How to detail quicker

mbenzo

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I do auto detail for a dealership. This dealership is known for having very high end cars such as lambos, Aston Martins, fiskers.. etc. Also a lot of BMW's and whatever we get in on trade. I love detailing but I often feel underestimated being a female in this type of job. My biggest issue is learning how to be more time efficient at work, considering time is money, and I can't afford to spend 6-8 hours on a detail anymore. I don't mind spending all day on detail outside of work.. But lately I'm stressing out at work because I can't get enough done in time for a decent paycheck. Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated (:
 
Welcome to autogeek, as for your situation you will need to find products that get to your goal quicker such as when you clay bar a vehicle instead of traditional clay use clay substitute or if you have to polish a vehicle use a all in one. etc also one should know don't put all your heart, and soul into the work meaning don't go chasing every little spec
 
I don't know anything about the business but I would guess you need to go into business for yourself especially if you have experience working on those high end cars
 
I don't know anything about the business but I would guess you need to go into business for yourself especially if you have experience working on those high end cars

:iagree:
It's ok to work 6-8 hours on a car, as long as your getting paid on your effort.
Most dealerships don't even give a damn on quality work.
 
Perhaps you could benefit from understanding (I'm steeling this from Renny Doyle's book) "Perfection vs Profit," and not suffering from a plague that exists amongst detailers--"shine-itis." This is where the detailer keeps detailing to their own standard of perfection even though the customer isn't paying for it. Our passion to detail can lead us into inefficiency with our time.
He also speaks of being a "business" person first, and a "detailer" second. As a business woman, understand what your employer expects, and put this in front of your passion.
Of course, I may be totally missing the mark about your post, and am just projecting my own weaknesses and imbalances onto your situation.
 
Welcome to autogeek. I work at a dealership also, good organization and time saving products will be your only hope.
 
Examine your process on a typical car

How much time are you sepending on each step (washing, decontamination, drying, wheels, tires)?

Time yourself

Name sure that the steps/areas that are most important to your Boss are the ones that you are focusing on. Maybe you are spending a lot if time on things that are not important to the Boss
 
Your better off starting your own thing get business cards made and slip them in the cars. Then Once you get enough work you can quit.
 
Well I hope you don't mind my input. I recently did a full correction detail to 1 of my friends cars. It took about 4 hours from start to finish. EXTERIOR ONLY.

1. Wash
2. Nanoskin Sponge IMO quicker than clay. (I would assume a mitt would be faster)
3. Flex 3401 VRG IMO the best DA to get the job done the fastest...hands down.
4. Menzerna FG400 This compound works wonders and is very effective. Used 6.5" Orange Hybrid Pad Speed setting 5
5. Menzerna SF4000 (I use SF4500) IMO SF4000 is a great effective polish. Used 6.5" White Hybrid Pad Speed setting 5
6. Menzerna Powerlock Sealant it dries quickly and you can remove it real easy. Used 6.5" Black Hybrid Pad Speed setting 2
7. Used a foam applicator that the DA could not reach for sealant.

No door jams or other areas that are not seen...IMO why waste time for something that will be covered 90 - 95% of the time.

The car I worked on was a Red Honda accord coupe. Here are the pics from before, Mid (just finished compounding no polish yet) and then final result.

This took 4 hours. Some people may think I am on crack or don't believe me but so be it. I again, did exterior only.

I did this 11-29-2014. I think the type of DA helps significantly and the type of product...how effective it is in correction. Mine was the Flex 3401 VRG and Menzerna Products. The correct MF Towels are also important too. I use different MF towels for specific applications. I have a MF towel specifically for compound/polish removal and a specific MF towel for sealant/wax removal.

I hope this helps. BTW I do this for a hobby. This person needed her car back in about 6 hours.

:buffing:
 
Your better off starting your own thing get business cards made and slip them in the cars. Then Once you get enough work you can quit.

That is unethical in my opinion

I would fire you on the spot
 
Well I hope you don't mind my input. I recently did a full correction detail to 1 of my friends cars. It took about 4 hours from start to finish. EXTERIOR ONLY.

:buffing:

Not saying you didn't do it, but I certainly never have been able to accomplish that volume of work in that amount of time

Do you have any close-up pictures of the condition of the paint before & after correction?

Did you take any 50/50 pictures?

What % correction was your goal?
 
That makes sense, I know I take too long on interiors, but there's so many cracks and crevices so i think I take too long making sire I get every spot possible. I'm also a perfectionist so I know that doesn't help
 
That was to you allen, didn't know how to quote on here yet lol
 
I forgot to mention 1 important thing, technique is the most important thing. I know your technique is probably sound, however, most here on this site love more information to become better. I know I have re-looked at some of Mike Phillips videos also some on Youtube from different detailers. I am a sponge when it comes to learning.

I am always trying to learn how to improve my technique and IMO it's helped significantly. I remember working on my 1st full correction. Clay bar, compound/polish sealant with my PC7424 XP. Wow!! 14 to 24 hours!!

At one point I became very discouraged and was thinking maybe I should just detail my own car and GF car and that would be it.

But I have to admit this site and You Tube and Mike Phillips Book and Renny Doyles book have helped.

The Flex 3401 VRG with the Hybrid Pads reduced my detailing time to at least 60%! I use my PC 7424 PC with a 3" backing Plate and that does the smaller areas of correcting/sealant/wax.

Please do not be discouraged and just kick azz like you already do!!!
 
I forgot to mention 1 important thing, technique is the most important thing. I know your technique is probably sound, however, most here on this site love more information to become better. I know I have re-looked at some of Mike Phillips videos also some on Youtube from different detailers. I am a sponge when it comes to learning.

I am always trying to learn how to improve my technique and IMO it's helped significantly. I remember working on my 1st full correction. Clay bar, compound/polish sealant with my PC7424 XP. Wow!! 14 to 24 hours!!

At one point I became very discouraged and was thinking maybe I should just detail my own car and GF car and that would be it.

But I have to admit this site and You Tube and Mike Phillips Book and Renny Doyles book have helped.

The Flex 3401 VRG with the Hybrid Pads reduced my detailing time to at least 60%! I use my PC 7424 PC with a 3" backing Plate and that does the smaller areas of correcting/sealant/wax.

Please do not be discouraged and just kick azz like you already do!!!

I agree about the technique! The guy I work with actually just showed me a new technique today when buffing a black car, and it helped immensely. I know there's so many things and products to learn when it comes to detail so I want to learn as much more as possible. I have the PC 7424xp but haven't used it yet. I heard DA polishers don't remove scratches well. Is that true? I've only ever used a rotary, but I think DA polishers seem like they'd remove scratches pretty well.
 
Not saying you didn't do it, but I certainly never have been able to accomplish that volume of work in that amount of time

Do you have any close-up pictures of the condition of the paint before & after correction?

Did you take any 50/50 pictures?

What % correction was your goal?

I posted pictures on Post #9 on this thread. I had before mid and after. You can see the condition of the car and final results. I also explain my technique. I did reduce time by not correcting the bottom rocker panels and the front and back bottom bumpers. I just clayed and sealant. I skimped on those areas as they are not the areas that are not visible. Door jams and inside rocker panels included (no sealant at all just clean).

I really concentrated on the areas that are mostly in the line of sight by the regular person. I also put on 1 coat of Powerlock Sealant and that was it.

But IMO the Nanoskin Sponge, Flex 3401, Menzerna FG400, Menzerna SF4500 and Menzerna Powerlock make a huge difference too.

The biggest LET DOWN was when she saw her car. She just said nice job and that was it! I could have just washed her car and she would have said the same thing. She was definitely not a shiny car person and she indicated that she would be taking her car to the same "hand car wash" place....UGH!!
 
I agree about the technique! The guy I work with actually just showed me a new technique today when buffing a black car, and it helped immensely. I know there's so many things and products to learn when it comes to detail so I want to learn as much more as possible. I have the PC 7424xp but haven't used it yet. I heard DA polishers don't remove scratches well. Is that true? I've only ever used a rotary, but I think DA polishers seem like they'd remove scratches pretty well.

You are correct about SOME DA's not removing scratches as well as a rotary. However, there is 1 DA that is as good or possibly better than a Rotary and that is the Flex 3401 VRG. It is the ONLY DA on the market that is a "forced rotational" DA. It is "almost" as powerful as a rotary, however, you do not have to worry about the "hologram" affect that a rotary does when correcting.

No other DA can match the correcting ability as the Flex 3401 VRG. I know some will say the Rupes DA's can come close but in terms of correcting at a faster time (as you are on time) the Flex is the best.

Try that DA as well as with the Lake Country Hybrid Pads and that will help significantly. Mike Phillips has a book about the Flex 3401 and how to use it. I say get that book and the DA and you will kick AZZ and reduce your detailing time by at least 20 - 30% or even more.
Additionally, IMO Menzerna FG400, Menzerna SF4000 and Menzerna Power Lock will help reduce correcting time too. I think you would be better off with SF4000 than SF4500 as SF4000 has more correcting ability than SF4500. SF4500 is more of a "jeweling" polish. Remember...Time is money!!
 
Kamakaz1961

I saw the photos, but that type of picture is taken from too far away to actually tell what was done

The most telling pictures require the sun or an inspection light so you can see the true condition of the paint

I suggested a 50/50, because I think it is the most dramatic example of what was accomplished

That said.....you are much faster than me
 
Kamakaz1961

I saw the photos, but that type of picture is taken from too far away to actually tell what was done

The most telling pictures require the sun or an inspection light so you can see the true condition of the paint

I suggested a 50/50, because I think it is the most dramatic example of what was accomplished

That said.....you are much faster than me

But if I did a 50/50 shot that would take time away!...LOL I do skip some steps that IMO helps save time. The areas that IMO do not need correcting I just clay and apply sealant. The areas that I am mentioning are the bottom parts of the car.

But you are Much better lookin than me!! All the babes flock to you! I get no one!...LOL BTW, I have many other pics, however, I took the pics at night and my camera could not get the best pics.
 
Combine time efficient tools with the right process. Pressure washer (electric ones do just fine), blasts a lot of the grime away, quick engine bay cleaning. Nanoskin mitt or sponge as a clay substitute is a time efficient beast product, worth the price at any level of car cleaning. All-in-one products for polishing, there are some new ones coming out, or Meguiar's M100 for higher quality fast compounding for one steps if you have to tear through a lot of swirls. Play around with glazes too, Poorboy's Black Hole for dark cars and Poorboy's White Diamond for lighter cars are excellent swirl fillers. Utilize rinseless solutions for multiple uses - exterior and interior cleaning. Compressed air is a must for engine detailing and drying, interior cleaning, you can't go without this if you're looking for efficiency.

Keep your job location as a high volume dealership detailer in perspective. It doesn't need to be perfect so don't spend much time on any one thing. Blow the crap out the interiors with compressed air and spray down soiled areas with your safe rinseless solution that you can use on most vinyl, some leathers, exterior paint, door jambs, carpet, windows. I use Optimum No Rinse, there are some other great ones as well. Use that compressed air to help spread whatever you're using to dress the vinyl into where it needs to go, especially in the engine bay and in those pesky honeycomb type exterior grills. Extra microfiber towels are your friend. Buy a lot, use a lot, wash a lot. If you're not using an all-in-one polish and wax product, get some D156 from Meguiar's and that's your new last step product. Easy, quick, slight swirl filling, paint looks great - can't beat spray wax efficiency.

There are a lot of hacks in the dealership industry. They do a quick rinse down, they dry the car with an old chamois, they then proceed to use M85 compound without claying and spend 5 minutes over the entire car and there you go, outside is done. Then they proceed to go to the interior with undiluted degreaser and spray it all over the place and literally destroy the leather and vinyl and dress it all down with greasy crap and do a finishing vacuum and that's it, job done. Engine dirty? No problem, that chamois is then used to spread that nasty stuff they dressed the interior with.

There are ways to do it quickly without compromising the finish of the car like hacks do. Figure out the color light or dark, figure out after the Nanoskin step if you're going to go with Poorboy's Black Hole filler glaze, or an all-in-one polish and seal product, or something like Meguiar's M100 for a quick one-step and then wax/seal with Meguiar's D156 spray wax. This is going to depend on the level of swirls in the car. Extreme swirls you go with Meguiar's M100 and depending on how significant the holograms you create with that step you can proceed straight to D156 spray wax or do a very quick one over with a Poorboy's glaze with a finishing pad at low speed. That's going to give you acceptable results at a time efficient pace. Watch your back too, if you're not careful you'll end up with a slipped disc before age 30 like I did. Keep it straight and careful on the crazy contortion twisting.
 
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