Swirls need some help.....

OChallenger

OChallenger

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So I consider myself to be fairly knowledgeable but maybe I was wrong lol. I just bought a new mustang, grabber blue, had 10 miles on it but thanks to the love and care of the dealership cleaning crew it has webbing scratches all over it.

I used SSR2.5 with a white polishing pad, SSR1, PwS, black hole, ex-p, black light, Natty's blue and Pete's 53. I know I'm crazy lol

But the scratches remain and can really just be seen in certain light. Soooooo, that leads to my question. What is a simple product I can use to get rid of the remaining few swirls??

Thanks
 
Without seeing the defects I'd say move up to a more aggressive pad and see what that does for you.
If no change try the UC using the orange pad then polish it with a fine polish and protect.

The UC works very well and you can pick some up today if you wanted.
It finishes down very, very well:)

Always work a 2x2 foot area to see what it will take to remove the defects.
Worst feeling is when you work the entire car over only to find you'll have to do it again.
What machine are you using?
 
I'm curious to why you kept stepping to finer products and waxes if the swirls weren't removed? You can usually tell if there's swirls before you do your final wax...
 
I agree but lets see if we can help him in removing them:dblthumb2:
He's right you know, if something isn't work then you work yourself up using something more aggressive , could be a pad, product or both.



greatwhitenorth said:
I'm curious to why you kept stepping to finer products and waxes if the swirls weren't removed? You can usually tell if there's swirls before you do your final wax...
Click to expand...
 
PB black hole should have filled it unless they're pretty bad, but the CG black light is an all in one that would have taken it up I think. OP, do you want them gone through polishing, or just covered up?

Pics would definitely help with diagnosis, but knowing your machine will help with recommendations. I agree with hateswirls, if you're chomping at the bit to get on it, meguiars UC is a fine recommendation. If you need more cut and can wait, order up a bottle of Wolfgang Uber Compound. It can remove pretty heavy defects with just a white pad. I've actually done that by hand, though I don't recommend that for a whole car, LOL.
 
I want them gone, not just covered up. I didnt want to go to a cutting pad with ssr2.5 in fear of micro marring and having to clean that up as well.

I know I could have not finished it out, but its a couple times a month driver, and when i got it i wanted it shined, knew i could take more time later to do a full on swirl remove/detail

Using PC7424
 
OChallenger said:
I want them gone, not just covered up. I didnt want to go to a cutting pad with ssr2.5 in fear of micro marring and having to clean that up as well.

I know I could have not finishthat article doesed it out, but its a couple times a month driver, and when i got it i wanted it shined, knew i could take more time later to do a full on swirl remove/detail

Using PC7424
Click to expand...


That's the older PC, correct? Smaller diameter thin pads, no bigger than 5.5" max. The more pads the better. There's an article Mike wrote about the older generation PC and how to get the most out of it. That article will do a much better job of explaining why small, dry, thin pads are key to correcting the paint with that older machine.


Honestly, I don't think you'll need to worry about micro marring, that machine doesn't have enough butt to do that to a domestic auto maker's paint. This is a big generalization, but the domestic auto makers by and large don't use the softer paint systems.


I have an old PC as well, and it is a good tool and will work to get to your goal, but pad and product selection are going to be very important to getting you to your expectation and not having to spend days trying to get there.
 
aim4squirrels said:
That's the older PC, correct? Smaller diameter thin pads, no bigger than 5.5" max. The more pads the better. There's an article Mike wrote about the older generation PC and how to get the most out of it. That article will do a much better job of explaining why small, dry, thin pads are key to correcting the paint with that older machine.


Honestly, I don't think you'll need to worry about micro marring, that machine doesn't have enough butt to do that to a domestic auto maker's paint. This is a big generalization, but the domestic auto makers by and large don't use the softer paint systems.


I have an old PC as well, and it is a good tool and will work to get to your goal, but pad and product selection are going to be very important to getting you to your expectation and not having to spend days trying to get there.
Click to expand...

Good deal! Do you have a link to the article?

Currently I use the 5.5" (I believe) LC pads

Will snap some pics today as well
 
I cant seem to get any good pics, but the swirls are light and only can be seen at certain angles in the sun (cloudy here today)
 
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