Best way to clean water spots on glass?
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AutowerxDetailing
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- Apr 10, 2012
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Be careful with spotless on the windshield. It contains acids that will etch glass. For side windows it won't matter but if the windshield has wiper haze it *could* etch into the shallow scratches and make the haze appear a lot worse.
Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
Tato
New member
- Nov 27, 2013
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Ouch, I was so happy after encountering a product that works so fine like spotless... It's also safe on paint and and trim, so I wasn't concerned at all.
How are you using it?
My directions for spotless are to work with the car still wet. See if that solve your issue:
Tools Needed:
.Spotless
.A Microfiber Applicator (that rectangular one works great)
.A low nap Microfiber Towel (I like them better for glass).
- Work a glass at a time, don't go crazy spraying throughout everything. Windshield / Rear window I divide into 2 sections, are enough.
- After final rinsing a wash,
Shake bottle well, spray it (3-4 pumps evenly distributed on surface).
- Immediately grab the MF applicator and first spread it fast over whole glass you're working, then immediately start working it back and forth, up and down, exerting firm pressure on the applicator, moving your hand on speed of light (in resume, Elbow Grease).
Pressure is not as important as working the product even and fast moving.
Get advantage of the moment you're using it to remove the difficult parts that are the corners of glass. The MF applicator allows you to fully work product on virtually any glass (I never found a problem).
On the first 3-4 scrubs, you'll feel something like 'harsh' (more if glass has more waterspots), and then you'll start feeling it smoothing.
This whole process is to take about 1 minute elbow grease on a window.
Immediately, grab the MF towel which is important to be DRY, and REMOVE all spotless residue.
The glass will look very clean, now immediately grab the water hose and spray it (shower type rinses it better IMO) rinsing thoroughly.
If product worked correctly, glass should look totally and EVENLY wet, water will 'stick totally' to it.
Repeat process on other glass.
One Tip: Beware with overspray! Whenever you already worked one glass, you'll notice that it becomes more prone to overspray (I can't explain why).
It's easy to notice, once you overspray the wrong glass you'll see product trying to react again.
Solution*!: Rinse again or even wipe off then rinse again.
Best Practice*: After rinsing one glass, I briefly re-rinse the others already worked to avoid residual product.
After spotless, I like to follow with claying. Glass should look almost perfect (perfect to many people standards).
The 'cat's meow' now is to use a cleansing polish like Pinnacle Black Label Surface cleansing, it takes little product and lightly as a finishing pad, you're not polishing the glass, just deeply cleansing it. Spread it in 3 passes and remove for really spotless glass. (you can use many other polishes but I prefer a cleansing one).
Cherry on top, Apply a layer of Pinnacle Black Label Surface / Glass Coating, and you're good to go.
Again, I'm sorry if explanation above seems obvious, I've shared the way I use because I never found a problem, just great results from it.
Let me know if that helps,
Kind Regards.
How are you using it?
My directions for spotless are to work with the car still wet. See if that solve your issue:
Tools Needed:
.Spotless
.A Microfiber Applicator (that rectangular one works great)
.A low nap Microfiber Towel (I like them better for glass).
- Work a glass at a time, don't go crazy spraying throughout everything. Windshield / Rear window I divide into 2 sections, are enough.
- After final rinsing a wash,
Shake bottle well, spray it (3-4 pumps evenly distributed on surface).
- Immediately grab the MF applicator and first spread it fast over whole glass you're working, then immediately start working it back and forth, up and down, exerting firm pressure on the applicator, moving your hand on speed of light (in resume, Elbow Grease).
Pressure is not as important as working the product even and fast moving.
Get advantage of the moment you're using it to remove the difficult parts that are the corners of glass. The MF applicator allows you to fully work product on virtually any glass (I never found a problem).
On the first 3-4 scrubs, you'll feel something like 'harsh' (more if glass has more waterspots), and then you'll start feeling it smoothing.
This whole process is to take about 1 minute elbow grease on a window.
Immediately, grab the MF towel which is important to be DRY, and REMOVE all spotless residue.
The glass will look very clean, now immediately grab the water hose and spray it (shower type rinses it better IMO) rinsing thoroughly.
If product worked correctly, glass should look totally and EVENLY wet, water will 'stick totally' to it.
Repeat process on other glass.
One Tip: Beware with overspray! Whenever you already worked one glass, you'll notice that it becomes more prone to overspray (I can't explain why).
It's easy to notice, once you overspray the wrong glass you'll see product trying to react again.
Solution*!: Rinse again or even wipe off then rinse again.
Best Practice*: After rinsing one glass, I briefly re-rinse the others already worked to avoid residual product.
After spotless, I like to follow with claying. Glass should look almost perfect (perfect to many people standards).
The 'cat's meow' now is to use a cleansing polish like Pinnacle Black Label Surface cleansing, it takes little product and lightly as a finishing pad, you're not polishing the glass, just deeply cleansing it. Spread it in 3 passes and remove for really spotless glass. (you can use many other polishes but I prefer a cleansing one).
Cherry on top, Apply a layer of Pinnacle Black Label Surface / Glass Coating, and you're good to go.
Again, I'm sorry if explanation above seems obvious, I've shared the way I use because I never found a problem, just great results from it.
Let me know if that helps,
Kind Regards.
brondondolon
New member
- Nov 12, 2013
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Dont let nicks comment scare you. Ive used spotless countless times and its hands down one of the best water spot removers ive used and ive never had a problem.
For really bad water spots here is my method
-Saturate the area with spotless and spray a foam wax applicator pad with the spotless as well.
-Rub the applicator on the spots working about a 1'x1' area at a time.
-Do this for about 10-20 seconds on a cool window in the shade
-Using a hose without a nozzle run the water on the window to rinse away the spotless
-Spray with clay lube and using a nanoskin (fine) sponge work the area
-Rinse and dry then examine.
-If water spots are still visible then repeat.
This method is for very bad water spots. Spotless should be enough but just in case it isnt this method is very efficient
For really bad water spots here is my method
-Saturate the area with spotless and spray a foam wax applicator pad with the spotless as well.
-Rub the applicator on the spots working about a 1'x1' area at a time.
-Do this for about 10-20 seconds on a cool window in the shade
-Using a hose without a nozzle run the water on the window to rinse away the spotless
-Spray with clay lube and using a nanoskin (fine) sponge work the area
-Rinse and dry then examine.
-If water spots are still visible then repeat.
This method is for very bad water spots. Spotless should be enough but just in case it isnt this method is very efficient
goldenlight
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- Mar 25, 2012
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M105 or Ultimate Compound with your Favorate DA and light cutting pad.
beamerstrumpet
New member
- Jun 14, 2013
- 1,031
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Duragloss 757 quick cheap and easy.
Kitoy22
New member
- Aug 24, 2011
- 168
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Carpro spotless may be the most efficient way without the use of any polisher. But if you will go the polisher route, using a paint compound & polish will definitely work, but it just takes longer. Better use ceriglass instead with their rayon pads, very effective if used properly.
tuscarora dave
New member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,403
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This sometimes works, if it doesn't I add a few drops of Carpro Ceri-Glass to the pad and it makes quick work of tough water spots. If they're deep etchings I use just Ceri-Glass with a foam pad on a rotary and this works well. I know it's recommended to use a rayon pad but I haven't had to yet.
AutowerxDetailing
New member
- Apr 10, 2012
- 2,791
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I've used it countless times as well. I buy it by the gallon. Spotless is an awesome product. With that being said my warning about being careful when using it on the windshield is still true. It will not etch if the glass is smooth; however, if there is severe wiper haze it will etch the scratches to the point that visibility through the glass will be a problem.
Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
Rsurfer
Active member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,128
- 4
:iagree:I have seen water spot removers (acid) rainbow the windshield.
Tato
New member
- Nov 27, 2013
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Although I never faced this problem personally, I see it's potential and agree it's always better to be aware, safe than sorry.
However, many (if not all) products can go wrong some way, and this may not be cause for us to avoid using.
Earlier I was using paint polishes to remove water spots, work, hard to polish on edges and corners, and also using 'expensive' products like top of line compounds and polishes.
Spotless is 'Costless', goes where you hardly can reach with a polisher and can be done during rinsing step of a wash.
This saves time, but I even do clay and a light / cleansing polish to get surface even before protection. This step is just 'superficial', without the task / obligation of removing the HARD to remove by polishing waterspots on corners, in example.
There are many ways to do it, and not always one or only one will be the best option.
What I also learned in this thread is the possibility of working Ceriglass on Foam Pads, I have Ceriglass + Foam pads so I have another option to choose while trying to get the job done, smarter, not harder.
Kind Regards.