier to just bite the bullet and purchase a coating? I think so. A coating is now on the radar for me.
 
I experience the same thing:

Salt + snow + wax = toast on lower panels.

I reapply wax each month and use Sonax Brilliant Shine QD between washes which beads like crazy.
 
How about a few coats of sealant AND if ur still not happy then move up to a coating? I think a sealant layered on itself every month for 3 months and u will be happy. KSG is KEwL
 
MattyL said:
Carried out my winter prep about a month ago. Put 6 different LSP's on various panels to compare with each other: collinite 915, Klasse Sealant Glaze, Duragloss 601/501 followed by 601/105, and DG 601/501 followed by 601/111, and BFWD. All panels were clayed and were prepped with paint cleanser, even the DG 501 panels!

Fast forward to yesterday; first wash since then bc of the cold weather we've been having. It has snowed 3 times in this span, which required road salt to be spread each time.

Problem is, the lower portions of every panel look like they're toast; water BARELY sheeting after cleaning.

So am I to believe the only way to protect against road salt is with a coating such as Opti-Coat? Was it something in my prep? I'm very disappointed given it has been only one month and just 3 road saltings, and these are supposed to be among the most protective products on the market besides a coating. :(
Click to expand...

See your problem is was you didn't get the salt off of your LSP'S. I know this is an old thread but it is a relevant problem. What can we use to remove road salts without removing the LSP? I used ps21 total auto wash at 10/1 last week and that seemed to work. What else is out there?
 
stilltipping3 said:
How about a few coats of sealant AND if ur still not happy then move up to a coating? I think a sealant layered on itself every month for 3 months and u will be happy. KSG is KEwL
Click to expand...

No you would just be sealing in all the road salt and contamination
 
MattyL said:
Clayed all the panels, can't remember if I mentioned that. I just had the expectation that these "protective heavyweights" would hold for at least a month, I mean c'mon. :dunno: Wish I would have know this before I purchased all these different LSP's. The hype machine caught hold of me and tagged me hook,line, and sinker, wow!

Looks like a coating is in order for next year, if all I have to do is Iron-X it and maybe a clay.



You're not kidding man. I was floored after realizing how corrosive this stuff is. And to do this after only 3 saltings? I put another coat of everything on the car yesterday and let it sit in the garage overnight, so maybe these new layers will make a difference. Just bought a tin of 1000p and picked up the Zaino system (ZAIO, Z5, ZFX) in a trade; now I regret both acquisitions, especially after finding out about Zaino's water-etching issues only AFTER I agreed to the trade.

The trials and tribulations of a noob!
Click to expand...
All you did with the new layers was seal in the contamination. Unless you use some type of abrasive or chemical cleaner you wont get the film off.
 
The only thing I've found that comes in a tub that holds up to winter / snow / salt / around here is Synergy. Applied it before the snow and just did a wash with McKees 37 rinseless & beading is legit on the bottom of lowest panels.

In order to see what is going on - you have to wash with some wash product that leaves nothing behind - then recheck the beading with a hose or whatever. If the car is dirty - lower panels will not bead because traffic film / dirt isn't hydrophobic. You have to remove the dirt first to see.

Applied another coat of Synergy - cuz why not?
 
swanicyouth said:
The only thing I've found that comes in a tub that holds up to winter / snow / salt / around here is Synergy. Applied it before the snow and just did a wash with McKees 37 rinseless & beading is legit on the bottom of lowest panels.

In order to see what is going on - you have to wash with some wash product that leaves nothing behind - then recheck the beading with a hose or whatever. If the car is dirty - lower panels will not bead because traffic film / dirt isn't hydrophobic. You have to remove the dirt first to see.

Applied another coat of Synergy - cuz why not?
Click to expand...

What can you use to remove the contamination without removing the lsp that's the big question. I used total auto wash at like 10/1 last week and that seemed to work.
 
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