Is this over kill?

[VsAutoDetailing]

First thanks in advance! I'm trying to come up with a plan of attack in a job I have coming up... But this is more of a general question. Is using fg400 followed with sonax nano polish 3/6, is that going to remove too much clear coat I know all paints are different but I was just wondering and I value your guys opinion thank you

[Evan.J]

Since factory clear is very thin to begin with why not do the test spot first and let that determine what your plan if attack should be?

Why start so aggressive when you may not need to? The idea is to remove the least amount or paint possible to get the job done and save as much paint as you can.

Sure the FG400 will remove all the defects in most cases but at the same time what is that paint only needed something like PF2500 or less to remove those defects? Additionally doing your get spot might even save you extra steps which saves time and time is money of course.

[tuscarora dave]

Do a test section using the 3/6 first when you have the car in front of you and see what kind of results that gets you. If the 3/6 yields you satisfactory results then you know throwing the 400 in there first would have been over kill. That's the only way your question can be answered, by testing the least aggressive method first on the actual vehicle's paint.

[VsAutoDetailing]

I agree... I'm just an over thinker lol I'm saying I start with the least aggressive but the paint is totally thrashed if that makes any sense I just like to plan for the worst case scenario

[Flash Gordon]

You'll be fine if using DA

[tuscarora dave]

I agree... I'm just an over thinker lol I'm saying I start with the least aggressive but the paint is totally thrashed if that makes any sense I just like to plan for the worst case scenario

Planning for the worst case scenario is simply having the more aggressive cutter on hand in case your swirl remover doesn't cut it well enough.

What year, make, model and color is the vehicle in question? When soliciting general advice on a specific job, the more info you can add to the thread will increase the chances of getting better info back from the forum members.

Either way actual testing is going to be what dictates your plan of attack, but experience would tell me that a thrashed out Chrysler 300 in most cases is going to need a much more aggressive approach than a thrashed Mazda Miata etc.

I had to come back and edit.. adding the bold print to "in most cases" because Chrysler paint is typically on the hard side, but who's to say this particular 300 hasn't been repainted at one time with a much softer clear coat used? Actual testing on the car will tell the story of what needs to be done, every time.

Of course the Chrysler 300 is just a hypothetical model I came up with to make a point.