Reload Looks Greasy

D

dan45hk

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So I applied CQuartz about a month ago, then several weeks after I applied Reload. I used it sparingly and wiped off the residue. Well tried to wipe off the residue, all it does is smear. So I waited a few weeks, washed the car and it was fine. Tried to apply Reload again and even places where the paint looks ok if you wipe a microfiber over it more smears will occur. On the first application it still smeared after over a week in the sun. What's going on here? The car is black so the effect is probably much easier to see on darker colors.
 
It's recommended to use Eraser or IPA to remove the Reload on the affected areas; then reapply. You could try that, if you want.
__________________________________________________

-Different people seem to have as many different reasons of using this Sealant on top of various brands of Coatings...including those of CQuartz.

-So...If I may ask:
What persuaded you to use Reload on top of this vehicle's particular CQuartz Coating---after just one month from its application date---or ever, for that matter?


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
It's recommended to use Eraser or IPA to remove the Reload on the affected areas; then reapply. You could try that, if you want.
__________________________________________________

-Different people seem to have as many different reasons of using this Sealant on top of various brands of Coatings...including those of CQuartz.

-So...If I may ask:
What persuaded you to use Reload on top of this vehicle's particular CQuartz Coating---after just one month from its application date---or ever, for that matter?


Bob
Click to expand...


After waiting a few weeks and washing the car the problem areas were gone, they came back after the next application. The reason I used reload is the paint didn't feel slick or have the wet look I was looking for with just CQuartz.
 
With cquartz you were supposed to have slick paint. Did you do an IPA wiped own or Eraser before applying the CQ? When you apply CQ you have to buff off any leftover spots a few minutes after. The Reload is supposed to be applied within an hour after application of CQ. I did CQUK 2014 today and the paint was like butter.
 
GenesisCoupe said:
With cquartz you were supposed to have slick paint. Did you do an IPA wiped own or Eraser before applying the CQ? When you apply CQ you have to buff off any leftover spots a few minutes after. The Reload is supposed to be applied within an hour after application of CQ. I did CQUK 2014 today and the paint was like butter.
Click to expand...

Yes did a very thorough IPA wipedown... not sure why but I've read others on here also had the same problem, the paint didn't feel slick at all. I followed the directions with how soon to wipe it off, used the suede microfibers also.
 
dan45hk said:
After waiting a few weeks and washing the car the problem areas were gone, they came back after the next application. The reason I used reload is the paint didn't feel slick or have the wet look I was looking for with just CQuartz.
Click to expand...
Sorry that it wound up greasy instead.
Hope you find that:
Eraser/IPA offers a peace-ful solution.


Bob "Bowzer" Bauman
 
I had the same problem. Luckily I only did s small spot so it wasn't to bad. Email Cory at CarPro he will help you out.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
GenesisCoupe said:
With cquartz you were supposed to have slick paint. Did you do an IPA wiped own or Eraser before applying the CQ? When you apply CQ you have to buff off any leftover spots a few minutes after. The Reload is supposed to be applied within an hour after application of CQ. I did CQUK 2014 today and the paint was like butter.
Click to expand...

I don't see anything on the AGO or CarPro website that indicates this.



You might be thinking of CGTechniq C1 followed by EXO2

• When applying over C1, this should be done between 3 and 12 hours after completing the C1 application, depending on the environment temperature and conditions
 
what color vehicle u got ? reload can be diluted with di water to aid in that excess/streaky/greasy look . 1 part reload to .5/.7 part water.need very little reload applied to panel 1 spray per 3sq feet. use short weave mf to buff. . these are tips from Corey .
I just cquk'd a week ago and had no trouble with reload .
 
I mean i know that CQUK is supposed to be slick, but i also know that Opti-Coat is not slick, but Reload makes it slick.

The CQUK i've been using is a 2014 version; do you know what version yours was?
 
GenesisCoupe said:
I mean i know that CQUK is supposed to be slick, but i also know that Opti-Coat is not slick, but Reload makes it slick.

The CQUK i've been using is a 2014 version; do you know what version yours was?
Click to expand...

Looks like the "Original Version" was introduced Summer of 2012 and "Rev2" followed Winter of 2014.

I believe there is a "New" version of Reload. Not positive.
 
One criteria that I have for any product in my detailing bag of tricks is that the product must provide consistent results every time in all conditions on any color. Where I live the weather conditions can swing wildly from day to day. Now I'll admit there aren't a lot of products that meet that requirement for me but it makes life a lot easier.

I've never been able to get reload to provide me the consistent results I want even on identically prepared cars I own. It's a great product but I've since gone to using HydrO2 which for me is not only easier and faster to apply, but it produces consistent results whether over coatings or non coatings.
 
Strange how, (over such a relatively short period of time), some "Coating-Chemists" have, or have not, reacted in order to stave off what I'll refer to as: The maddening rush...of people desiring to top their Coatings...

Who among them, but Dr. Bailey, of Duragloss fame, is still sticking to their guns to not top their Coatings?

Is it a foregone conclusion that:
There's just too Mucho Money to be made,
in them thar "toppings"?

Are some technological advances in car-care products doomed to forever be: Covered up, so to say?

If so: Forward HO!!
Just don't count me in...as part of that wagon train.


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Strange how, (over such a relatively short period of time), some "Coating-Chemists" have, or have not, reacted in order to stave off what I'll refer to as: The maddening rush...of people desiring to top their Coatings...

Who among them, but Dr. Bailey, of Duragloss fame, is still sticking to their guns to not top their Coatings?

Is it a foregone conclusion that:
There's just too Mucho Money to be made,
in them thar "toppings"?

Are some technological advances in car-care products doomed to forever be: Covered up, so to say?

If so: Forward HO!!
Just don't count me in...as part of that wagon train.


Bob
Click to expand...

Well I agree with you when it comes to topping a coating with wax. Personally I think that defeats the purpose. However, when it comes to topping a coating with reload after a few weeks of the coating application I think that's a good idea. Reason being is because the reload has silica in it which is essentially what the coating is made of. Now unless I'm victim of a marketing scheme I think reload is a good product to "reload" an aging coating.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
FUNX725 said:
Strange how, (over such a relatively short period of time), some "Coating-Chemists" have, or have not, reacted in order to stave off what I'll refer to as: The maddening rush...of people desiring to top their Coatings...

Who among them, but Dr. Bailey, of Duragloss fame, is still sticking to their guns to not top their Coatings?

Is it a foregone conclusion that:
There's just too Mucho Money to be made,
in them thar "toppings"?

Are some technological advances in car-care products doomed to forever be: Covered up, so to say?

If so: Forward HO!!
Just don't count me in...as part of that wagon train.


Bob
Click to expand...
Yea, I was a bit thrown off by that when I was looking into coatings as well. Why does CQUK require the use of Reload when it has been said before that you shouldn't or shouldn't need to top a coating. But for some reason CQUK requires it, and now that I have CQUK, I will follow accordingly. Hopefully the awesome properties that CQUK promises does not degrade as Reload wears off. I will be disappointed then. Otherwise, Reload and only reload will be used on top of my CQUK, starting at the 1 hour mark as the directions of 2014 CQUK say.

Like you said, I definitely don't want ruin the benefits that a coating brings by topping it with something that hurts long term. I can only hope CarPro thought that through in regards to the required use of Reload in conjunction with CQUK. They are professional, so I'm sure they did. But certainly raises the questions/points you made above.
 
"Why does CQUK require the use of Reload when it has been said before that you shouldn't or shouldn't need to top a coating. But for some reason CQUK requires it, and now that I have CQUK, I will follow accordingly."

Where did you read or hear that Reload is "required" with Cquartz or CQuartz UK?
 
allenk4 said:
Where did you read or hear that Reload is "required" with Cquartz or CQuartz UK?
Click to expand...
While I was doing my research on CQUK I found that it was designed for use in conjunction with Reload. I also spoke with CarPro. And the label on the bottle of CQUK says to apply Reload an hour after the coating.

But a lot of it is just to help ensure no water marks while the coating is curing. Though it is recommended to reapply Reload every 3-4 months, per my conversation with CarPro, for optimal results and longevity of the coating. I think The required use of Reload is one of the differences between CQ and CQUK, but I am not 100% as I did not do nearly the research of CQ as I did CQUK.
 
The reload step after applying CQUK is one thing I learned to avoid...and yes the manufacturer does recommend you apply it after the coating.

However humidity, temperature, coating curing time, coating application...all play into when you should apply reload.

Sorry but that's too many variables to control and unless you really know what you're doing in terms how to interpret how coatings react... I like to keep things simple...apply the coating, park it in a garage and leave it alone over night. Then wait a week and do whatever you want .

I think the idea of applying reload within an hour after the coating is a reach and can in fact mess things up if any of those variables I spoke of aren't just right...and I learned the hard way. Nothing is more frustrating than polishing out a coating after things didn't go just right.

I've learned three things regarding coatings I've tried....prep is important , application is super important and I won't even think of applying unless it's at least 68 degrees, and finally....leave it alone after applying it for overnight if possible. If I stray from this I usually get lousy results.
 
i had the same issue of the paint not feeling slick to me after 2 weeks.
i mean the water was beading and sheething like crazy but just didnt have that slick feeling like wax. after applying the reload it was much better. i had no problem with the reload and my car is black. from what i understand you need to spray it on and wipe off quick and thats what i did. i had no smearing
 
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